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Is there any kind of spacer or washer that goes between the top frame and where it mounts to the body behind the door? I am trying to install the top that was sitting under the deck for the last 16 years, and when I set it in to bolt it to the car, there seems to be a large space bewtween the top frame and the mount locations. I can get it bolted to it since there is enough flexibility in the top frame, but I want to make sure what the correct mounting is. Also...adjusting the top, should I latch it at all points, then tighten the bolts? Not to sound stupid, but (I know it does), do you latch the windshield header latches first, then the rear?
Do you mean to slide the adjustment up so the top is about 1/2 inch above the window? Do you have the front and rear latched when making the height adjustment?
No spacers. Your top side irons should bolt directly to the mounting area in the lower rear section of the birdcage. And yes, make your final adjustments to the mounting bolts after securing the latches, front first, then rear.
According to the owners handbook, you latch the rear first, then the front. This is the way I do it and it works fine. I just recently did my top. A origional from e-bay. Basically, I tried to make sure all parts of the frame were steight, or curved correctly. Then latch front and rear, and raise up the mounting plates on the door jams to get the correct window height. In order to get the rear bow to center on the body I did use some shims. Otherwise, the frame was in alot of tortional stress. Body out of wack or soft top frame bent? Who knows. It works correctly now.
While on the "shrunk" subject, what's the best way to stretch the top a little? Also, what is the best way to adjust the front latches? How much tension should be at the header latches?
Last edited by ctrain22; Dec 11, 2006 at 01:10 PM.
Heat gun, or a day in the hot sun. Should make the fabric stretch more. But an old top is just that, more brittle, more likely to tear. You ought to consider replacing it. Good quality vinyl tops are not expensive, and you can install it in a weekend with the help of the Al Knoch installation video, an air stapler, and a heat gun.
I plan on replacing the top in the spring. I just want to be able to drive it around for now. I have other projects to do that require more of a priority and money do do right now.
No matter how hard I pushed down on the rear, I could not get the rear pins to catch. I took Glenkov's suggestion, and read my owners manual, and unlatched the header latches, lathced the rear first and then the header latches and that worked. Now the top is on. I am hoping it will stretch out now.