I always wanted to own one...
so I bought a reasonably running old beater last year for 4k and started fixing it up...
and despite all the problems I've had, I keep saying to myself..
"Hey I love this car" ,
"It's so much fun to drive"
"It just needs a little more fixing to get it perfect.."
"I's an honor to just have one.. never mind the cost.."
"I'ts all worth it..."

but now I'm beginning to wonder and a small nagging seed of doubt has started to grow in my mind.

I've spent around 10k on it so far... and now this morning the damned car won't turn over.. I just drove it yesterday !!! and it drove perfect !!
It just clicks (Probably starter / solenoid) and after that there is no click , no sound whatsoever... dead !

so far I have done the following
- new engine 350crate - new radiator - new mufflers - new dash harness - new battery - new dash panels - new tires - new halogen headlights - new master cylinder and booster - new rear calipers - valve covers - new spare tire carrier - cat converter - y_pipes - new hoses - new original radio - new car seats - new pulley an serp belt - new door panels - new air filter assembly - new steering wheel - and the list goes on and on..... The body is perfect.. no flaws, no damage just worn paint..

leaving the paint job for last...

What the hell do I have to do to appease this beast so that it will just start in the morning and drive like the pampered biatch she is !!! goddamnit !
I don't lavish even close to this much care on my C5..

ok, rant over...


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UPDATE: see Post #38

 

Welcome to the wonderful hell we call c3 ownership.

 

Anytime you are working on a project car like that, you have to expect problems... don't let it frustrate you so much.

Sounds like either your battery's not charging properly, or you have a short somewhere that's draining it.

It took me 6 years to get my car to where there weren't little problems like that I couldn't pinpoint. You literally have to go through every bolt and terminal in the car, then when a problem comes up you'll at least have a few theories of what's causing it, making troubleshooting much easier.

Hang in there, it's all part of the game.

the blonde weasel

 

Remember what you bought....It's not a lexus...

 

Your car is 31 years old, you have to expect that. I totally understand your frustration, been there while working in mine. Hang in there it will be worth it!

 

I Hope you did not buy this with the intention of it being a daily driver. Stick to the specifics on hand and we can help get them fixed. Their WILL be problems and the car be will undriveable at times.

But its the best looking sports car hands down and your C5 knows it

 

I know, it's not a lexus
thank god.
I only buy american (owned 2 dodges, 1 cherokee and now 2 GM vettes)

 

If you have a Multi Meter, test the battery. Make sure it has 12V+. If it does, then test at the alt with the engine off. Make sure you have 12V+ there too.

Sometimes a battery can have 12V but not enough 'oomph' to turn the motor. Try jumping it. If it starts and drives...take it to an Oreilly, and with the alt in the car, have them test both it and the battery.

If your alt is bad, and can't charge the battery, then that's your problem.

 

I agree, I would look at the battery first. You can lose a cell overnight or even from one shutdown to startup. The alternator keeps it going so when you turn the key off with a dead cell you don't have enough umph to start. Have had it happen on more than one battery in various vehicles with various battery brands. If you put a voltmeter across it and it reads 12, crank it and watch the meter, chances are it will immediately drop to 8 or so. Dead cell is my bet.

 

Yeah, and I've even had a battery that was six months old lose a cell. Wouldn't start a lawn tractor but it had 12V.

 

This is actually the only American car I've bought, and I bought it for it's sheer look. Being a tall fellow (6'5) I have actually found Nissan's of all things to be the most generous with leg room, and japanese/european build quality is far and away ahead of American . My daily beater is a 1987 (20 years old!) Nissan Pulsar that I bought for $2,400 and has never given me no major problems in 25k miles. Fact of the matter is American build quality was very poor until very very recently (and I am assuming a lot saying that it is now on par with ***/euro build quality). Your car was built with people who were thinking 15 years in terms of life span, your car is now 30+ years old and you bought it bone stock for $4000. Pretty much the only way to make everything on the car reliable is to well ... replace everything in it. The last owner of my C3 replaced pretty much everything except for the suspension, so guess what broke when I went to pick it up

So in short, anything on that car that is stock, that you can afford to replace, replace it! It will break sooner than later I was also told by a few people that C3's were notoriously un-reliable, I'm sure you'll get mixed opinions on that though.

 

I would check the alternator and the battery. If you have upgraded some of the electrical items on the car...halogen headlights etc...then perhaps the alternator needs upgrading to help with the additional charge due to the extra current demand.

 

Yeah hang in there has nothing to do with a c3 its a chevy and they all have same engine/and other youll get it to be reliable just one of those rebuildt parts thing cant always get it right the 1st time cant get upset over the little things.

best regards

 

no def. not a daily driver.. maybe once a week to work (about 6-7 miles each way) and once on the weekend... what a sexy beast !

But I look forward to jumping into it and driving. You guys know what i mean and when it doesn't co-operate (well, you know how that feels)

and i'm sure if Mr. C5 could talk, he'd whine about not getting as much attention..


add==============
I put in relays for the halogens
(I read it on this forum . you guys rock !)

 

I had the click last week on Wed. Turned out to be a loose connection on the battery terminal. Tightened it down, the car fired right up.

Unlike the other younger vehicles used in the fleet at my house, the 76 vette requires a bit more monitoring of fluid levels, selected bolt torques, critical vacuum hose connections, etc.

But, it is my daily driver and I miss work if it is not running. 40 miles round trip, it is as reliable as the younger cars. I have returned it pretty much to stock condition (and may get around to updating the interior someday) to improve reliability. This approach has worked for me, but my specific goal was a daily driver.

 

Check and clean all the bat. connections be sure to check the negitive at the point it bolts on to the frame .

 

I had about the same problem only thing was that the battery was fully charged. Ended up being bad battery cables, both + and - . Replaced those and haven't had a problem since.

Right now mine is on the jack stands waiting on a new driver side rear caliper.

Mine's not a dependable car at all, but that is the fun of it, the everyday challenges.

 

My blue '77 Vette had a 50/50 chance of starting. It was fun I thought...wondering if I'd get to use my tow service.

 

just...

 

I tried that a few weeks ago when my truck came up lame. Now I'm doing a rear bearing replacement my 82. I think somewhere after 150K the rate of repair increases rapidly.