Rear Main Seal Replacement
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Rear Main Seal Replacement
I have a bunch of questions here...
I think the Rear Main Seal is leaky... is there a way to tell for sure?
If I was to replace the Rear Main Seal... is it really a big job. From what I can tell it is dropping the Tranny, Bellhousing, clutch, oilpan...
Pop out old seal and put in t new one. Is there more to it?
Does anyone have detailed directions on how to do it? With pictures?
I can only get my car on jack stands with just enough room to drop the Tranny(I think).
Thanks for any help.
I think the Rear Main Seal is leaky... is there a way to tell for sure?
If I was to replace the Rear Main Seal... is it really a big job. From what I can tell it is dropping the Tranny, Bellhousing, clutch, oilpan...
Pop out old seal and put in t new one. Is there more to it?
Does anyone have detailed directions on how to do it? With pictures?
I can only get my car on jack stands with just enough room to drop the Tranny(I think).
Thanks for any help.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
From: Leander Texas
Unless you have an engine from a post '85 the trans shouldn't need to be removed. The rear main seal should be the two piece type. The steering linkage will have to be lowered, and the oil pan removed to access the rear main bearing cap so you can replace the seal. One half goes into the block the other half goes into the bearing cap. A Chilton manual will have pics, and instructions.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by DR.Jay
Unless you have an engine from a post '85 the trans shouldn't need to be removed. The rear main seal should be the two piece type. The steering linkage will have to be lowered, and the oil pan removed to access the rear main bearing cap so you can replace the seal. One half goes into the block the other half goes into the bearing cap. A Chilton manual will have pics, and instructions.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
From: Leander Texas
Originally Posted by genuine1980
I have an L-71 427... two piece would be great and much easier. But I am not sure if it is a two piece because I think the motor was rebuilt sometime in the 80's... should it still be a two piece?
Here is a pic of what it looks like, and when it is installed the seal will be in this position.
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...+Main+Seal+Set
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Awesome...
So with that said, am I looking at a fair easy job?
Get the stearing linkage out of the way... drop the oil pan... pry old seal out top and bottom... slide new seal in top and bottom?
So with that said, am I looking at a fair easy job?
Get the stearing linkage out of the way... drop the oil pan... pry old seal out top and bottom... slide new seal in top and bottom?
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: hawthorne florida
you should be able to take a small screw driver and tap the seal around the crank as it rolls out grab it with your fingers and roll it out the rest of the way to put the new one in just put it on the bottom of the crank and roll it back in just make sure that the grove in the seal is towards the front of the motor
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 3
From: Wellington, New Zealand
Easy job! takes about a hour but I must say that on a high mile engine the crank will be grooved where the seal has been running and replacing the seal will only last for a year or two before it leaks again.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 299
From: Midlothian VA
Originally Posted by mr303
Easy job! takes about a hour but I must say that on a high mile engine the crank will be grooved where the seal has been running and replacing the seal will only last for a year or two before it leaks again.
Abby Normal
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 53,460
Likes: 92
From: Press "2" for English
while i don't disagree with the others, there is no way i would go under a high mile car with a seal leak and not take fresh main and rod bearings as well as a new oil pump, which all works out because i would drop the crank so i was sure i did the job right.
but that's just me.
but that's just me.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Originally Posted by genuine1980
Get the stearing linkage out of the way... drop the oil pan... pry old seal out top and bottom... slide new seal in top and bottom?
Steering linkage should drop down enough just by unbolting the ideler arm from the frame. On a SB, the oil pump & pick up must be removed to gain access to the main cap. Not sure about the oil pump part on your 427. Your new seal should come with a shoe horn (plastic tab) that aids in sliding the new seal in without damage. Use it!!!
Eddie
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Well I'm not sure if I want to tackle replacing the oil pump and dropping the Crank to replace the main rod bearings...
I will be sure to inspect them both while I'm in there doing the seal though.
I will be sure to inspect them both while I'm in there doing the seal though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 299
From: Midlothian VA
Originally Posted by genuine1980
Well I'm not sure if I want to tackle replacing the oil pump and dropping the Crank to replace the main rod bearings...
I will be sure to inspect them both while I'm in there doing the seal though.
I will be sure to inspect them both while I'm in there doing the seal though.
No big deal if you want to swap in a new one at that point.
If you're adventurous and desire to replace the main bearings that too is pretty simple to do WITHOUT removing the crank.
You remove/change them one cap at a time and roll the bearing in/out/around the journal.
On the other hand, if you only have a leak I wouldn't spend much time replacing the oil pump and bearings if your only reason is "while you're in there".
You'll soon find out that the hardest part of replacing the rear main is getting the car up high enough to perform the work. After that, drop the idler arm (as pointed out above), remove the pan, oil pump, and rear main cap then carefully replace the seal as described in the directions that come with the seal.
If you're smart you'll replace the oil pan gasket with a one-piece gasket (search on that topic and you'll find part number/mfgr for that item).
When you buy your rear seal ask the counter person about the optional "offset" seal.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by Hammerhead Fred
You have to remove the oil pump anyway to replace the seal.
No big deal if you want to swap in a new one at that point.
If you're adventurous and desire to replace the main bearings that too is pretty simple to do WITHOUT removing the crank.
You remove/change them one cap at a time and roll the bearing in/out/around the journal.
On the other hand, if you only have a leak I wouldn't spend much time replacing the oil pump and bearings if your only reason is "while you're in there".
You'll soon find out that the hardest part of replacing the rear main is getting the car up high enough to perform the work. After that, drop the idler arm (as pointed out above), remove the pan, oil pump, and rear main cap then carefully replace the seal as described in the directions that come with the seal.
If you're smart you'll replace the oil pan gasket with a one-piece gasket (search on that topic and you'll find part number/mfgr for that item).
When you buy your rear seal ask the counter person about the optional "offset" seal.
No big deal if you want to swap in a new one at that point.
If you're adventurous and desire to replace the main bearings that too is pretty simple to do WITHOUT removing the crank.
You remove/change them one cap at a time and roll the bearing in/out/around the journal.
On the other hand, if you only have a leak I wouldn't spend much time replacing the oil pump and bearings if your only reason is "while you're in there".
You'll soon find out that the hardest part of replacing the rear main is getting the car up high enough to perform the work. After that, drop the idler arm (as pointed out above), remove the pan, oil pump, and rear main cap then carefully replace the seal as described in the directions that come with the seal.
If you're smart you'll replace the oil pan gasket with a one-piece gasket (search on that topic and you'll find part number/mfgr for that item).
When you buy your rear seal ask the counter person about the optional "offset" seal.
How high do I need to get the Car?
And I plan on replacing the Oil Pan Gasket with a new one piece... should the Oil Pan Gasket go on Dry or should I be using some kind of Sealer?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Originally Posted by genuine1980
And I plan on replacing the Oil Pan Gasket with a new one piece... should the Oil Pan Gasket go on Dry or should I be using some kind of Sealer?
Eddie
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
I was able to find a one piece Oil pan gasket... it is teflon though. Is this good? Will it seal without using a sealer? The cork one is not one piece, and they didn't say anything about having a rubber one.
Additionally I am getting new valve covers... obviosly I will be replacing the Gaskets... Should I go with rubber or Cork??
Additionally I am getting new valve covers... obviosly I will be replacing the Gaskets... Should I go with rubber or Cork??
Last edited by genuine1980; Oct 22, 2006 at 02:48 AM.