Radiator Swap
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 686
Likes: 0
From: Southeast
Radiator Swap
Hey guys,
I just ordered a new aluminum radiator from DeWitts with the dual SPAL fans kit for my '71 with a 350 and auto transmission. It should be here next week sometime (I'm hoping...I'm ready to start driving again). I'm going to try to post pictures and steps as there are so many questions as to how to do it as far as installing and wiring. This is my first time taking the radiator out of the car, so I would appreciate any tips and suggestions from anyone who's willing to give them. My main question is once the new radiator goes in, I won't need the shroud or anything. It seems like the shroud takes up a lot of room and helps direct the air throught the radiator. Will I need to seal the radiator up on all sides to keep it flowing through the radiator? If so, how did you do it? Thanks, and I'll keep you posted as I move through this project.
I just ordered a new aluminum radiator from DeWitts with the dual SPAL fans kit for my '71 with a 350 and auto transmission. It should be here next week sometime (I'm hoping...I'm ready to start driving again). I'm going to try to post pictures and steps as there are so many questions as to how to do it as far as installing and wiring. This is my first time taking the radiator out of the car, so I would appreciate any tips and suggestions from anyone who's willing to give them. My main question is once the new radiator goes in, I won't need the shroud or anything. It seems like the shroud takes up a lot of room and helps direct the air throught the radiator. Will I need to seal the radiator up on all sides to keep it flowing through the radiator? If so, how did you do it? Thanks, and I'll keep you posted as I move through this project.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Fubba
Will I need to seal the radiator up on all sides to keep it flowing through the radiator? If so, how did you do it? Thanks, and I'll keep you posted as I move through this project.
Yes, you will want to make sure the only place air goes through is through the rad itself. Most of the readily available Corvette parts catalogs will offer rad seal kits. Any other gaps you can be creative, and go to a Lowes or Home Depot or something and get some kind of weather foam stripping. The thicker the better. Just do what you can to block everything but the opening of the rad itself.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 936
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa OK
I don't know how well you can see from these pictures, but this should give you an idea of where all the seals should go. I used high density pipe insulation from Lowes to fill in the places the seal kit misses.
Unfortunately, I haven't taken any pictures of the seals between the radiator support and the hood, but that's also an important.
Hope this helps.
Unfortunately, I haven't taken any pictures of the seals between the radiator support and the hood, but that's also an important.
Hope this helps.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Originally Posted by Fubba
Hey guys,
I just ordered a new aluminum radiator from DeWitts with the dual SPAL fans kit for my '71 with a 350 and auto transmission.
I just ordered a new aluminum radiator from DeWitts with the dual SPAL fans kit for my '71 with a 350 and auto transmission.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
It looks like a fine job with a metal break and a drill press. 
You can have a set too! I sell them for $40/set and that includes all the hardware to mount a set of spals. The Be-cool kits will cost 4x that. The full kit (SP460) has them included.
The bracket is simple and the concept is simple. That is why I preach about the OE Hat channel design and try to create an industry standard for mounting accessories. Factory GM C3 rads uses them, Griffin uses them, and we use them. They are much stronger than two bend channels and if everyone used them, our bracket would fit every radiator.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Very nice indeed. Seeing as how I have a Corba fan to use when the motor swap goes through I will be using those slide-through-ties. I have five mounting holes on that fan, so I hope that will be enough to keep it secure against the face. Obviously I will use the neato foam washers to minimise vibrations and harsh friction.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 686
Likes: 0
From: Southeast
Next question...what holds the radiator support on? I've already got the radiator and fan shroud out. I've got all three bolts in each wheel well taken out. It still isn't wanting to budge. Is there anything else that could be holding it on? Maybe I'm just not seeing where it's binding.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Originally Posted by Fubba
Next question...what holds the radiator support on? I've already got the radiator and fan shroud out. I've got all three bolts in each wheel well taken out. It still isn't wanting to budge. Is there anything else that could be holding it on? Maybe I'm just not seeing where it's binding.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I will be using those slide-through-ties. I have five mounting holes on that fan, so I hope that will be enough to keep it secure against the face. Obviously I will use the neato foam washers to minimise vibrations and harsh friction.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I realize a lot of people do this but I wouldn't. The reason I say this is because you are actually "hanging" the radiator on the horizonal cooling tubes. These tubes are only about .018 thick and that fan package looks heavy. Why not fab up a couple strips of metal that hook over the top of the radiator and pick up a couple of the mounting holes on the fan?
I thought of that, and I might. The fanitself really is not very heavy. The frame is light, and the motor and fan are the heavy part. It's frame structure would make it very hard to fab up the brackets...I would have to make five of them.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 686
Likes: 0
From: Southeast
So after I found and got all the bolts out of the radiator support, I realized the two lines running to the A/C condenser are going through the support in the upper passenger side corner. My A/C works too. Should I just leave it alone at this point? I would like to get it out and get it painted, but if it's going to be some huge deal, then I would rather not. That beautiful DeWitts radiator will make up for it I suppose.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Fubba
So after I found and got all the bolts out of the radiator support, I realized the two lines running to the A/C condenser are going through the support in the upper passenger side corner. My A/C works too. Should I just leave it alone at this point? I would like to get it out and get it painted, but if it's going to be some huge deal, then I would rather not. That beautiful DeWitts radiator will make up for it I suppose.
If you dissconnect thos elines the system will de-pressurizem, and you will have to have the system flushed and filled by a shop. If the A/C works good and cold I would leave it alone for now.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 686
Likes: 0
From: Southeast
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
If you dissconnect thos elines the system will de-pressurizem, and you will have to have the system flushed and filled by a shop. If the A/C works good and cold I would leave it alone for now.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Fubba
I figured as much. I fixed the A/C last summer, and I don't want to do it again...lol. Thanks for the help.
When you say fixed, did you upgrade to 134 or are you still old school?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I thought of that, and I might. The fanitself really is not very heavy. The frame is light, and the motor and fan are the heavy part. It's frame structure would make it very hard to fab up the brackets...I would have to make five of them.