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I would love to see pictures some time. I am replacing my gears this winter and once I ran into wheel hop when I was lightly trying to hazy the tires, not really spin them. I don't want it to happen again and would love to go with your idea.
A picture would be nice
However reading the original problem by Gordonm, I would be concerned as to why this problem has started. What has changed? If it is an increase in power then does everyone else with similar powered engines have the same problem.
My first thought is that work has been done on the diff crossmember, and it is not located correctly or securely. So that it can now twist where it should normally be rigid enough to prevent diff movement.
At least rigid enough to reduce the movement so as not to induce wheel hop.
In a nutshell - double check your diff and crossmember mounts. If their good then buy or build a jointed bar fixed at both ends.
This has done this since I started to add some power to my LT1 motor back in 97. I have had it ever since. I have added power since then in a few steps and it gets worse with more power. The diff has been out many times and is mounted as rigid as can be. Urethane mounts where it can and the cross member has been reinforced. I don't see how a bar can make it more rigid but I will try anything at this point. I'll probably go with a Heim jointed bar as this will be easy to make and probably the least cost.
I know "traction bar" is the wrong term because it bears little resemblence to the traction bars our son has on his 383 S10, but I wasn't sure what to call it instead. SSM and VBP call theirs a traction bar too.
So, what is the correct name for a bar between the spring mount plate and transmission mount plate?
I would call it a "stabilization bar" for the rear. My SSM bar was modified so the bottom is parallel to the bottom of the exhaust. This was done by removing a wedge shaped piece with a band saw then rewelding the bottom back together. The guy who did this did a custom job, I also didn't need the rubber snubber on the front so it bolts up closer...I sent you some pics G.....
I would call it a "stabilization bar" for the rear. My SSM bar was modified so the bottom is parallel to the bottom of the exhaust. This was done by removing a wedge shaped piece with a band saw then rewelding the bottom back together. The guy who did this did a custom job, I also didn't need the rubber snubber on the front so it bolts up closer...I sent you some pics G.....
Gordonm, Let us know what you try and how it works out. My 69 vert, has terrible wheel hop problems to the point that I think it's going to break something at times. As with you it gets worse as power is improved. Both my C3's run almost identical rear suspensions, with the only differences between the two being the 69's lighter weight and about a 100hp more then my 73.