Ok I am dumb as dirt but smart enought to ask the question, at least I think so.

If I buy a standard 350 block, what pistons, crank, heads, cam, intake, carb, etc must be combined to reproduce a 1969 350/300 engine? A little more than 300hp wouldn't hurt.

 

I'm using Dart IE 180 heads 64cc chambers, CC XE262 cam, Elderbrock EPS Performer Intake, Holley 670 SA carb and 2VR flat top pistons. I started with a balanced rotating assembly from Scroggins & Dickey that has @9.7:1CR with 64cc heads. This should put you in the 300-350HP range.

 

get the XE284H, lots more fun, also either get a high stall or some low rear gears and youll have more than 350, plus neck snapping low gears.

-alex

 

If you want it to look original, any small block with iron heads and intake will do. The entire engine was painted orange including the steel valve covers and it also used a Q-Jet carb. No one will be able to tell what it is underneath so build it up a little. Your truck block will be a good start.

 

Great I do want it to look original but have some snap.

My existing engine has a cast iron intake # 8927184 is this a manifold I should reuse? I have the Quadrajet

Where would I purchase the cam, crank, pistons, etc?

Oh yeas good Chevy orang paint.

 

Your intake#3927184 was used on 300 hp and 350 hp engines in 1969

 

For your original look rebuild, I would probably buy a 383 stroker crank and piston kit and use the stock intake. You can port and gasket match and clean up the intakes sharp inside edges to make it flow a little better and this would make a nice torquey street engine with your automatic and 3.08s.

 

ok

For and original look I have the following

1. 1973 350 existing block
2. 383 stroker kit and pistons
3. existing stock manifold
4. Heads - stock or new? if new what to buy
5. Cam - stock or new? if new what to buy
6. Carn Quadrajet # 7029207 stock 69 for a manual
7. rear end ratio 308

 

if you use the stroker crank the block has to be ground for extra
clearance, the better machine shops have a fixture they use to
grind it, you may need to grind a little off the top of the rod bolts
for cam clearance or use a small base circle cam or rods that are
for stroker. modern heads have a lot better combustion chambers,
runner shape, but you can make your hp level with stock heads
if its not to expensive to get them up in good shape.

 

I pulled off the valve cover to id the existing heads.

Existing Head Info:

3946813 cast date of 0209 with a GM17 number. I believe this is a economy head found on a 69-70 truck.

Can I just replace the heads with a hump back 3927186 64cc chamber or modern equivalent and get a large bump in horse power?

 

If you can afford new heads they flow air a lot better then
any of the factory heads.

 

Little Mouse,

WhaT heads and from who would you buyfrom

What type of performance pickup should I expect?

 

Ok If I were building a 350 size engine with modest HP as a goal
say 325 to 360 HP hydraulic cam, using a flat top piston with iron heads and want the engine to look like a stocker ( no vortech intake ) I would use the world products WRL-042660-1, 170 runner, 202/160 valves. screw in studes, standard 1.250 size valve springs,
67cc combustion chambers. I would tear it down and get rid of the
umbrella oil seals it comes with and replace them with the viton seals
that lock on to valve guides. Dart iron heads have gone to expensive
around $1,000 even for the smaller 180 runner heads the world
heads I described are around $775. If you build a stroker 383 you
would want to use a piston with a small dish to keep iron heads pump
gas friendly, a head with 64cc chambers and a minimum of 180 size
runner, all the iron heads seem to jump from 180 to 200 on runner
size, I would go to the bigger 200 runner for a 383, you will still have
good torque with the stroker crank and the 200 runner would give
you breathing room to grow in case you should later decide you
wanted an engine with more then 325 to 360 HP. 200 size runner
heads get more into the $1000 price range and if your running a
hydraulic flat tappit cam you only need around 280 open valve
spring pressure, a lot of the 200 runner heads come with bigger
1.437 to 1.55 valve springs that are ment for hydraulic rollers
and the 1.55 may be stiffer yet for soilid rollers. world products
has the sportsman II head WRL-011250-1 with 200 runner,
66cc combustion chamber, strait plugs and 1.250 single springs
to work with hydraulic flat tappit cams $879.00, it also has
umbrella seals, use the viton seals there around $14.00 for 16.
You can use any brand head you like summit has an iron head
with 165 runner 202/160 valves that would be a good head for a
350 its around $650.00.