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Prepping my tops for paint and would like to remove the chrome trim.
In researching there seems to be some differences between years on how the chrome is affixed to the tops.
Mine have 4 rivets holding the side trim, the corner rivet also holds down a corner trim plate that overlaps both the side trim and that on the leading edge. The trim on the leading edge seems to be crimped on, I cannot see any glue but I do see 7 crimp points all evenly spaced.
Does anyone know if there is glue under either and if so how do you suggest removal w/o damage of the leading edge trim (that in front). I assume the side rail will come off after drilling the rivets.
I recently removed the front trim off my old tops. I had to use a 2" putty knife. Lay the top on it's top, work the putty knife under the trim and gently tap the putty knife. Work across the trim so you don't bend it out of shap. The trim on mine in the front has dimples that grip the top to stay on. I did not try to put it back on since I was tossing the old tops. Good luck. They are on there tight. When I have my tops painted I left the trim on. Not as great but looked good.
Bob
Prepping my tops for paint and would like to remove the chrome trim.
In researching there seems to be some differences between years on how the chrome is affixed to the tops.
Mine have 4 rivets holding the side trim, the corner rivet also holds down a corner trim plate that overlaps both the side trim and that on the leading edge. The trim on the leading edge seems to be crimped on, I cannot see any glue but I do see 7 crimp points all evenly spaced.
Does anyone know if there is glue under either and if so how do you suggest removal w/o damage of the leading edge trim (that in front). I assume the side rail will come off after drilling the rivets.
Ideas?
I've always wondered about the proper way to handle this trim. The Vettes that I've looked at that have been repainted appear to have been done so with the trim on. In taking it off, you risk damaging it, and if you do, can you buy new pieces? Also, I imagine reinstalling this trim over fresh paint could be quite a challenge. Just some things to consider. Hopefully someone who has been successful it doing this will chime in. Keep us posted.
Last edited by Jud Chapin; Nov 9, 2006 at 11:25 AM.
Thanks, removing all of the trim would be nice for repaint but only if it can be done relatively easily.
Jud I agree, I have had no luck finding replacement trim (just in case), Paragon has some but not all, and I don't want to risk my tops which are mint.
As for masking and painting the tops with the trim in place does anyone have some suggestions for a very good looking result?
I myself am thinking of feather edging the paint right up to and just slightly under the trim, so new paint will lay under these voids and not build-up along the edges.
Suggestions, tips always welcomed
Last edited by 75coupered; Nov 9, 2006 at 12:08 PM.
I removed the trim on my 73 and it was not that hard. You just have to careful and patient. I used wood pieces to tap on and did it from the top side. I did not disort or damage them and it sure makes the paint job look better.
Mine are off my 73 coupe now,..as brother CF6873 says, it's not too hard.
Here's a question,..I'm thinking of leaving this trim off after the paint,..not decided but considering the option. Might be a cleaner look. Any opinions?
I removed the trim on my 73 and it was not that hard. You just have to careful and patient. I used wood pieces to tap on and did it from the top side. I did not disort or damage them and it sure makes the paint job look better.
Were yours just crimped? or were they also glued? if so did you use anything other than tapping them to get them off?
Mine are off my 73 coupe now,..as brother CF6873 says, it's not too hard.
Here's a question,..I'm thinking of leaving this trim off after the paint,..not decided but considering the option. Might be a cleaner look. Any opinions?
Any detail on your removal process would be great.
As to the clean look without them, I think it would look great, but as a show car, in more normal use, the edges will risk getting chipped really easily, could always just put the trim back on later an cover the chips if needed, but I'm more concerned with stress cracks, if you whack them good in the right spot you could easily crack the top, and for this reason, mine will stay or go back on if I get them off
I have done this to my 73 and 77. The block of wood work well to remove the front piece. They are crimped on no glue. Just work it off slowly. To install use a rubber mallet. The paint looks so much better than a high build of paint next to the moulding.
I have done this to my 73 and 77. The block of wood work well to remove the front piece. They are crimped on no glue. Just work it off slowly. To install use a rubber mallet. The paint looks so much better than a high build of paint next to the moulding.
As I recall you have to remove some weatherstipping to get the 4+ screws that hold the trim,..and the inner panel too,..I think. Then the trim is only pinched on,..pretty easy to remove.
As I recall you have to remove some weatherstipping to get the 4+ screws that hold the trim,..and the inner panel too,..I think. Then the trim is only pinched on,..pretty easy to remove.
Thank to everyone's help, as everyone mentioned there was not much of an issue.
Some observations, several have reported some minor damage to the edge upon removal, I'm assuming this is due to the crimping and also from tapping the outer edge on the top side only.
I used a small pry bar at each crimp mark to release them first and then started tapping from both sides top and bottom until it worked its way out. As a result there was no damage on the edges due to the crimps.
the front trim is not glued on this year as others have stated, but the side rail is both riveted and tarred/glued to the top.
Here is a close up of the crimps and resulting edge.
Thanks,
Bill
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Last edited by 75coupered; Nov 11, 2006 at 02:52 PM.
Thank to everyone's help, as everyone mentioned there was not much of an issue.
Some observations, several have reported some monir damage to the edge upon removal, I'm assuming this is due to the crimping and also from tapping the outer edge on the top side.
I used a small pry bar at ech crimp mark to release them first and then started tapping from both sides top and bottom until it worked its way out. As a result there was no damage on the edges due to the crimps.
the front trim is not glues on this year as others have stated, but the side rail is both riveted and tarred/glued to the top.
Here is a close up of the crimps and resulting edge.
So the trim came off without any damage to it? I'm bookmarking this thread so that when I paint my '76, .....
Jud, yes the trim came off without damage, I think the key to avoiding the damage is to work the crimped side first expanding and breaking those loose before tapping the trim off, otherwise the crimps will gouge the fiberglass and chip it as it comes off. Notice the scratch marks in my pics is just a scuff in the black paint, but if I had not worked these out with a prybar first I think it would have left much deeper chips.
Jud, yes the trim came off without damage, I think the key to avoiding the damage is to work the crimped side first expanding and breaking those loose before tapping the trim off, otherwise the crimps will gouge the fiberglass and chip it as it comes off. Notice the scratch marks in my pics is just a scuff in the black paint, but if I had not worked these out with a prybar first I think it would have left much deeper chips.
Hope that helps.
Bill
Thanks for the update, Bill. As I mentioned earlier, I don't think many painters do this as it seems like when I look at repainted Vettes with T-tops, you always see a bunch a crud where the trim meets the fiberglass. When you get done, though, your's will look great!
Jud