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Remounting the body

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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 09:35 AM
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Default Remounting the body

I am getting ready to place the body back on my 69 coupe refurbished frame. Is there a trick to how many new shims go at each mount?
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 11:38 AM
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If you didn't count them as you removed the body you are running blind. Some people put a couple at each location and then see how the body fits. The front and rear door gaps are key. You can then add and subtract shims to get the gaps where you want them. Run a search. There are some help full posts on this subject.

Ralph.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 11:57 AM
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Be sure to check gaps with wheels on the ground! If the car is on jack stands everything changes.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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There was a post I saw where someone used clay and squished it in between the mounts to see how much space was needed for shims. I just dropped mine back on for winter storage. Gonna remount the doors and see where I am at for the final drop next summer. I got a new frame so I am definately blind. All the mounts except #4 lay on the rocker channel so I would think they would be pretty close to equal.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 01:26 PM
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there is a good step by step article in the current issue of CE.

my copy is at home or I'd scan and post it for you.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 02:37 PM
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You guys are really helpful and this site is awesum. I did count and tag all of the shims when I pulled the body but I figured the new mounting kit would change everything. I like the clay idea. My body guy wants to prep and paint the body on the cart but I am more inclined to just have him fix, prep, and jam the car so that I can drive the car in primer for a couple of hundred miles and look for stress cracks.


Last edited by coinwasher; Dec 4, 2006 at 04:19 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 07:45 PM
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You might be correct about the new mounting kit. I have found the new kits have shims that are thicker than what came from the factory for both my 69 and 79 cars. It is wise to save and recycle any old shims from your project. If you saved your old shims, use a caliper to measure the stack depth at each mount and try and duplicate it. Just laying the body on the mounts doesn't tell you much. When the body mount bolts are torqued down everything changes. This is why it is helpful to know what the factory used at each mount location. If your shim stack is too light at the #3 location, for example, more than likely your rear door gap will close up on torquing the bolt. Of course, you can always add shims, but with eight mounts to deal with it is helpful to have an accurate starting point.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rponfick
If you didn't count them as you removed the body you are running blind. Some people put a couple at each location and then see how the body fits. The front and rear door gaps are key. You can then add and subtract shims to get the gaps where you want them. Run a search. There are some help full posts on this subject.

Ralph.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by zwede
Be sure to check gaps with wheels on the ground! If the car is on jack stands everything changes.
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