Head studs or head bolts?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Daytona Beach, FL, USA
Head studs or head bolts?
My .015" Felpro steel shim head gaskets just arrived from Summit. I now have all the gaskets, seals, sidepipes, JCL baffles, studs, sensors, and everything I need to install my new Jet Hot coated Hooker side pipe exhaust system and replace all the top-end gaskets and seals...minus a set of headers thanks to Hooker (they should be here in the next couple weeks). While the heads are off, and being fitted for new guides, hot-tanked, etc., I would like to replace the factory head bolts with some quality ARP parts. I always stud all of my engine components when room allows, but I'm not sure about my 82 Corvette. Does anyone know if I would be able to slide the heads on and off, with the engine in the car, with a set of ARP head studs? If this doesn't work, I will be purchasing a set of the ARP polished 12-point stainless steel head bolts, but I would like to stud the heads if at all possible. It's a tight fit in there, and I don't want to have to lift the engine to install and remove the heads if I were to use studs. However, I wouldn't mind removing a few items (brake booster, etc.). Any inside info would be greatly appreciated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Re: Head studs or head bolts? (TransAm525)
Sounds like you covered all the bases. The only thing that I might add is that the A/C evaporator plenum may be a problem. This is a problem with big block C3's. Don't know about 350's, or even if you have A/C.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: Head studs or head bolts? (TransAm525)
I was able to R&R with stock size heads. Unless your have all of the block head bolt holes align tapped it can be a PITA to even put a studded head on. Use a stud installer tool, thread sealer, and mic. every one to get an even installed height.
IMO SS studs are not worth the cost. Your looking for tensile strength and I've never had them rust in the areas exposed to water.
IMO SS studs are not worth the cost. Your looking for tensile strength and I've never had them rust in the areas exposed to water.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
Re: Head studs or head bolts? (TransAm525)
If you are not racing then studs can be an extra cost that is not needed. I usually only use studs in the upper two corners (helps get the head on without moving or damaging the gasket). New Grade 8 bolts are fine for a street machine.
I think sometimes we tend to want to put only the "best" on our engines, when in reality we are spending more than we need to....
I think sometimes we tend to want to put only the "best" on our engines, when in reality we are spending more than we need to....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 1
From: Park Ridge IL
Re: Head studs or head bolts? (TransAm525)
I've used ARP head studs on the last two motors in my '82. The heater box does present an obstacle to removing the heads with head studs. However, since head studs are only installed finger tight, all you have to do is unscrew/remove the long studs prior to pulling the head off. I've done it several times and it's no big deal. I do recommend using ARP Thread Sealer if you're going to do it this way though, since it's non-hardening it makes the studs alot easier to remove compared to RTV. The driver side is not nearly as bad, you can remove the head with all the studs in place, but it's a tight fit.
I don't remeber what the specifics on your engine are, but studs may not be necessary. Unless you're running high compression, at least 11:1+, NO2 or forced induction, a ARP head bolts would be more than sufficient.
I don't remeber what the specifics on your engine are, but studs may not be necessary. Unless you're running high compression, at least 11:1+, NO2 or forced induction, a ARP head bolts would be more than sufficient.
Pro
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 608
Likes: 0
Re: Head studs or head bolts? (TransAm525)
I went through the same debate over this spring.
I purchased the ARP head studs instead of bolts.
I did have to remove the air box to get the passenger head on the block, but the driver's side fit under the booster (plus I've read here that the booster is a pain to remove).
One warning, though...
If you do go with head studs, PRESSURE TEST the cooling system BEFORE you put antifreeze in to make sure the seals are good!!
I had bubbling coolant passing through the threads of the studs.
I used the ARP non-hardening sealer, which is like gritty toothpaste, and I had TONS of problems getting it to seal.
A couple of people here shared the same experience with these leaks on rebuilt blocks, but most people will stand by the ARP products.
I finally used regular permatex hi-temp silicone to seal the threads.
When I posted the situation, and asked if I should 86 the studs and get bolts instead, one fellow mentioned that if I had leaks with studs, I should also experience leaks with bolts.
I purchased the ARP head studs instead of bolts.
I did have to remove the air box to get the passenger head on the block, but the driver's side fit under the booster (plus I've read here that the booster is a pain to remove).
One warning, though...
If you do go with head studs, PRESSURE TEST the cooling system BEFORE you put antifreeze in to make sure the seals are good!!
I had bubbling coolant passing through the threads of the studs.
I used the ARP non-hardening sealer, which is like gritty toothpaste, and I had TONS of problems getting it to seal.
A couple of people here shared the same experience with these leaks on rebuilt blocks, but most people will stand by the ARP products.
I finally used regular permatex hi-temp silicone to seal the threads.
When I posted the situation, and asked if I should 86 the studs and get bolts instead, one fellow mentioned that if I had leaks with studs, I should also experience leaks with bolts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,429
Likes: 14
From: CA
Re: Head studs or head bolts? (TransAm525)
I also use the Felpro coated shim gaskets & ARP bolts. When torquing, I followed the pattern & increased in 5 lb increments up to 70 ft lbs. Per Felpro tech dept, once they were all up to the spec torque, I loosened each bolt to zero, in order, then brought it back up to max torque, one at a time.
I also used teflon thread sealer on all of the threads & engine oil on both sides of the washers.
I also used teflon thread sealer on all of the threads & engine oil on both sides of the washers.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Daytona Beach, FL, USA
Re: Head studs or head bolts? (TransAm525)
I would like to use the studs because they provide a much better clamping force on the head, and it's much more uniform, plus it makes head gasket installation and alignment a breeze. I will be purchasing the 8740 chromoly studs with 12-point nuts. If presents a huge problem, I will either try the idea Monty has, or if it comes down to it, I will just go with the stainless steel 12-point bolts. My concern is the air box. How much trouble was it to remove the air box, and how long does it take?
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