A continuation of "Bilstiens Ariived Today"

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1533395

Now installed on the front and took off the 6 month old KYB GR2's. What a difference....no more quivering...bobbing around, nose diving when you hit the breaks or bouncing around when shifting hard (hard as you can shift with a TH400 and a 308 rear gear )
Corners like its on rails, also installed new poly bushings on the sway bar. A firmer ride for sure, but good, not harsh!!! More road nose and irregularities telegragh through. But like I said it has better road feel, not harsh, and I feel more confident motoring around...

Now what to do with the back. Have an older 7 leaf spring, new KYB GR2's, rebuilt TAs, 1/2 Shafts and so on... Mark

 

I told you you'd love them. Now order a set for the rear and go with a fiberglass rear spring.

 

You were right!!! Thanks. Worth every penny...I was going to to a bigger sway bar. Now I dont think I need one...so I actually saved money

If I go with a glass spring in the rear will the Bistiens work?
Any recomendation for a glass spring??? 300 lb 330 lb 360 lb???/
Mark

 

I have VBP 360 and love it.

I had VPB 330 with Brand new Delco's and the rear was to bouncy. VPB told me to put Bilstein sports on but I changed the rear spring to a 360 and it was much better. Then I put the Bilsteins on and it was the best.

I have the 330 only used it for 300 miles, I would like to get $100 for it. I think I paid $280.00

 

Any issues with the height on the glass springs? Seems like the last 2 C3's I had aftermarket leaf springs and had to use 8 or 10 inch spring bolts to lower the car.. to 28-29 inches. Mark

 

Get a pair for the back....I have zero experience with fiber springs, but with a stock spring, mine rides nice....you will obviously see even better performance with Bils on all 4 corners...
(don't ya just love that "on a rail" turning experience!!!!)

 

Does anyone have any specific information as to the valving of the Bils?? what makes them so special??

frankly, I"d have a set, but 75 bux EACH or damn close is too much money for something that subjective....so question reamains...and I would think something more reasonable priced would be available....

I have the KYB on there now for 11+ years now, and I think the car is too rough riding, course I ditching the front 550? lbs springs first and going back to stock, ....

 

Yup, they're pricey, but I promised myself when I bought this money pit, I would not scrimp on what she needed....my mechanic (for some things I don't have equipment to do) raved about the Bils, and I threw caution to the wind and was glad I did...they changed the car sooooo much...maybe you can get specs at the Bilstien web site...

 

With the KYB (the white shocks) and 550lbs springs your front is rough and bouncy.... not a surprise, that exactly what I experienced. If you swap the shocks (get the Bilsteins, they're worth the money) and leave your springs as they are you'll be very happy

Your KYB shocks just cannot control the spring, it's almost like having no shocks at all.

 

BTW, you can get the Bilstein shocks 'custom valved' - vist www.stranoparts.com

 

The Bilsteins will be fine with the fiberglass spring, talk to the folks at VBP if they recommend the 'sport' or 'HD' shocks for their springs.
I'd buy the shocks first, very likely you'll be happy with the new shocks and your steel spring - you can always add the spring later....

 

I would order rear shocks (sport or HD) I was told the HD would give we to hard of a ride. HD was great if I was taking it to the track.

Then make the call if you need a rear spring. I had the metal spring from the factory, ride was ok, I hated the squeaking from the spring, I would grease it, oil it, etc. The squeak always came back.

Any questions you have I would call VPB. Great guys!

 

You'll want the Sports for fiberglass springs, the HD's will be too bouncy...

Doug

 

Have to get the rears, just get the same ones as up front. It should say on the box or reciept if sport or hd. I have the sports, and 330 rear spring. Old 7 leaf rode like a truck (with old adj. shocks that were shot), I changed both at same time, I am happy with 330 spring ( seems to handle best with 1/2 tank or more) does get bouncy when tank gets low.Night and day Diff. 100 bucks for speds spring sound fair though. Money well spent. Spring install can be a pain without lift.

 

DougD, I have to say my car does not bounce, it's solid as a rock till hell freezes over....but my main only complaint is the vibration and shock affect from going over rumble strips or crappy roads, plenty of that in my neighborhood....and so I"m burnt out on it....

the car is rock solid, but what I consider tail assed light in the rear, so I am going to replace the lower strut busihings which are about 1/8 inch worn after some years of use....judging from the offset on the right/left outer joints....
and put on a stock type rear sway bar with a thicker front bar...

I have a 360? VBP old fiber spring in there for years now....much better than any stock setup...but still too much road vibration...

and the front is WAY too much vibration/reaction to roads/bumps...so I am thinking to go back to the stock front springs, hell with it....regain handling a la Herb Adams....

 

Gene,
I have the 355-360# AO Smith/TRW spring with the Bilstein HD's and it rides great. I was skeptical as you are but the fiberglass spring with the stock shocks was too bouncy in the rear. The shop that installed the spring did tell me I would probably want to replace the shocks but I could drive it for myself first and see. They were right and I splurged on a set of Bilsteins. They are more than satisfying IMHO. They are worth the money.

-Mark.

 

I have same set up, shocks and glass. But watch larger sway bars or rear sway bars the can screw up transient handeling. George

 

Now planning on a VBP 330 lb rear glass/composite spring and Bilsteins on the rear.....no rear sway bar and stock fromt sway bar. Should wrap up all the suspension work for a while....
thanks to everyone fo their comments and advice...Mark

 

Hi Gene...

It's all about the ratio of jounce to rebound. The fiberglass spring has no self-dampening as a steel multi-leaf does, so it requires more shock.

I have 460 front coils cut 2/3's of a coil for roughly 500, matched to a custom 345 VB&P fiberglass rear, and Bilstein Sports all the way around. For bars I have 1 1/8" up front, and 9/16" GM out back. This combo is very neutral, and rides ok with street tires, though it's rough with the R1's that are on there currently.

This brings up tires Gene, and they can really add to harshness as well, especially the short 17's that you have. Old tires get hard, as the 17" Gatorbacks did on my C4. I just put new Sumitumo HTR II's on my C4, and the ride really improved over that of the old Gatorbacks (which still had some tread left etc).

I'd be careful screwing around with your spring rates, as the front and back need to match, and since you have a SB with a 360 rear, you should have 550 fronts. The problem with soft springs on the C3 is that there's no anti-dive/anti-squat in it's antique suspension, so without stiff springs you'll will lose high speed stability and braking performance. Soft front and stiff rear equals dangerous oversteer!

Maybe a fiberglass front spring is what you should try, as that should minimize front harshness without losing performance. If you're really worried about ride mostly, then be sure to change both the front and rear springs to base rates together etc...

Doug

 

I have been following your threads here and was also wondering which shocks (sports or HD'S) you decided to go with and why? I am getting ready to order some myself and would appreciate your knowledge.