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Hello, I bought a accell (acc-8104) 32oz single point with condenser kit. I installed it like it said and shimed it to .019 with a feeler guage when it is in the open position (flat on the cam). The car will not start with it installed but if i put the old blue streak point back on it starts and runs fine. Is the accell part wrong for this car? Why wouldn't it start with it. If i can get it started i can adjust the dwell with a meter.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
You need to gap it to .016" on the very highest point of the cam (points wide open to maximum opening) - not the flat. If you gap on the flat, the points will never close, and ignition will never fire. Also, .019" is excessive gap and will not give you enough dwell. Run the gap at .016" and then check it with a dwell meter for 30-31 degrees dwell after start-up.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I have a distributor machine that I run and test one heck of a lot of points on. My personal recommendation is to run the NAPA/Echlin CS786 points with the RR175 Condenser. This point set will run up through 7000 rpm without bounce or timing scatter (I've tested them), and they are not so stiff that the rubbing block wears out. I use this set in all the distributors I build and in all the ones I set up on the Tuning for Beer Tours.
One more thing here---- make SURE the feeler gauge is clean. If there is ANY oil on the blade you've just insulated your points. As already pointed out, set them on the very tip of the cam, make sure there is a little bit of lube on the rubbing block, and you're good to go.
IT'S ALIVE. That was it. It actualy fired right up instantly. It always takes about 4 seconds of solid cranking before it starts. I will warm it up tomorrow and dwell meter it. Thanks guys. One more question. I also bought a accell curve kit (weights and springs- acc-31042) It comes with a set of Black,gold,sliver springs. Which would be the best set for it?
Thanks Eric
Last edited by carnut114; Nov 23, 2006 at 11:29 PM.
I have never had any real good service out of ACCEL ignition components. I had really good service out of Borg Warner points and condinsers. I also cut my own wires using the Bosch 8.5 mm wire kits. My .02 Al
I have always used a feeler guage to just temporarily set points and then adjust them to 30 degrees for the final setting. I've also found that checking them every couple of months and keeping them at the 30 degree mark makes for much longer lasting points, assuming all else is functioning properly.
I have a distributor machine that I run and test one heck of a lot of points on. My personal recommendation is to run the NAPA/Echlin CS786 points with the RR175 Condenser. This point set will run up through 7000 rpm without bounce or timing scatter (I've tested them), and they are not so stiff that the rubbing block wears out. I use this set in all the distributors I build and in all the ones I set up on the Tuning for Beer Tours.
I used those on my 73, big improvement. For lack of a feeler gauge use a matchbook, the thickness is close. Slide it between, tighten till you just feel drag as you pull it out. Then set timing.
IT'S ALIVE. That was it. It actualy fired right up instantly. It always takes about 4 seconds of solid cranking before it starts. I will warm it up tomorrow and dwell meter it. Thanks guys. One more question. I also bought a accell curve kit (weights and springs- acc-31042) It comes with a set of Black,gold,sliver springs. Which would be the best set for it?
I had excellent results with the Accel points. I ran the last set over 7 years in my car on the 427 and the 540 and they were always great. they never varied or moved around any. The last time I dyno'd my 540, the shop dist had died, so we had to press my point dist into play at the last second. It made 810HP but the points did start to bounce at 6900-7000. But remember, these were 7 years old at the time!