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I am still stewing over this due to my wheel hop problem. Some have said to try a traction/stabalizer bar on the rear. I have not done this but went under the car to look tonight. I have the rear in there with urethane bushing all around and they are extremly tight. I jacked up the front and the rear of the diff, lifted the car this way and neither end budged at all. I mean it is solid as a rock. How does the traction bar really work. It just looks like it ties the rear mount to the frame. So does the front diff mount. Even if it does move a fraction of an inch how is that going to help the traction problem. I can see on a solid axle car if the springs wrap up due to the housing twisting but the trailing arm is totally independent of the diff housing. Just the half shaft and that is rotating anyway. I'm not sold at all on the traction bar helping me out. If anyone can dispute or clue me in to how this works better let me know.
just guessin here but isnt wheel hop uncontrolled vibration of the suspension?
Why wouldnt you try different tire pressure (different freq) or different shocks (damping) or different tires or a different spring rate or preload....
As you turn, weight is lifted from the inside wheel and the leaf spring is decompressed, pushing it down. At the same time, the outside wheel/ spring is being compressed. This creates body roll (leaning to the outside). As this happens, a stabilizer bar tries to compress the inside spring, and decompress the outside spring to level the rear end. God bless, Sensei
This happens in a straight line.
I have had different shocks on the car a 330# rear spring and now a 420# rear spring. 3 different sets of tires different sizes and 15,17,and now 18 inch tires. A rear stabilizer bar and no rear bar.
Your car may have emotional problems, seek professional help! But seriously, you may have something like a u-joint binding, a problem with the wheels themselves, the trailing arms, there is a lot of stuff back there. Good luck.
As you turn, weight is lifted from the inside wheel and the leaf spring is decompressed, pushing it down. At the same time, the outside wheel/ spring is being compressed. This creates body roll (leaning to the outside). As this happens, a stabilizer bar tries to compress the inside spring, and decompress the outside spring to level the rear end. God bless, Sensei
I think the wheel hop Gordonm is talking about occurs during straight line acceleration, not when you turn. I think have the same problem he is talking about because I was part of the previous thread.
I am going to try a traction/stabilizer bar. My theory is that the IRS is only so stiff and can handle only a certain amount of torque to the rear wheels. When that threshhold is exceeded, the built up force is unloaded to the wheels and drops below the threshhold, and the cycle starts over again - quickly, of course. The rapid load-unload causes the wheel hop.
That's my theory, and I'm sticking to it.
...unless, of course, someone has a better theory that won't make me feel like I made a mistake buying a traction/stabilizer bar.
Your car may have emotional problems, seek professional help! But seriously, you may have something like a u-joint binding, a problem with the wheels themselves, the trailing arms, there is a lot of stuff back there. Good luck.
I have brand new u-joints, newly professionally rebuilt trailing arms, new half shafts, etc. I don't think those are the cause of the wheel hop problem.
My wheel hop problem did not start until I put on new full length headers and got my timing and carb tuned. My GMPP 350 crate engine is putting a lot more torque to the rear wheels now then it was before I had wheel a hop problem.
Verrrrry interesting topic. I had this problem on my '68 Vert L-79, when running street tires. I have never had any wheel-hop on my coupe, with street or drag tires. I attributed this to the anemic L-79 not making enough torque to firmly plant the rear. Both my 'Vert and coupe have identical V/B 550 lb. front and 7 leaf steel rear springs. G/L
Oh brother... will you please get the #$%^& bar and give it a try! seriously, I think the "stabilization bar" and maybe differant shocks should show some improvement.....Stiffer shocks should dampen and help with the T/A's upward movement, your getting alot of bite from those tires initally then the hopping occurs, like a funny car....did you give VB a call?
I have the same problem,and here is what I think has happened.
I did not have any what so ever!! Wheel hop when I had the stock 30 year old t/a bushings!!
I put in poly like eveyone else had done and then wheel hop started.
I installed the traction bar no difference! Wasted money!
If those bushings weren't such a pain in the azz I would go back to the stock rubber.
This just my 2 cents,
Happy Hopping
My thoughts exactly on the traction bar. My diff is mounted quite rigid, I can't imagine any bar making it stiffer. I have urethane everywhere exept the front trailing arm bushings. I still think if the diff rotates slightly how is that going to make the outer part of the trailing arm bounce. The two are not connected. Just by the halfshaft and that is rotating anyway.
I would try more air pressure in the rear tires. If you think about it, the tire is supposed to be round and between the weight of the car and the torque of the engine the tires get compressed into the pavement very rapidly causing the tires not to be round for a split second. As the "un-round" tire makes a complete revolution the energy is transmitted to the shocks to compensate for the inbalancement. It looks like you tried everything else but I would mess around with tire pressure. Or, it might be the way your starting the burnout. It sounds like your mashing the pedal and the shocks can't keep up with the movement. Try to gradually spin the tires up and see what happens.
This may be really way out there in left field but could the problem have nothing to do with the dif mounting and be caused by something else?
Try this one out.
When you stand on the gas and load the halfshafts the torque tries to lift the wheel from the ground which causes IRS cars to "squat". What happens if your differential does not apply power to both shafts equally? Would the loaded wheel lift raising this end of the transverse spring which would apply more weight to the opposite end of the spring effectively transferring traction to the opposite wheel. If this end then lifted from the torque traction would transfer again. If this load transfers back and forth rapidly cauing the wheel to slip then bite could this not cause the wheelhop?
Like I said may be way out there but I wonder about the posi working correctly
This may be really way out there in left field but could the problem have nothing to do with the dif mounting and be caused by something else?
Try this one out.
When you stand on the gas and load the halfshafts the torque tries to lift the wheel from the ground which causes IRS cars to "squat". What happens if your differential does not apply power to both shafts equally? Would the loaded wheel lift raising this end of the transverse spring which would apply more weight to the opposite end of the spring effectively transferring traction to the opposite wheel. If this end then lifted from the torque traction would transfer again. If this load transfers back and forth rapidly cauing the wheel to slip then bite could this not cause the wheelhop?
Like I said may be way out there but I wonder about the posi working correctly
I understand what you are saying but everything in the posi is rebuilt and new about 1K miles ago. It did it with the old rebuilt 4.11 gears and then a worn out 3.70 rear then with a 3.70 rebuilt rear.
I think I'll try varying air pressures and work on my driving, feathering the throttle. It is getting cold here so I don't have much time left before I tear iit apart this winter for some more mods.
I think the poly bushings make the suspension work too free.With the rubber bushings the suspension tries to come back to a certain point -the poly doesnt have this memory.
Gordon have you tried the 2 plates across the diff. support that makes it solid? http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=533
Last edited by ...Roger...; Dec 9, 2006 at 09:20 AM.