Keisler install questions/problems
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
Keisler install questions/problems
Hello all,
Well the temps in Phoenix have finally subsided and I am now going through the boxes of parts I ordered over the summer and I'm beginning installation onto my Chassis. I have a '69 SB coupe (original 350/350hp 4spd) car and am in the middle of a frame-off. I had the original 4 spd all bolted back in place to the rebuilt engine this spring but decided to opt for a Keisler 5spd instead. Unfortunately, by the time it all arrived at my house it was too hot to work in the garage.
I started back into it today, but have hit a snag already. The instructions ask that you test shift the trans and that the shaft should spin (like the original does). Mine isn't shifting properly, and I can only get it into a couple of the 6 positions. Additionally the shaft will not spin freely in neutral.
As luck would have it, the contact at Keisler listed on the instructions was out today and by the time I tried to get in to speak with anyone else they were closed. I really wanted to work on this over the weekend, but missed by 10 minutes.
Has anyone experienced this "lockup", and what did they tell you to do to free the gears up?
Thanks, Tom
Well the temps in Phoenix have finally subsided and I am now going through the boxes of parts I ordered over the summer and I'm beginning installation onto my Chassis. I have a '69 SB coupe (original 350/350hp 4spd) car and am in the middle of a frame-off. I had the original 4 spd all bolted back in place to the rebuilt engine this spring but decided to opt for a Keisler 5spd instead. Unfortunately, by the time it all arrived at my house it was too hot to work in the garage.
I started back into it today, but have hit a snag already. The instructions ask that you test shift the trans and that the shaft should spin (like the original does). Mine isn't shifting properly, and I can only get it into a couple of the 6 positions. Additionally the shaft will not spin freely in neutral.
As luck would have it, the contact at Keisler listed on the instructions was out today and by the time I tried to get in to speak with anyone else they were closed. I really wanted to work on this over the weekend, but missed by 10 minutes.
Has anyone experienced this "lockup", and what did they tell you to do to free the gears up?
Thanks, Tom
Last edited by chevy69; Oct 20, 2006 at 05:38 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Forked River NJ
The trans is pretty stiff when new. It takes about 500 miles for the shifting to free up and become smooth. Did the tailshaft spin freely when thetrans was on the ground or is it only when installed in the chassis. It will be a little tight anyhow just due to the tolerances. The old Muncy I'm sure has some miles and things are probably pretty loose compared to the new box.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
The trans is still on the ground, I haven't installed it yet. I'm just trying to make sure I have it properly moving before I install it as the big print is telling me in the instructions. Thanks for the response.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
Another issue is that I damaged the oil seal at the output shaft when I was removoving the rubber output shaft plug (it's torn). Any idea if that part can be ordered through NAPA? Is it a Mustang part? What year, etc...
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
It's the rubber "seal" on the outside that protrudes beyond the end of the tailshaft. I thought it was part of ther plug and tore a piece of the rubber. I guess it's OK?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,668
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From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Originally Posted by chevy69
It's the rubber "seal" on the outside that protrudes beyond the end of the tailshaft. I thought it was part of ther plug and tore a piece of the rubber. I guess it's OK?
I called Keisler to get a new one, they sent a replacement free of charge. It just slides and seats into the output shaft housing. Now that's what I call customer support.Bullshark
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by flynhi
Be sure that you have the new, revised design shifter. The older design rattles.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Bullshark
Don't feel bad, I did the same thing I called Keisler to get a new one, they sent a replacement free of charge. It just slides and seats into the output shaft housing. Now that's what I call customer support.
Bullshark
I called Keisler to get a new one, they sent a replacement free of charge. It just slides and seats into the output shaft housing. Now that's what I call customer support.Bullshark
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 159
Likes: 1
From: North of Boston Massachusetts
Originally Posted by chevy69
Has anyone experienced this "lockup", and what did they tell you to do to free the gears up?
I then ran it through the pattern a few more times (while it was still in the box) and tried it again. Same problem. I repeated the procedure one more time and it spun freely after that. I don't know what freed up, but it's fine now (although it's not yet installed).
HOOK-EM HORNS
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Port Aransas, Texas Tx
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Gordonm
The trans is pretty stiff when new. It takes about 500 miles for the shifting to free up and become smooth. Did the tailshaft spin freely when thetrans was on the ground or is it only when installed in the chassis. It will be a little tight anyhow just due to the tolerances. The old Muncy I'm sure has some miles and things are probably pretty loose compared to the new box.
There is a black plug around your output shaft to keep any residual oil in during shipping.
Remove that black plug and you will be ready to go. Be careful not to damage the rear seal. I used a pair of needle nose to pull mine out. We put the dexron in before installation and installed the black plug back into to keep the oil in. Dont forget to remove again before installing the drive shaft slip yoke.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 534
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From: Cookeville TN
Originally Posted by TEXASRANGER
... We put the dexron in before installation ...
Robert
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
The rubber plug on the end of the tail shaft is designed to be pushed back on to the shaft when you install the yoke. That is the other option rather than trying to remove it. That method also allows you to add your lubricant before installing the transmission.
http://www.corvettec3.ca/tko.htm
http://www.corvettec3.ca/tko.htm
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Robert Hall - Keisler Sales
... Did you get the tranny freed up yet?
Hi Robert - Yes, I kept at it and it is now spinning freely. Additionally it will now go into all of the gears. Thanks for checking in. Is there any way I can talk you out of a new dust boot to fix the one I damaged while removing the tailshaft plug?
JohnFromVentura - it appears that I may already have the anti-rattle assembly as mine is anodized blue.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2005
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Most of the time when your tremec feels as if it is locked in gear it was done in shipping. The 3rd gear cone slides up and gets stuck the easiest way to fix this is to take a clutch disc slide it up on the input shaft and turn back and forth.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 534
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From: Cookeville TN
Originally Posted by chevy69
Hi Robert - Is there any way I can talk you out of a new dust boot to fix the one I damaged while removing the tailshaft plug?
