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Old Nov 24, 2006 | 10:10 AM
  #21  
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Durango_Boy
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Originally Posted by 1979toy
The distance from the brake pedal pivot point to the clevis attachment point is also different between power and manual brakes.

That's true, but it's still adjustable. You just have to make sure you have full retract, and full force when pushed in without hitting the floor.
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Old Nov 24, 2006 | 10:49 AM
  #22  
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St. Jude Donor '05-'07
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Originally Posted by 1979toy
The distance from the brake pedal pivot point to the clevis attachment point is also different between power and manual brakes.
The pedal bracket (under dash) is also different for power brake cars as well as some hardware like the brake switch actuator bracket. Brake lines are also different.

SMH, I saw from your earlier post that you are making a drag car and as such, are interested in lightening the car. If I were you I would leave the booster in and switch to a lightweight master.
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #23  
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SMH - Have you already looked into a lighter caliper or are you still using stock calipers? I think the easiest way for you to do all this is to buy the electric assist pump and keep the vac booster. If weight is your goal, you can buy light weight aluminum master, and Willwood style calipers. That'll save you a lot of weight in the long run.
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Old Nov 26, 2006 | 08:48 PM
  #24  
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Probably end up with Vac pump that will solve my Brake and headlight problem.
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Old Nov 26, 2006 | 09:05 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by SMH
Probably end up with Vac pump that will solve my Brake and headlight problem.

How much vac are you short? Did you say you were running around 10 pounds? I think brakes and lights will work on 15, but 17-20 is best. Check and see what those pumps offer.
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