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What temp does your BB run at?

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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 04:46 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BlackRat
Mine is staying steady around 210-220. I have a Dewitts BB radiator with the dual spal setup and am running a 190 stat using a 50-50 mix with water wetter. Right now I do not have the lower spoiler installed on the front of my '71 as I am waiting to order the indy style spoiler. Are me temps normal without the front spoiler installed? Will the spoiler make a significant difference when it is finally installed?

Thanks
BR
454
I run 100 anti freez in mine, jegs alm rad. and from warm up to burn out down the track to the pits it only gets to around 200 to 220 depending on the outside temp. Cools down pretty quick. Hope it helps. I dont have any spoiler, but even at speed I don't know how much that you cool you down. What temp are you wanting to get??
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 05:52 PM
  #22  
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All of my BB Chevys which are several run under all conditions at the 180 temperature level. None of the stock factory cooling systems have been altered or changed. The HP levels range from a stock 73 El Camino to a LS7 68 Camaro. Some are VC equiped and others are not and two of the 6 are AC equiped also.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 07:07 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I couldn't disagree more. Straight gylcol will AWAYS run hotter than a 50/50 mix or straight water. I have helped at least 100 people solve cooling problems associated with running straight coolant. A proven FACT is water cools better than anti-freeze and the higher the water ratio, the better the cooling. Evans coolant is a non-water product for serious racers. If you look up the details, they will tell you that you will actually run a higher temperature with Evans. I don't think anyone should run 100% anything. You need some form of inhibitor package to help reduce corrosion. I can't explain why you saw a drop in temps but right now the successful stories I have logged in are 100:1 ratio so I'm sticking to the 50/50 ratio until I hear 99 more people.

...and why would a 180 or 160 stat help a guy when he is already running 220? How many times must we post the function of a stat before it stops coming up in over heating problems.
I'm not disagreeing w/you. Just a few guys from Cal who run motor cross told me they run 100* antifreeze. maybe I misunderstood but I went to 100* and it works fine? I did add water wetter also maybe that helped. I also lost the point of the thread and was suggesting a 180 or 160 stat because I though the problem was over heating. Sorry I was painting all day & taking breaks to read the forum.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 07:36 PM
  #24  
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original radiator, driving in florida summer never about 210, in traffic. this time of yr might hit 195
454 auto with 3'08's
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 09:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tpi1986
454
I run 100 anti freez in mine, jegs alm rad. and from warm up to burn out down the track to the pits it only gets to around 200 to 220 depending on the outside temp. Cools down pretty quick. Hope it helps. I dont have any spoiler, but even at speed I don't know how much that you cool you down. What temp are you wanting to get??
Ok, then try diluting it and see if I'm right. I'll bet you drop 20 degrees
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 10:45 AM
  #26  
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I am a bit surprised here. I didn't think that running 100% antifreeze was something that anybody thought was the right thing to do. Try reading the label on the antifreeze. You have a guy here that makes radiators for a living telling you 100% antifreeze does not cool as well as 50/50. Here is info from the Water wetter website:
Compare
the time required to reduce the temperature of the
aluminum to 250°F, or the boiling point of water at 15
psi. Red Line with WaterWetter® required 3.2 seconds,
water alone 3.7 sec, 50/50 glycol in water
required 10.2 sec, and 100% glycol required 21 sec.
Water alone required 15% longer, 50/50 glycol 220%
longer, and 100% glycol required 550% longer.
see their page, lots of tech info:

http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf

And I will repeat myself: On a racetrack it is likely you will find drivers running 100% water (NOT 100% ANTIFREEZE), and the issue is not cooling, the issue is safety. Antifreeze is very slippery and they don't allow it on many racetracks!

Antifreeze also contains some antirust, anticorrosive (for aluminum) properties and lubricant properties that are important to preserving your radiator and waterpump. That is why 100% water is generally not recommended, but Water Wetter supposedly provides the anticorrossive and lubricant properties you need.

Last edited by PRNDL; Nov 3, 2006 at 10:47 AM.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 06:59 PM
  #27  
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Anti-freeze is just that anti-freeze it's not a coolant....Thats a big lie told to the public...Originaly designed as an anti-freeze then they saw that it didn't sell in the summer so they also sold it as a coolant.....Just put anti-freeze in one pot then water in the other n watch that the anti-freeze boils first......As for my BB I run a 160 stat with one of Toms radiators filled with water wetter n water using a #210 fan n my temps hover around 175..........Jerrylee///

Last edited by jerrylee; Nov 3, 2006 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 09:37 PM
  #28  
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For the last 33 years, I've used nothing but pure ethylene glycol in the radiators of my cars.

People who put water in their radiators are people who, after several years, replace their radiators and replace their heater cores. They write posts to this forum asking information about replacing radiators, heater cores, information about radiator stop leaks, and information about coolant flushes. You don't have to be worried about all this stuff if you use pure ethylene glycol. You don't want water in your gasoline, in your brake fluid, and I'd suggest not in your coolant.

Another great advantage of ethylene is that your coolant system is not pressurised. Ethylene boils at about 265 degrees F so if you want, you can open your radiator cap without worrying about explosive steam shooting out.

I think the professional race cars use polypropylene glycol. It's boiling point is really high (300-400 degrees F) and also it's not toxic. Ethylene glycol is very poisonous if ingested (it tastes sweet). Poly tasts sweet also, but is not poisonous. If fact Poly is a common food ingredient! I'v heard that ethylene is banned in Switzerland and people there have to use poly.

Ethylene doesn't have the heat transfer characteristics of water. Some cars are going to need water (C3 big blocks with air and copper radiators). If you can drive your car without water you're going to save yourself a lot of corrosion problems.

As far as I know, all the WWII liquid cooled fighter planes (P51's, spitfires, P38;s, etc) all used pure ethylene. It's not a new idea.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 10:56 PM
  #29  
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Redline claims that there water wetter provides a excellent corrosion inhibitor when added to water or a glycol solution....
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 11:00 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette

Ethylene doesn't have the heat transfer characteristics of water. Some cars are going to need water (C3 big blocks with air and copper radiators). If you can drive your car without water you're going to save yourself a lot of corrosion problems.
But, this point is cruical. When it comes to vettes most will need water instead of some .
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 06:52 AM
  #31  
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My stock 69 BB 427/390 runs between 200 to 210. When sitting in traffic on a hot day it might approach 220. I am using a 50/50 mix.
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 07:55 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Hammerhead Fred
Meticulously installed radiator seals (all of them plus the hood seal)
I know this is key w/ mid years as well. I rarely exceed 200F even idling in summer. I do run 100% water w/ 2 bottles of Prestone corrosion inhibitor in the summer, and switch to 50/50 in the fall.

I've previously used Redline Water Wetter in both 100% water and 50/50, but upon dissasembly I found red gooey deposits in and around the thermostat housing and coolant passages.

Mark
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 09:43 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by LS-Five
But, this point is cruical. When it comes to vettes most will need water instead of some .
That is exactly the point and I'd go as far to define most =99%

If anyone has a cooling system so robust that it works with straight coolant, then go for it. I just don't know anyone.

As far as water causing problems, it won't if you follow the directions. The inhibitor package that is built into the coolants will die out and stop protecting the metals. That's why they put a life term on these thing. IE 2 year or 5 years. If you use distilled water at 50/50 and change it every 24 months (regardless of color) you will never replace the radiator. The problem is, we simply don't do that. Everyone one of us has openned that cap, saw green, and put the cap back on thinking the stuff was still good. I have milk in my frig from last year and it's still white.
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 09:46 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I have milk in my frig from last year and it's still white.

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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #35  
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WOW!! Thanks for all the info guys! I think I have determined a couple of my problems.
1. I am running to high a stat.
2. I need to get my spoiler installed before worrying about it to much.

Thanks for all the input.

BR
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 06:37 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ML67
I know this is key w/ mid years as well. I rarely exceed 200F even idling in summer. I do run 100% water w/ 2 bottles of Prestone corrosion inhibitor in the summer, and switch to 50/50 in the fall.
This is exactly what I do. My motor might hit 200 degrees in traffic at a stand still but for the most part is in the 190 range
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 06:23 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bence13_33
This is exactly what I do. My motor might hit 200 degrees in traffic at a stand still but for the most part is in the 190 range
Hey Bence, How you doing? Nice to see you back on the forum.

[sorry for the thread hijack]

Mark
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