When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am in the process of doing a body off and i am putting the suspension back on. In the rear i have VBP off set trailing arms and all new goodies. I know that i am not going to be accurate without total weight on the wheels but i would like to get in the ball park. What is a method to get the rear shims in for the toe in?
Thanks
I'd just put equal numbers of shims on each side of the bushing, then take it to a shop with a good alignment tech and a Hunter DSP9700 alignment system.
i pulled a taught string along the outside edge of the rear tires, and measured the distance to the frame rail near the front tire. then adjusted the shims. i found that the number of shims needed was vastly different from what was present before i did the rebuild. ended up with only about 1/4" on inboard driver's side, although i haven't replaced the body yet, and i could be way off.
It will be difficult to get it to close without the body on it. The weight affects the camber, and the camber affects toe.
You can check the camber by just using a carpenters level. Then set your toe using a tape measure, measuring on the front and rear of the tires. Try to measure them in the same spot on the front as the rear (180 degrees) from one another. The frame is in the way to get straight across from each other, but you can get close.
Make sure you bounce the car and roll it back and forth a bit before checking it again. So everything settles into place.
As long as your toe is within a 1/4 or so, you will probably be okay to make a drive to the alignment shop.
For what it's worth, you might fill your fuel tank about 1/2 or so before you get it aligned. This will help to give your car a close to average weight. Fuel weights something like 6-7 lbs/gallon. So, it does have a bit of effect on the angles. Not a life or death deal, but something to maybe think about.
You can go to Vette Brakes web site, they have a nice page on alignment specs for different applications. It might help give you an idea of what angles you might want.
i pulled a taught string along the outside edge of the rear tires, and measured the distance to the frame rail near the front tire. then adjusted the shims. i found that the number of shims needed was vastly different from what was present before i did the rebuild. ended up with only about 1/4" on inboard driver's side, although i haven't replaced the body yet, and i could be way off.
Why not use a laser level laid along the rim and project forward to see if you are toed in or out? A laser level is cheap enough and does away with the string.
Make sure the trailing arms are at about the normal ride height. If they hang down the toe really changes.
You would need 4 of them I think. 2 forward 2 back. then measure between the beams.
the only problem i see is that the farther you get from the tire, down the beam, the measurement will increase or decrease due to distance. you would still have to take the measurement at the tire....
i used a taught string because it seemed simpler. i had my better half hold the string about axel high against the tire tread at the aft side. i pulled the string tight while near the front tire. i moved the string from well to the side of the car toward the frame. just as my wife ( who was standing next to the rear tire) saw the string touch the forward tire bulge, i knew that the string and tire were aligned the same. i'm 60 now, and i couldn't see exactly when the string touched!
the ole front to rear string trick looks as if it will also lower the chances of excessive thrust. since you are coming off of the front wheels to line up the rear.cool.