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ive bought some hooker headers and side pipes, and was wondeering, instaed of dropping the $160 to hav then ceramic coated if there was a nother way to hav them painted (or some form of) black, i hav been told by 2 diff paint/powder/ceramic coating specialists and they said that powder coating WONT hold up
also i was wondering wut would give me the loudest legal sound for the muffler, i was going to get glasspacks, but ive heard about some called "cherry bombs" or something like that, basically i want to know wut would give me the loudest sound without cutout vlaves
My Hooker side pipes are black. Basically I just took some course steel wool pads and removed the majority of the old paint, then went back over it with some fine steel wool pads to clean it up. I then washed the headers and pipes off really good. I used some 1200 degree ceramic engine paint (can be purchased at almost any parts store) and painted both sections. I did tape off part of the collector that slides into the side tube. They have been holding up great, I usually pull them every year or two and re-finish them because burnouts in the water box take there toll.
As for mufflers, I don't run any with the big block. I may put my JCL baffles in this year if the police give me problems though.
I painted mine with Duplicolor 600 Degree black header paint and after 30 minutes of run time most of it had burned right off. Maybe I'll try out the 1200 degree stuff if I can find it, although almost everyone you talk to say that paint just doesn't hold up from the heat and you need to ceramic coat them.
I also use the silver very high temperature paint from a spray can, on my BB Vette and small block street rod (Custom headers with cutouts, circa 1960). It holds up fine, and is so cheap that you could redo about 30x for what jet-hot costs.
As far as I know, cherry bombs are just glasspacks, might have been a brand name way back when. I have these with headers on my '70 Olds 442 with a 455, and it has the best sound of any of my cars.
I also use the silver very high temperature paint from a spray can, on my BB Vette and small block street rod (Custom headers with cutouts, circa 1960). It holds up fine, and is so cheap that you could redo about 30x for what jet-hot costs.
As far as I know, cherry bombs are just glasspacks, might have been a brand name way back when. I have these with headers on my '70 Olds 442 with a 455, and it has the best sound of any of my cars.
Steve
Thank you all VERY much!!! wut brand of paint are you using? how hot it is rated for?
Also, i know this is severly off topic of this thread but am i opening a can of worms by wanting to get a preformance cam? ive already got a bad valve spring somewhere on the right side, and was planning on getting a valve job done to fix the problem, but i thougth yle theyre in ther y not replace the valves cam and valve springs, or am i going to need to replace the rocker arms, push rods, and the list goes on and on to where im completely redoing my engine including my AC unit(a bit of an exageration but you understand)
There are no paints, that I am aware of, that will last more than a few hours on an exhaust header. I have had Jet Hot coated headers that last longer, but eventually deteriorate. Unless going ***** out for the low ET, there are just too many problems with headers if you plan on putting any miles on your ride. There is mega heat generated that causes all kinds of problems with spark plug wires and wiring. As an extreme example, I put a set of fenderwell headers on a 64 Nova. Blistered the paint on the inner panels, had to re-rout break lines and wiring. IMO go with the factory stuff unless you want to win the quarter mile.
There are no paints, that I am aware of, that will last more than a few hours on an exhaust header. I have had Jet Hot coated headers that last longer, but eventually deteriorate. Unless going ***** out for the low ET, there are just too many problems with headers if you plan on putting any miles on your ride. There is mega heat generated that causes all kinds of problems with spark plug wires and wiring. As an extreme example, I put a set of fenderwell headers on a 64 Nova. Blistered the paint on the inner panels, had to re-rout break lines and wiring. IMO go with the factory stuff unless you want to win the quarter mile.
you should all try grill paint about $8 bucks a can but very durable does not burn off good for about 2 years (just sand blast on used headers or wire wheel a new out of the box pair) or go with ceramic powder coating about $180-275 depending on the color you want mixed
After the original paint burns off,(usually about an hour of run time), I blast them and hand sand to a finish that will adhere paint well and use a spray can of black BBQ, high heat paint. Works great, 3 years so far, and driven about 5,000 miles a year.
TJ
you should all try grill paint about $8 bucks a can but very durable does not burn off good for about 2 years (just sand blast on used headers or wire wheel a new out of the box pair) or go with ceramic powder coating about $180-275 depending on the color you want mixed
Home Depot BBQ Grill flat black spray paint after a sandblasting will work for those on a budget. You will need to sandblast them to give the metal a rough finish for the paint to stick. Touch up at the end of the season and they will look pretty good for the money. The metal must be coated quickly after blasting or it will rust right away.
The paint they come with out of the box is only good to prevent rust before they are installed.