in process of changing to adjustable strut rods, and I cannot for the life of me get these :mad :mad :mad lower shock mounts off from control arm brackets! I removed the bottom of the shocks, got the stud nuts off, soaked, and soaked , and soaked the mounts, and slammed them with a sledge, and slammed , and slammed them. I even bent one of them from slammin so much :mad :mad :mad what do I do now? :confused: what is this little "tool" MAdvet sells? It looks like a longer nut? This does not look like it's going to be much help to me! :smash: :smash: :smash:


[Modified by SEE3ER, 9:55 PM 9/22/2001]

 

C3er,

Hit them hard, and they will come out. I used a 5 lb hammer and lots, I mean LOTS of brute force!

The tool sold my MAD and others is used to protect the threads of the mount while you beat the %#$&@ out of it. If you don't use this tool (or any other method) then the mount will most probably mushroom when you hit it.

Hope this helps...

-Pedro


[Modified by Pedro'74, 10:05 PM 9/22/2001]

 

If the one you didn't bend is undamaged, then I would do nothing until you get the MAD tool. I was apparently VERY lucky with mine because both came off very easily. I think others have used the tool with good success. Unfortunately, the shock mounts are NOT cheap (~$50 each), so at about $15, the tool could still save you some money. Besides soaking them in penetrating oil and using a heavy hammer, I'm afraid I don't know what else to add. Good Luck.


[Modified by jerryp58, 10:34 PM 9/22/2001]

 

If you have been beating them with a hammer and didn't protect the threads (which it sounds like that from your post), you might as well order new shock mounts now. If the threads are not toast on the one that isn't bent, the tool might help you, but if you've mushroomed the head, you won't even be able to use the tool. I don't know what to tell you about the bent one, wish you luck with it.

One thing that might help, would be to raise the trailing arm up to ride height (level to ground) to reduce any binding from the strut rods. You'll understand exactly what I mean when you try to install the new ones.

BTW, did you unbolt the spring end??? That would cause you serious headache if you left it attached. If you have not done that yet, and don't have a manual or the knowledge, drop me a line and I'll post how. I just got finished doing the same thing this weekend so I definitely know how.

 

I know where your coming from when you say you can't get the mount off. I replaced them on my 75 and Idid the same thing your doing :smash: :smash: :smash: :mad :smash: :smash: :mad I finally broke out the torches and heated the mount up really, really hot and then started :smash: :smash: again, I finally got them out but as you can imagine I had to buy new ones. The good thing is they go in a heck of a lot easier than they come out.
Slide

 

You know, that strut mount is such a simple device really, I can't for the life of me see 50 bucks each....if mine ever fail...it's two bolts welded together....
only one to fail could be the shock mount, not all THAT critical...the big one is a 5/8 diameter bolt...going nowhere...

GENE

 

Wow wow wow!!!

That definitely not true!!!
The 50 bucks are justified Guys!!! the thing is :
1: casted
2: heat treated
3: milled
4: threadened

And it is VERY HARD (!) but only for the ability of holding the strut rods and the shocks.
It was not designed for hammer blows on the threaded end!
If you are this tough to weld two bolts together and put them in it shows two things:

1: You are the long looked after BUBBA !!!
2: You have enough money to let the rear end do by a professionel then!
(Because after the first bumps the bolt will break, the wheel will tilt outward,
the wheelstuds will break under the load as well as the U-Joints will do,
the tire will go outside the wheelwell, taking a significant portion of the rear clip with him, the car will smash on the brakedisk, hurt the spindle in consequence,
pushing the halfshaft in the differential ruining the posi cage.........)

Nice fiction, isn´t it? Costs about 4 - 5 grand when done professional.
It´s just 100 times the price of a new shock mount, just keep on savin´
:jester

Hope you understand the sarcastic note in there!
Be advised that this is a safety relevant part not to joke with!

To break the thing loose you should have used the tool, then the mounts are often reuseable.
When you started with brute force, they are not to use any more.
The hammer blows are OK with the tool :smash: but not without, this gives damage to the threads.

OK, if you have soaked with penetrating oil and hammered it :smash: and still no response from the mount,
you can use a torch to SLIGHTLY warm the assembly.
Cool it then with a good splash of water and repeat for about 3 times.
The expansion and contraction should help come loose.

ATTENTION: DO NOT APPLY THIS MANY HEAT THAT THE PARTS BECOME RED !:mad
Both stucking parts are heat treated, and by givin excessive heat they are weakened!!!:eek:

Take care!!!

 

The special tool works better, but you can also thread a nut half-way onto the exposed threads and then screw a short bolt into the other end of the nut. You can then tighten the bolt until it "bottoms" onto the end of the shock mount, being held in position by the nut. When you hit the bolt you transfer the force through the end of the bolt i.e. not via the threads. If you use heat, don't overdo it.

good luck

 

Pedro-----I used a 10lb hammer!!!!!!! :smash: :smash: :smash:

 

Sharklover----I may have worded my post leading one to believe I did not protect threads, but I've been working on these 'buckboards' long enough to screw on a couple of nuts in order to hammer them!
As far as removing the 'spring end'? I'm not sure what you mean by that, my manual says nothing about removing any part of the spring parts. Just to remove strut end at trailing arm bracket, and then remove differential bracket before removing the cam bolt kits. The threads were not ruined, but I cant believe I can re-use the mount because of being bent from the repeated blows. That 'tool' looks like nothing more than a nut to me, is this correct? If so, it will not help me I'm sure!
Thanks for all the input.

 

My instructions also don't say anything about removing the spring end, however, for installation of the Smart Struts, the instructions say to remove the spring end. I guess you could do it either way, but if you don't jack up and support the T-arm, you will have a nearly impossible task trying to get those shock mounts out. When the trailing arm is lowered, as it is when the rear of the car is jacked up, the strut rods are binding against the bolt. Now add the tension of the spring end to that and you should see how difficult it would be to move that mount. If you have not raised the T-arm to ride height (level to ground) then do so before trying any more. Also, if the T-arm is not supported, then the pressure from the spring can snap the T-arm down in a hurry when that bolt finally comes loose. I wouldn't want my hands underneath it.

If you bent the shock mount, you absolutely can not use it again. The tool that various companies sell is a large nut that is not hollow all the way through. It bottoms out against the shock mount so as to protect it from getting bent. There is maybe a quarter to half inch of space between the tool and the assembly. I thought it was a waste of $12 until I used it. I could reuse my shock mounts if I wanted to but they are 20 years old so I replaced them. Maybe I wasted $100, maybe I didn't. Anyway, let us know if you get the mounts removed.

 

OH MY GOOOOOOOOOOODDDDDDDDDD!!!!!!!!!!! :nopity :nopity :nopity
I got one side off!!!!!!!!! :cry :cry :cry
Time to celebrate, re-group, and dig in for another long haul on the other side!
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
THE SECOND ONE IS OUT!!! 2ND ONE IS OUT!!! CAN'T BELIEVE IT, ONLY TOOK A WEEK, BUT THE SECOND ONE IS CUT, TORCHED, SLAMMED, BLOWN IN 4 PIECES AND OUTA HERE!!! :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:
Celebrate :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :flag
Now to buy the right rear shocks! (what kind does everyone recommend?)


[Modified by SEE3ER, 9:33 PM 10/2/2001]

 

So now what brand of rear shocks people??? :crazy:

 

dood

use the "shock knocker" tool and beat the living @$##@! outta it!

:smash: :smash: :smash:

 

Glad you finally got both of them removed. I wish I had some advice for you on shocks. What kind of driving is your style. Maybe someone else can help with advice.

 

I have the kyb gas shocks I like them

 

I also have the KYB gas and like them lou :D

 

Have adjustable Konis installed and they are much better than the tired old ones I have removed. Guess the only way to find out what shocks are best you need to buy all brands and compare them with some test drives.
Any new shock replacing an old one will improve the handling. So I can not tell you if the Konis I have are better than Bilsteins or KYBs.....

 

i have KYB's... "the poor mans shock"

i guess i like them, hadnt had any others on the car to compare by!!

:conehead

 

KYB's suck.
Get a pair of adjustable HAL shocks. You dial in the ride you want.

Going to the track? crank it up!
Going out with the sweetie? Crank it down...