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I have a Keith Black aluminum bare block. (It's their version of the GM BB.) I'm pretty its the same deck height of my 69 GM cast iron 427 block. (In addition to the Keith Black block I have Brodix aluminum heads)
Opinions please: What is the maximum displacement I can build this engine with an internally balanced crank? I know I can use all stock 454 GM parts, add mallory weights to a stock GM BB crank, and internally balance the engine. But moving up in displacement from 454 where can I get to...can, say, a 502 be internally balanced with specialty parts?. Up to what displacement can I go with specialty light weight steel rods? What about titanium rods/pins. I know the titanium is expensive, but the price of SB titanium rods doesn't seem to be a real show stopper so maybe BB rods are not that bad either. If getting max cubes means titanium, perhaps I'm getting myself in trouble with something that really isn't practical for me. I won't be seriously drag racing the car.
So.. to reiterate what opinions are there as to the max cubes you can build a BB to, with specialty steel rods or with titanium, and still internally balance the crank. Thanks
PS: Comment for long time readers of this forum. I won't be getting titanium rotors.
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Nov 21, 2006 at 11:00 PM.
I haven't seen a motor yet that couldn't be internally balanced with enough mallory. It will cost you though. Vetmaniac here on the forum internally balanced his steel rod 632.
I'm running a steel 496 internally balanced crank in a 69 Camaro. No probs for five years now. Then, internally balanced stroker cranks required more clearancing,..and the externally balanced less clearncing. Don't know if that's still the case.
I haven't seen a motor yet that couldn't be internally balanced with enough mallory. It will cost you though. Vetmaniac here on the forum internally balanced his steel rod 632.
That's great to hear. For GM Performance engines, I think the next step up is 572 cubic inches, but I think that involves increased deck heights that increase fit problems for C3's when you consider stock hood/stock power brake vacuum can interferences. So in today's world, maybe moving up to a 502 internally balanced engine could be done without too much problems fitting the engine into pretty much of a stock appearing fit in the C3 engine compartment.
For a 502 engine, any suggestions for a crank and rod choice? I suppose a GM performance 502 forged steel crank and forged steel rods (7/16 bolts) would be a first obvious choice? Maybe there's a better choice. I suppose the GM 502 crank has enough space to add the mallory weights.
The standard deck big block is limited to basically 510 ci. My internally balanced motor was bored .120 over and used a 4.25 stroker crank. The problem with the 120 overbore is that it is the last one. That is why so many people built 496's. When the bore wares out in the stock block it's basically trash unless you want to sleeve the block. Your aluminum block is highly repairable.
I buy lighter weight cranks that require drilling to balance. I don't buy junky budget cranks that require welding in heavy metal slugs.
You do understand that 496's and 510's will make the same amount of power as a 540 - 572 with equal components?
N/A with biggest heads, rollers cams, intake type and compression ratio. The HP changes very little, it just comes in at a lower rpm as ci goes up within a ci class of motors.
Isn't Chevy's version of the 502 just a bored out 454? I've heard of 496 strokers that run a 4.25" stroked crank. Then, you could work your way up in bore size to a 540 or so.
You do understand that 496's and 510's will make the same amount of power as a 540 - 572 with equal components?
For a 510 to make 540 or 572 power leve;s its going to be much more radical than the bigger engine,it can be down but it will be real rad.bigger cube's will make more power easier.
N/A with biggest heads, rollers cams, intake type and compression ratio. The HP changes very little, it just comes in at a lower rpm as ci goes up within a ci class of motors.
Yes, but throw that same appropriate stuff in a 598 and see what you get.....
You can internally balance just about anything. The best way when adding a lot of heavy metal to the crank is to bore on through the first counterweight and add some to the next counterweights. Few shops go to the trouble..but it makes a nice setup.
But a 540-565 is an easy balance job on a short deck motor. Out of the box stuff these days.