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I took the Vette out today after fixing the throttle, blades not opening fuly and a jet change. Went up two sizes in each. I want to tell you it made a big difference. My problem is every time the tires break loose, which is when I roll into the throttle in 1st or 2nd and the tach climbs real fast the rear tires start to hop a LOT. If in 1st it gets violent 2nd is just about as bad. I get out of it in 2nd and it stops but as soon as I get back into it and the tires start to break loose it just starts hopping. I did get one good shift into 2nd and just let it rip and just let the tires go but after about 2 seconds it just got so bad I had to let out. This was on the street on cold pavement so there was not to much traction. Last time I went to the track I had the same thing. I have a 420# spring, used to have a 330# and it did the same thing. Bilsteins on all four corners. I don't mind the tires spinning just want the hopping to stop. It just overpowers the rear tires. The only bushing that is not urethane is the front of the trailing arms.
I will say the throttle and jet change and cool weather made some more power which is a good thing.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Does it wheel hop on a smooth surface ? Mine hops if there is uneven pavement and it doesn't have to be that bad, but is fine on a smooth paved surface.
Last edited by MotorHead; Dec 2, 2006 at 11:39 PM.
I've driven many Porsche 911's.. Those cars NEVER want to let the tires rip. Terrible hop as soon as it lets go. I always attributed that to having all the weight on top of the rear axle.
My vette has never done this, but am very curious as to what else will cause wheel hop.
Does it wheel hop on a smooth surface ? Mine hops if there is uneven pavement and it doesn't have to be that bad, but is fine on a smooth paved surface.
It will do it on the strip or the street. Smooth or uneven surface.
Do you have a rear crossmember locator kit in yours? Between the SSM lift bar and the Tom's locator kit, I completely eliminated a horrible wheel hop problem.
Do you have a rear crossmember locator kit in yours? Between the SSM lift bar and the Tom's locator kit, I completely eliminated a horrible wheel hop problem.
Mark
If you are talking about the aluminum discs for the crossmember yes I have them. The bar for the rear spring to the frame I do not have and this is what I am hopingto install this winter to eliminate the problem. Is that what you are talking about?
Is that the same as this. This looks pretty easy to fabricate.
Looks like a similar function and takes less road clearance. My old rear end had a fabricated bar. it worked perfect but I hit it a few times on speed bumps. The new bar is offset to one side. I e-mailed them on this and they said it was designed that way to offset the torque to better eliminate wheel hop. Southside Machine has discontinued these but an e-bay vendor bought out their stock and they are on there brand new. They come black.
If you are talking about the aluminum discs for the crossmember yes I have them. The bar for the rear spring to the frame I do not have and this is what I am hopingto install this winter to eliminate the problem. Is that what you are talking about?
Yes, the aluminum disks are what I was talking about. The kit I have also includes an aluminum disk to replace the rubber bushing between the differential tongue and frame.
I installed both the locator kit and the lift bar at the same time so I'm not sure if one had more impact on eliminating wheel hop. The heim jointed rod in the picture above won't reduce ground clearance to the extent of the SSM piece.
I made the aluminum discs myself. Not to hard just cut slices off and aluminum bar and drilled holes. I do have the urethane bushing in the front of the diff but was considering going to the aluminum disc to further tighten things up.
The SSM bar looks like it does not bolt up but has a snubber cushion. Is this just for pictures or does it bolt up. Do you guys think a Heim jointed bar is as good as the SSM or similar bar. It looks easier and looks like more ground and surronding clearance with the bar. I can certainly fabricate the mount at the spring and the frame.
I made the aluminum discs myself. Not to hard just cut slices off and aluminum bar and drilled holes. I do have the urethane bushing in the front of the diff but was considering going to the aluminum disc to further tighten things up.
The SSM bar looks like it does not bolt up but has a snubber cushion. Is this just for pictures or does it bolt up. Do you guys think a Heim jointed bar is as good as the SSM or similar bar. It looks easier and looks like more ground and surronding clearance with the bar. I can certainly fabricate the mount at the spring and the frame.
It does bolt up in the front and replaces the rear lower spring plate.
I made the aluminum discs myself. Not to hard just cut slices off and aluminum bar and drilled holes. I do have the urethane bushing in the front of the diff but was considering going to the aluminum disc to further tighten things up.
The SSM bar looks like it does not bolt up but has a snubber cushion. Is this just for pictures or does it bolt up. Do you guys think a Heim jointed bar is as good as the SSM or similar bar. It looks easier and looks like more ground and surronding clearance with the bar. I can certainly fabricate the mount at the spring and the frame.
Gordon, the top picture of the SSM lift bar shows the snubber in the wrong location. Bolts go thru the bracket (where the snubber is shown in the picture) to the differential tongue, and the snubber goes on the end of the bar in the threaded hole, and bumps against the frame, thus giving additional rigidity.
Need one of these, Southside Machine IRS Traction Bar. On Ebay for $40. Works like a charm!
I bought one of these, haven't gotten around to installing it yet. Anyone have a pic of it installed? My car is lowered, and I am wondering about ground clearance. Which has more clearance, the SSM type bar or the VB&P heim-joint style bar?
Gordonm
Check your driver side motor mount, it may have separated causing what you think is wheel hop. I race mine once a year at Vette Magic which is a Corvette's only race day. I thought they had really perpared the track that day as my street tires experienced what I thought was wheel hop, turns out that my motor mount had broken and the safty catches were the only thing keeping the engine in place.
Good luck
Russ
Gordonm
Check your driver side motor mount, it may have separated causing what you think is wheel hop. I race mine once a year at Vette Magic which is a Corvette's only race day. I thought they had really perpared the track that day as my street tires experienced what I thought was wheel hop, turns out that my motor mount had broken and the safty catches were the only thing keeping the engine in place.
Good luck
Russ
I broke one of those 3 years ago and went ot a urethane mount with the safety in it . I know it is not the motor mounts as Ido check them on occasion. I broke my fan shroud that day on the strip when the motor mount let go.
Your Shocks may not be properly valved for the 460# spring, they cannot control the motion of the spring. If they are not custom valved they are probably set up for a lower spring rate.
Your Shocks may not be properly valved for the 460# spring, they cannot control the motion of the spring. If they are not custom valved they are probably set up for a lower spring rate.
I have the Bilsteins on the car now. I was at Vette brakes when I ordered the spring and told them exactly what I have and the shocks tha tI have. They said the shocks should be OK with this setup. I'll call again this week just to make sure on this but it was their recomendation.