help with fuel pump installation please
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 972
Likes: 63
From: MI
help with fuel pump installation please
putting a new fuel pump in my 1969 350 motor and cant seem to get the pushrod into a position that allows the arm of the pump to seat under it. i tried turning the motor over manually and also briefly with the key but the pushrod position doesnt seem to change. do i need to remove the insulator/spacer plate in order to position the pushrod ?
thanks guys-
thanks guys-
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Rye TX
OK. Follow me on this. On the front of the block, right around the corner from the fuel pump, you'll see a bolt. Take it out. Find another bolt 1" longer with the same threads and size and insert it and screw it in slightly..
Push the pushrod in all of the way, carefully tighten the bolt till it seats on the pushrod and the pushrod doesn't fall out. Do not overtighten.
At this time, you should be able to mount the fuelpump, torque it down to factory specs.
Remove the larger bolt and replace the smaller one and tighten.
You are finished.
Make sure you replace ALL gaskets.
Did I miss anything, guys?
Push the pushrod in all of the way, carefully tighten the bolt till it seats on the pushrod and the pushrod doesn't fall out. Do not overtighten.
At this time, you should be able to mount the fuelpump, torque it down to factory specs.
Remove the larger bolt and replace the smaller one and tighten.
You are finished.
Make sure you replace ALL gaskets.
Did I miss anything, guys?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,795
Likes: 1
i just installed my new pump the other night
and used the bolt in the front method and it
worked like a charm but before you do crank
the engine over by hand if you can and get
the rod on a low spot on the excentric so the
rod is up in as far as it can go, this will help
with the pump install.
also to access the bolts dont kill yourself
over the fender, remove the right front
wheel and you should be able to see the bolts
that hold the pump.
i used a 12" extension and got them perfectly
and used the bolt in the front method and it
worked like a charm but before you do crank
the engine over by hand if you can and get
the rod on a low spot on the excentric so the
rod is up in as far as it can go, this will help
with the pump install.
also to access the bolts dont kill yourself
over the fender, remove the right front
wheel and you should be able to see the bolts
that hold the pump.
i used a 12" extension and got them perfectly
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 4
From: New Baden Illinois
Originally Posted by AlCherry
OK. Follow me on this. On the front of the block, right around the corner from the fuel pump, you'll see a bolt. Take it out. Find another bolt 1" longer with the same threads and size and insert it and screw it in slightly..
Push the pushrod in all of the way, carefully tighten the bolt till it seats on the pushrod and the pushrod doesn't fall out. Do not overtighten.
At this time, you should be able to mount the fuelpump, torque it down to factory specs.
Remove the larger bolt and replace the smaller one and tighten.
You are finished.
Make sure you replace ALL gaskets.
Did I miss anything, guys?
Push the pushrod in all of the way, carefully tighten the bolt till it seats on the pushrod and the pushrod doesn't fall out. Do not overtighten.
At this time, you should be able to mount the fuelpump, torque it down to factory specs.
Remove the larger bolt and replace the smaller one and tighten.
You are finished.
Make sure you replace ALL gaskets.
Did I miss anything, guys?
The rod sits on a lobe. You should be able to turn the engine over until the rod is on the low part of the lobe. It should move in and out freely when this happens. Then, follow one of the other procedures listed here. I usually stuff grease in there to hold it in place.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Rye TX
Originally Posted by ryan22
so i do need to remove the spacer/insulator plate from the area where the fuel pump mounts in order to position the pushrod is that correct ?
I took the spacer/insulator plate off and replaced the gaskets. Follow the above directions. Take it slow and everything will work out. Print this out and take it to the shop with you.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Pro
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 560
Likes: 1
From: Mooresville NC
Originally Posted by ryan22
so i do need to remove the spacer/insulator plate from the area where the fuel pump mounts in order to position the pushrod is that correct ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,577
Likes: 2
From: Long Island New York
When I did mine I coated it with engine assembly lube and put it in the freezer for about an hour or so. Take it out (the fuel pump shaft that is) and shove it up in there (in the engine that is) and it will stay there without dropping out for about a 1/2 hour or so. Put everything back together as stated above and your good to go.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,795
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by ryan22
so i do need to remove the spacer/insulator plate from the area where the fuel pump mounts in order to position the pushrod is that correct ?
you may have to remove the plate, also bear in mind that it will require
another gasket in between that plate and the block.
i removed mine because i was painting everything anyway
but i was glad i did because the rod actually had some varnishing
on it and i cleaned it really well before replacing, slid really smooth
after that.
once again, for me the bolt method worked like a charm just dont forget
to remove the longer bolt when you are done. i also put some RTV on the
original bolt just to make sure no oil worked its way past the threads.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Just a heads up for others following along...
Some older blocks do not have the bolt hole as described.
I have one such animal in my shop as we speak.
So if yours doesn't, don't be confused.
Just use the grease method instead.
Some older blocks do not have the bolt hole as described.
I have one such animal in my shop as we speak.
So if yours doesn't, don't be confused.
Just use the grease method instead.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 972
Likes: 63
From: MI
thank you, thank you , thank you
Rich you were exactly right i could not get the rod pushed back up into the engine without taking the plate off. this engine is in a 61 i dont know how easy/difficult it is to get to the fuel pump bolts in C3's but i found it to be a little maddening...put the grease on, push the rod up, put the plate back on, put the new pump in place and before i could get it bolted in the pushrod slid back down. this sequence happened more than once 
i had to move to plan b and use the bolt method to hold the pushrod in place. SUCCESS ! now i'm wondering about getting some stainless steel braided fuel line...anyone know of a good vendor to get this from ? again thanks for the help guys...if i had attempted the grease method again i'd probobly be in need of a straight jacket and a padded room right now.
i had to move to plan b and use the bolt method to hold the pushrod in place. SUCCESS ! now i'm wondering about getting some stainless steel braided fuel line...anyone know of a good vendor to get this from ? again thanks for the help guys...if i had attempted the grease method again i'd probobly be in need of a straight jacket and a padded room right now.