changing engine mounts, need a quick advice please...
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 20,715
Likes: 25
From: Sorrento Italy
changing engine mounts, need a quick advice please...
i'm going to change engine mounts (from oem to moroso solid HD)...can i just pull the engine slightly up and change the mounts without touching the driveline/trans/etc? or should i take off the trans before pulling the engine? i guess i could do this operation streight away 'cause i only need to pull the engine not more then an inch or so...
am i right?
thanks/Giu
am i right?
thanks/Giu
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
You can change the mounts just like you think. Lift it just enough to take the old mounts out. I'd remove the distributor cap and (if it's a 4 speed) maybe the clutch cross shaft. Watch the radiatir/fan too.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
I recently changed my motor mounts without disconnecting anything. I was able to catch a corner of the block wiah a bottle jack to raise the engine just enough to take the load off the m.m. bolt.
I had to remove the fuel pump to get at the main m.m. bolt on the right side of the engine though.
I had to remove the fuel pump to get at the main m.m. bolt on the right side of the engine though.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 3
From: Wellington, New Zealand
Quite a few people seem to run solid mounts I am contemplating either urethane or solid. If you are running a fairly hipo engine would the solid mounts give the chassis a hard time, the torque has to be transfered some where when you hit the throttle.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 26
From: Clymer PA
Originally Posted by mr303
Quite a few people seem to run solid mounts I am contemplating either urethane or solid. If you are running a fairly hipo engine would the solid mounts give the chassis a hard time, the torque has to be transfered some where when you hit the throttle.
. I haven't experienced any problems with my chassis. The only way you would run into chassis problems would be if you are pulling the front wheels and do not have a cage to help support the frame. You can still run a rubber transmission mount with solid motor mounts to help with shifter vibration...you just can't run a solid tranny mount with rubber motor mounts.
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 3
From: Wellington, New Zealand
Basicly you have to raise the car on stands then raise the engine with your trolley jack a little, you are only lifting it to take the weight off the mounts. You can then remove the mounts (3 bolts on the engine and one large bolt going through the chassis mount) It is a little tight in there and you may have to remove the fuel pump to do the right hand side.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by mr303
Basicly you have to raise the car on stands then raise the engine with your trolley jack a little, you are only lifting it to take the weight off the mounts. You can then remove the mounts (3 bolts on the engine and one large bolt going through the chassis mount) It is a little tight in there and you may have to remove the fuel pump to do the right hand side.
And what is the difference between normal mounts, which I have (rubber) and solid?
Thanks
And don't get mad for "hijacking" but I figured it would be better to ask this here rather than start a repetitive thread
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 3
From: Wellington, New Zealand
I have raised the engine using the sump a number of times, there really quite strong. Place some timber between the jack and sump, a couple of bits of 4x2 or 2x4 as you say in the US this helps distribute the load. When I rebuilt my 4 speed I left the engine jacked like this for over a week and it was fine. Solid mounts have no rubber sandwich between the chassis mount and the plate that bolts to the engine, this rubber stops the engine from transfering vibrations to the frame. Solid mounts are just folded steel that replace the standard rubber style.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by mr303
I have raised the engine using the sump a number of times, there really quite strong. Place some timber between the jack and sump, a couple of bits of 4x2 or 2x4 as you say in the US this helps distribute the load. When I rebuilt my 4 speed I left the engine jacked like this for over a week and it was fine. Solid mounts have no rubber sandwich between the chassis mount and the plate that bolts to the engine, this rubber stops the engine from transfering vibrations to the frame. Solid mounts are just folded steel that replace the standard rubber style.
What is recommended for the mount? Rubber, Poly, or Solid?
I have a 427 BB... and a lumpy cam which makes for a lumpy idle and I can see the motor vibrate when idleing.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 3
From: Wellington, New Zealand
With a big cam and a big block you will get plenty of shaking going on! Rubber is standard, urethane is stiffer and less prone to gas or oil contamination (which breaks down the rubber), solid is like bolting your engine straight to the chassis! I would think that urethane might be better in your case, solid may rattle your teeth out!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by mr303
With a big cam and a big block you will get plenty of shaking going on! Rubber is standard, urethane is stiffer and less prone to gas or oil contamination (which breaks down the rubber), solid is like bolting your engine straight to the chassis! I would think that urethane might be better in your case, solid may rattle your teeth out!
I don't want the car to rattle so much that I lose my teeth. But at the same time I don't like "seeing" the engine move when I'm at a traffic light... I can see the airfilter from inside of the car with an L-88 Hood.So I you're right... I think Poly will be the compromise.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 1
From: East China MI
Originally Posted by mr303
Even with poly you will get some shaking but it will be less. To my way of thinking solid mounts must place some stress on the frame, unless the whole suspension absorbs the vibrations.
If you have enough power, the frame will be stressed anyway, because the torque will compress the medium to its limit and then transmit the torque to the frame.
I have removed all compressable material from the engine, transmission and rear end to eliminate the flex in the drive train which is hard on the parts. Yes, I get a lot of vibration but the parts live longer. However, for a stock motor I would stick with the urethane.
Last edited by jpatrick636; Nov 27, 2006 at 06:26 PM.