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I am telling you. try the weld method first. the instant heat breaks it loose. then if it fails. use a center punch to break the easy out . redrill and tap.
I've been center punching the easyout to try and break it up... that sucker is not breaking.... I know if I can get it out I will be able to drill the bolt out.
I've been center punching the easyout to try and break it up... that sucker is not breaking.... I know if I can get it out I will be able to drill the bolt out.
Are you hitting it from straight up or are you going at it at an angle?
Are you hitting it from straight up or are you going at it at an angle?
I was trying both. I bent 2 punches trying last night.
I'm going to try some heat tonight... I have a propane torch, but I didn't try last night because I'm close to the fuel line... but I am going to using a cookie sheet from the kitchem as a sheild tonight.
I was trying both. I bent 2 punches trying last night.
I'm going to try some heat tonight... I have a propane torch, but I didn't try last night because I'm close to the fuel line... but I am going to using a cookie sheet from the kitchem as a sheild tonight.
If you have trouble with the punch again tonight I would seriously sconsider getting the car or the head to a machine shop. They will have it done for you in a few hours. If you know someone who's a sharp welder, let them try to weld the nut on it, but I fear the weld will break before the bolt stud backs out.
If you have trouble with the punch again tonight I would seriously sconsider getting the car or the head to a machine shop. They will have it done for you in a few hours. If you know someone who's a sharp welder, let them try to weld the nut on it, but I fear the weld will break before the bolt stud backs out.
Well the car is pretty much on jack stands for the winter... and i've already taken the pumkin down to do a rebuild. So the car is going nowhere until at least the spring. Also I REALLY dont want to take the heads off... I just wanted to swap valve covers and had no intention of making a project out of it. So I am wondering if this type of machine work is something I can have done at my house... like a house call. Or is it something that requires a large machine that the machinist cant bring in a truck.
Or should I consider the Bubba option which is to put the new covers and gaskets on without that bolt and hope for no leaks?
So I am wondering if this type of machine work is something I can have done at my house... like a house call.
Soem machine shops will make house calls, but you need to find someone that won't way over-charge for bringing a welder to your house. If they can get the truck close enough to your Vette they won't have to unload and re-load everything.
Make soem calls and see what you can come up with. I wish you lived closer...I have a few friends that don't mind carting their welders around town to help with odd jobs.
The welder must be an experienced welder though, as it's not easy to make a good weld on the inside it a 7/16 nut on a broken stud stuck in an iron head.
Soem machine shops will make house calls, but you need to find someone that won't way over-charge for bringing a welder to your house. If they can get the truck close enough to your Vette they won't have to unload and re-load everything.
Make soem calls and see what you can come up with. I wish you lived closer...I have a few friends that don't mind carting their welders around town to help with odd jobs.
The welder must be an experienced welder though, as it's not easy to make a good weld on the inside it a 7/16 nut on a broken stud stuck in an iron head.
Yea... I wish I could just get it out myself. I am kicking myself, because all I wanted to do was change the covers and gaskets because of leaks... I had no other reason to go in there because I just adjusted the lifters last winter and I didn't drive the car too much this summer.
I know other car ppl in my town with connections and friends in local shops... hopefully someone will call a favor in for me
Year ago I worked for Raytheon building radar antennas, and we had to remove lotsa stuck bolts, stainless in aluminum down to about a #4 screw size even, by welding a "dog-turd" onto the end of the broken screw, grabbing it with vicegrips, and turning it out. The welded nut works well too, but sometimes you are unable to see the object of you intentions well enough to get a good weld. I had to remove a twisted-off screw mounting the windshield wiper motor on my GMC van. It was in tiny, and in an accessability impaired location. Built up a turd with a few quick applications of mig wire, got it big enough to grab, and it spun right out. The intense high heat of the electric welder breaks all of the corrosion and junk free, helping to loosen the grip on the broken screw.
Welding the easyout will probably alllow you to get a grip and allow it to be twisted out first, and then welding the broken screw will loosen it and allow it to be turned out. Do shield that fuel, if you choose to use any kind of heat.
If you are at all concerned about your ability to remove this evil thing, definitely get with a machine shop before it's too boogered up, as it is easier for them to get it out now, as compared to when it is totally messed up.
I know other car ppl in my town with connections and friends in local shops... hopefully someone will call a favor in for me
Do you have any forum members close by that you know of? I'm amazed I live in town with at least two that I know of. Batman and Curtis73. I'm sure you have one or two there, and someone will be glad to pop by with a welder for soem beer and chicken BBq.
Do you have any forum members close by that you know of? I'm amazed I live in town with at least two that I know of. Batman and Curtis73. I'm sure you have one or two there, and someone will be glad to pop by with a welder for soem beer and chicken BBq.
I'm wondering is there is maybe a drill bit with some kind of hardened grinding tip that can grind its way through the stuck easyout.
I should sue easyout for false advertising and misleading information, because it didn't get the screw out and not the easyout sure isn't easy to get out
I ddin't read all your posts, but the way we get them out of motorcycle heads is to take a welding rod and "stick" it to the broken off or recessed bolt. Usually after a little heat around the area you can put a pair of vice grips on the welding rod and get the screw out.
I was able to get a drill bit that could grind the easyout.
I used it and ground right trough it and I have a big enough hole to either drill the rest of the bolt out or try another easyout.
SO tonigh I'm going to first try an easyout again, and if it seems too tough still I'm goinng to start with small drill bit and go larger until the bolt is out.
I have a tap to either restore the original threads and another to re-tap the bolt hole... this would mean an odd bolt in this hold, but **** happens.