I have a 76 with a stuck key in the ignition. I can start the car and it snaps back to run but I can't get it to turn back to acc or Off. I have to kill the motor by putting my hand over the carb and then un hook the battery.

I have been told by some that I need to replace the ignition switch. I have been told by another that if the steering column is turned either clockwise or counterclock wise that it will do the same thing. The column is a bit CCW but I am unable to turn it by hand back in the CC direction.

I would rather get some guidance here before I just start pulling the column apart. Anyone else ever have this problem?


Tim Sapp
RocketSapp

 

There is a lever coming out of your steering column under the hood down under the brake booster. It is connected to a cable that hooks to your transmission. When you shift into Park (auto trans) or into Reverse (manual) that cable shoves the lever to the full UP position. You can remove the cotter pin and wire the lever full UP to get going again. To fix the problem, you need to know what happened to the cable. It might have frozen up after all these years.

There is not much to adjust between the column and the transmission.

Here is a link to a pretty complete paper on the subject.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...tems27JL04.doc

Jim

 

Great paper... Thanks for sending it to me. I went out and checked just now and I don't even have a cable on there at all. I moved the lever up as high as it would go and it did not release the key. Tomorrow when I get off work I will losen the two bolts under the dash and see if I can rotate the steering column around just a bit. From the way the diagram looks I think the rotation of the column is stopping it from being set.

Again... Thanks!


Tim Sapp

 

Make sure you press down on the key release lever behind the ignition cylinder, too.

 

Unless the steering column has been changed, the key release lever next to the ignition key was introduced and used 1977 through 1982. His car was a 1976.

BTW, do you have a standard (non-adjustable) or a T&T column? It doesn't make a difference as far as the problem but there are slight differences with regard to disassembling the column (if needed).

I really don't know what trying to "rotate" the steering column will do. Unless something is binding and preventing the lever from going all the way Up.

The ignition switch might be misadjusted. You will need to drop the steering column in order to gain access to the two fasteners that hold the switch to the column. It is down under the dash on top of the steering column.

Another possibility is that the problem is in the ignition lock cylinder itself.

There is a rod that connects the lock cylinder to the ignition switch. (It inserts into the switch and push/pulls to make it work.)
When you loosen and disconnect the ignition switch from the steering column, you should be able to determine if the rod has a full range of travel or if the switch is preventing the travel.

The good news is that I have complete instructions on disassembly and repair of the C3 Corvette steering columns.

Go to www.corvettefaq.com and click on Jim Shea's Steering Papers. Click on Corvette Steering Papers in the upper right hand column. Scroll down near the bottom of the list.

You will find a section on the Standard Columns and another section on Tilt & Telescoping Columns. You will need Disassembly and Repair Papers #1 as well as the Disassembly and Repair Pics #1 in order to get to the point of replacing the ignition lock cylinder.

You will need D&R Paper #2 and D&R Pics #2 in order to drop the steering column and adjusting or replacing the ignition switch.

There are also scans of the 1976 steering wheel, horn parts, (and telescope lock) at this same location.
Jim

 

Sorry, Jim. I had a brain cramp...

 

Well, rotating the column was how one guy was able to fix his. It looks like my steering column us not setting level (it's turned a bit Counter Clock Wise) So I am in hopes that if I can turn it clock wise that it will let the lever go up just a bit more. If not... Oh well... I am that much closer to being able to disassemble the col.

This is a 76 with a T&T. I am not sure if it has been replaced or not. I do know it is not a stock wheel as it has a great looking wood steerting wheel.


Tim

 

Thats OK Batman... We all cramp up from time to time... :-)

Anyway I did go out and check to make sure my car did not have one. I could not remember while setting at the computer.


Tim

 

Yeah I know it was wishfull thinking that turning the column some would help me get the key out. When I pull up on the lever under the break power booster I can hear it turning under in the column in the car. However, I am still unable to turn the key into the off position. I did losen the two bolts under the dash and now the ignition is in the right angle (level on top) but it did no good.

So I was using the Diagram #1 and Doc #1 for the steering column off the CorvetteFAQ.Com web site. I noticed right away that someone else has made mods to the column since I do not have the Vega style steering wheel.

So I started to pull the steering wheel and was trying to get to the ignition switch to see what it looks like. However, what I am finding does not match what the documents on CorvetteFAQ.Com have in them. Below I am including a few pictures of what I did to get where I am.



Here is where I started... As you can see this is not your daddies vega steering wheel.



After I pull the Horn cap you can see the first three screws that need to be pulled. This let me remove the upper horn contact and the shims.



With the upper horn contact out of the way I gained access to the Start Screw being held down by the two phillips screws.



Once I removed the two screws and then the star screw I was able to also take the bezel for the telescoping steering off. This led me to the six screws that actually hold on the steering wheel.



I pulled the six screws and it left me here with this wonderfull unit. I pulled the nut in the middle but it will not slide off. I am assuming that I need to use a puller to get this off the shaft. It looks like I should be able to use the two bolts at the 1 and 7 oclock position to mount the puller. I just wanted to make sure that I was on the right path before I did something that breaks my car.



this is just another angle to show everyone where I am at now.




Tim Sapp
Frisco Texas

 

Yes, you're on the right track. Once the nut is removed use a puller to remove the hub. Note that there are matchmarks on the hub and shaft that should be lined up on reassembly. The mark on the hub can be seen once the nut is removed.

 

You are on the right track. One quick comment. All of the steering wheel, horn, and telescope lock parts that you have been removing were Chevrolet parts. Saginaw supplied just the steering column. So my D&R instructions become a bit more complete as you get into the actual T&T column.

Now you need a puller to remove the steering wheel hub. Next you will find a urethane retainner that will most likely crumble when you try to remove it. The D&R paper will give you the part number of the retainer so that you can purchase a new one from GM or from other Vette sources. Then you need to borrow the bridge type tool to compress the locking plate so that you can remove the C-clip.

This will give you access to the turn signal switch and the ignition lock cylinder.

Don't forget, additional help is only a computer click away!

Jim

 

BTW, your pictures are excellent. They really assist in trying to diagnose the problem from afar.

I have been thinking about your problem. As a starting point, when you turn the ignition key in your lock cylinder you are also turning a small plastic gear (called a sector). The lock cylinder "plugs" into the sector when you install the lock cylinder into the column head. That sector engages a small die cast rack. When you turn the ignition key on a T&T column from OFF-LOCK to START, you are moving the rack up toward the driver. So you are pulling on the rod that attaches to the ignition switch under the dash. With your problem, you can turn your key from START back to RUN and then something jams up. So the motion of the rod coming from the die cast rack is moving away from you when you go from START to RUN.

There is also an interlock designed into the system. The lever down on the lower end of the steering column MUST be all the way in the UP position before you can rotate your ignition key into the LOCK position. I understand that you cannot even get your key into the OFF position, but at least understand that there are other mechanisms designed into the column to prevent ignition key/lock cylinder motion.

It seems that maybe you should try to determine if the problem is in the switch itself (down under the dash) or if it is in the lock cylinder/plastic sector gear/die cast rack area. Tearing down the upper end of the steering column (when the problem could be in the switch itself) can cause a lot of work.

I think you would be best served to drop the steering column (making sure that you first detach the column down by the floor pan). Or just take the column out of the car. (Complete instructions are in D&R Paper #2.)

One of the first things I would check is the lower column lever. Make sure that it freely can move all the way UP. (Sometimes these things are hard to evaluate with the column in the car.) It is connected to a tube inside the column that rotates a bowl up near the column head. Rotating the lower lever UP moves the bowl counterclockwise (seen by the driver) and opens a gate inside the column and allows full range of motion of the lock cylinder. If you can free up the motion of the lower lever, this might solve your problem.

Next, you can release the ignition switch from the top of the column by removing two fasteners. Now you will be able to determine if you have a full range of motion with the ignition key or not.

If the problem is in the switch, all you have to do is purchase and install a new GM Adjustable Steering Column Switch and you are on your way.

If the problem is in the steering column head, you will need to pull the turn signal switch up and out of the column head so that you can release the ignition lock cylinder and check it for full range of motion. If the lock cylinder is jammed, you can try freeing it up with blasts of silicone lubricant. (Or purchase a new one.) If it is good, you are going to have to determine where your problem lies somewhere inside the column.

Jim