What temp does your BB run at?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
What temp does your BB run at?
Mine is staying steady around 210-220. I have a Dewitts BB radiator with the dual spal setup and am running a 190 stat using a 50-50 mix with water wetter. Right now I do not have the lower spoiler installed on the front of my '71 as I am waiting to order the indy style spoiler. Are me temps normal without the front spoiler installed? Will the spoiler make a significant difference when it is finally installed?
Thanks
BR
Thanks
BR
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by BlackRat
Mine is staying steady around 210-220. I have a Dewitts BB radiator with the dual spal setup and am running a 190 stat using a 50-50 mix with water wetter. Right now I do not have the lower spoiler installed on the front of my '71 as I am waiting to order the indy style spoiler. Are me temps normal without the front spoiler installed? Will the spoiler make a significant difference when it is finally installed?
Thanks
BR
Thanks
BR
Not sure what I have as far as a cooling system, but with 50/50 and a 160 thermo I run under 200 normal driving, and around 210 in summer heat driving over 90 for a prolonged time.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,876
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From: Jersey Shore Exit 98
Originally Posted by BlackRat
Mine is staying steady around 210-220. I have a Dewitts BB radiator with the dual spal setup and am running a 190 stat using a 50-50 mix with water wetter. Right now I do not have the lower spoiler installed on the front of my '71 as I am waiting to order the indy style spoiler. Are me temps normal without the front spoiler installed? Will the spoiler make a significant difference when it is finally installed?
Thanks
BR
Thanks
BR
You can also try a 180* or 160* thermostat
CF Community Team
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From: Cape Cod, Mass.
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My 68 427/390 runs about 180 on the highway and may get up to 210 in traffic in the summer. I sorted through a few issues recently like timing and putting the correct Vacuum can in the car. That had a dramatic effect on the cooling. The issues of radiator, clutch fan, 180 thermostat and coolant mix had already been addressed.
Water Wetter is designed to be most effective when run with 100% water. Minimal changes will be realized using a 50/50 mix.
Water Wetter is designed to be most effective when run with 100% water. Minimal changes will be realized using a 50/50 mix.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Burning Jet-A
As an aside here remember that evryone is running a little bit different here. Lean of peak or rich of peak Exhaust Gas Temp (AIRPLANE STUFF) has a big effect on performance as well as milage and temperaures. A guy running a lean car gets good milage, high temps and can roast a valve or two. Rich running cars smell, run cooler and get worse milage. Its important to apply a bit of science with the car, especially a big block to see what you have. Use a thermal laser temp gauge on the headers and make some carb adjustments if its not right on to locate where you are.
Remember that any performance increase, higher power for example means more fuel resulting in more BTUs for the cooling system to get rid of. An electric fan is the one augmentation that raises this transfer of heat in a huge way.
Remember that any performance increase, higher power for example means more fuel resulting in more BTUs for the cooling system to get rid of. An electric fan is the one augmentation that raises this transfer of heat in a huge way.
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
The front little air dam is very important. I also find with the headlights up the temperature climps.
I run NO thermostat and run into problems keeping the motor cool enough. On long high speed drives with NO fan turned on the motor stabalizes at 193.
As soon as I get into stop and go traffic I turn a fan on and drop to the 180 range. I do prefer the 190-200 range and will probably put a thermostat back in next summer.
I run NO thermostat and run into problems keeping the motor cool enough. On long high speed drives with NO fan turned on the motor stabalizes at 193.
As soon as I get into stop and go traffic I turn a fan on and drop to the 180 range. I do prefer the 190-200 range and will probably put a thermostat back in next summer.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,876
Likes: 1
From: Jersey Shore Exit 98
Water Wetter is designed to be most effective when run with 100% water. Minimal changes will be realized using a 50/50 mix.[/QUOTE]
I don't think that's true. Water Wetter like the other additives is designed to be addded to your coolant regardless if your mixing 50/50 or running straight antifreeze. Why would anyone run 100% water?? Where is the protection, the rust factor and water boils much faster then antifreeze.
I don't think that's true. Water Wetter like the other additives is designed to be addded to your coolant regardless if your mixing 50/50 or running straight antifreeze. Why would anyone run 100% water?? Where is the protection, the rust factor and water boils much faster then antifreeze.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: End of the Ike IL
Cruise-In V Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Originally Posted by capevettes
My 68 427/390 runs about 180 on the highway and may get up to 210 in traffic in the summer. I sorted through a few issues recently like timing and putting the correct Vacuum can in the car. That had a dramatic effect on the cooling. The issues of radiator, clutch fan, 180 thermostat and coolant mix had already been addressed.
Water Wetter is designed to be most effective when run with 100% water. Minimal changes will be realized using a 50/50 mix.
Water Wetter is designed to be most effective when run with 100% water. Minimal changes will be realized using a 50/50 mix.
I have the L36 (427/390) but I've not seen 210 even in the summer time. Mostly it sits on 180 or just a smidge above it. I run a Stewart 180 high flow thermostat. I flushed my radiator until it was as clean inside as out. Timing, every radiator seal, fan operation all taken care of. And I'm a believer in Water Wetter, too. Good luck with yours
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: NorCal
Like he said...
I totally agree with International blue, but would add the following:
The air dam is critical when moving at anything over about 10-15 mph. When I still had a stock radiator and fan clutch I added a 3" wide airdam made of 3/16 black conveyor belt to replace the missing toy 1" plastic piece. That one thing solved 80% of my problems. I run a 180 stat and a rich mixture on a stock 427/400 with A/C, and it ran 190-200 all day as long as I kept it moving. Soon as I hit traffic, off went the A/C and up went the temp!
That brings me to step 2. I installed a DeWitt direct fit alloy radiator and a single Flex-a-lite electric puller (I don't have the model# in front of me) that covers about 2/3 of the core and is controlled by a NAPA adjustable thermostat.
Now I have to turn everything UP to get temperature in the engine! I'll qualify that a bit because I havn't tried it when it's furnace hot (like over 95 degrees), but it's been in the 80's off and on for the past couple months and it's fine.
Hans
The air dam is critical when moving at anything over about 10-15 mph. When I still had a stock radiator and fan clutch I added a 3" wide airdam made of 3/16 black conveyor belt to replace the missing toy 1" plastic piece. That one thing solved 80% of my problems. I run a 180 stat and a rich mixture on a stock 427/400 with A/C, and it ran 190-200 all day as long as I kept it moving. Soon as I hit traffic, off went the A/C and up went the temp!
That brings me to step 2. I installed a DeWitt direct fit alloy radiator and a single Flex-a-lite electric puller (I don't have the model# in front of me) that covers about 2/3 of the core and is controlled by a NAPA adjustable thermostat.
Now I have to turn everything UP to get temperature in the engine! I'll qualify that a bit because I havn't tried it when it's furnace hot (like over 95 degrees), but it's been in the 80's off and on for the past couple months and it's fine.
Hans
East bound and down...
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 987
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From: Jonesboro Arkansas
I plan on buying a IR thermo gun to double check the accuracy of my gauge. I have a 500hp 496 and it never goes above 180-190 degrees no matter what and I am still running the belt driven fan!
I am, however, running a DeWitt's aluminum radiator, aluminum heads, all of the correct seals, and I also attached a 74 style BB spoiler extenion onto my factory styele plastic air dam to aid in cooling.
I am, however, running a DeWitt's aluminum radiator, aluminum heads, all of the correct seals, and I also attached a 74 style BB spoiler extenion onto my factory styele plastic air dam to aid in cooling.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,094
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From: Midlothian VA
My 71 BB w/4sp runs 180-190 idling in the summer heat.
Original, but recently cleaned, radiator
Stock water pump
New Air dam in place
Meticulously installed radiator seals (all of them plus the hood seal)
New hoses
Stock fan and shroud
180 thermostat
50/50 mix
No accessories - alt only.
Must be the side pipes that keep it so
Original, but recently cleaned, radiator
Stock water pump
New Air dam in place
Meticulously installed radiator seals (all of them plus the hood seal)
New hoses
Stock fan and shroud
180 thermostat
50/50 mix
No accessories - alt only.
Must be the side pipes that keep it so
CF Community Team
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From: Cape Cod, Mass.
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In response to Jim 79: I would not run a street car on anything other than a 50/50 mixture. In racing applications the greatest benefit from Water Wetter is realized when added to 100% water. There was a thread on this recently and as memory serves me the manufacterer chimed in and acknowledged that the product will have minimal impact when added to a 50/50 mixture. I have done this with no effect on coolant temps.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
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From: Brighton
Originally Posted by Jims79
I spoke to a few guys who race cars and they told me to use 100% coolant or antifreeze no water mixed in. They said it takes longer to heat then mixed so the car runs cooler. I did that and added 40* Below the combo lowered my running temp from 220* to 200* You can also try a 180* or 160* thermostat
...and why would a 180 or 160 stat help a guy when he is already running 220? How many times must we post the function of a stat before it stops coming up in over heating problems.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Originally Posted by BlackRat
Mine is staying steady around 210-220. I have a Dewitts BB radiator with the dual spal setup and am running a 190 stat using a 50-50 mix with water wetter. Right now I do not have the lower spoiler installed on the front of my '71 as I am waiting to order the indy style spoiler. Are me temps normal without the front spoiler installed? Will the spoiler make a significant difference when it is finally installed? Thanks BR
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 26,545
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From: Huntersville NC
Jims79, Is it possible that you misunderstood these race car guys? What kind of racing? At some dragstrips, depending on the type of cars, they do not permit racers to use antifreeze and insist that they run pure water. All tracks will at least insist on an overflow catchcan. The reason being, if there is any type of coolant leak on the track, antifreeze is very slippery and very difficult to remove from the track. So these racers may have been saying they use no antifreeze and run 100% water.
for example:
http://www.beechbend.com/Rule%20Book%20Section%206.htm
BEECH BEND RACEWAY
FRONT RUNNERS - FWD DIVISION RULES
1 .... 10...
11. No anti-freeze in radiator.
19. No anti-freeze in radiator. This rule is for all classes.
and rule # 1 : 1. NO fighting. In case of fighting, action will be taken by track officials. Drivers are responsible for crewmen.
for example:
http://www.beechbend.com/Rule%20Book%20Section%206.htm
BEECH BEND RACEWAY
FRONT RUNNERS - FWD DIVISION RULES
1 .... 10...
11. No anti-freeze in radiator.
19. No anti-freeze in radiator. This rule is for all classes.
and rule # 1 : 1. NO fighting. In case of fighting, action will be taken by track officials. Drivers are responsible for crewmen.
Last edited by PRNDL; Nov 2, 2006 at 04:22 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Originally Posted by PRNDL
Jims79, Is it possible that you misunderstood these race car guys? What kind of racing? At some dragstrips, depending on the type of cars, they do not permit racers to use antifreeze and insist that they run pure water. All tracks will at least insist on an overflow catchcan. The reason being, if there is any type of coolant leak on the track, antifreeze is very slippery and very difficult to remove from the track. So these racers may have been saying they use no antifreeze and run 100% water.
While I do not warranty 100% water useage, I will tell people will real problem motors to do it for a parade and/or race day. A few hours of straight water will not do any harm. I know a lot of guys that have two sets of coolant. One is a 50/50 mix and the other is straight distilled water and wetterwater.