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That I have read & understand,if hood scoop is located in middle
of hood, you will not get a ram air effect. GM did a wind test
(mid 60's) and found on a corvette, the only ram air effect was
at the base of the windshield. The L-88 cold air induction System
was born."And now you know,The rest of the story"!
OK interesting information...
Maybe I should qualify it a bit more...
1 I'm not puttig that gismo in the hood, I'm putting it in the license plate hole as to not detract from my cooling air management, if I were to put a hole in the hood it would be a naca duct
2 I'm looking more for cold air, any ram effect will be a plus
3 I got a Monster air dam
4 its a wild azz guess that any leading edge exposed to airflow will have some "dynamic pressure"
5 I can say Bernoulli
I've heard of some flat tubbing used to build an exhaust system for lowered cars. Something like this. http://www.drgas.com/store/home.php?cat=8 Alittle pricey but you get the idea. Maybe something like those frame clearance tubes. Maybe they make similar tubes out of aluminum and you can use those 3" flatten'd peices right at the bottom of the radiator. That would give you some additional ground clearance. will flow just as much as a perfectly round 3" tube but only takes up half the clearance.
Just a thought.
DR Gas is only steel as far as I can tell...
I could cut some tube and tig it back together with flat to make oval but I have something in the 3-4" range under the rad and loads of room in the nose for a lightweight airbox.
Has anyone ever cut out the holes thet hold water on the LT-1?
Wouldn't do much for induction, but I wonder about venting the heat from the underhood area? I'd be very interested to hear experiences with this. I'm loath to cut my original; hood, but I've already repaired a 14" hole some idiot cut in it before I got it, so it's not a virgin a all!
I like that! What size air cleaner is that, 14"? Where did you get the air box? Running under a stock hood?
1. Yes, its a Moroso 14" air cleaner
2. Its a circle track fiberglass box that I modified to fit over the HEI - can't find the catelog right now...sorry
3. Yes, I got it under my stock hood, but I did have to modify it slightly. I cut 2 oval holes in the back edge under the cowl area. Looks stock when the hood is down.
An induction system that draws from the back of the hood won't work on my '80 with a stock hood. The flow forward is blocked off and too low to modify.
I don't want to pay $130 for the chamber, $600 for an aftermarket hi-rise hood, plus paint, etc., etc.
The bumper mounted duct at the beginning of this tread isn't going to work on an '80 either because the whole area behind the bumper cover is solid all the way across.
I am back to designing a system that pulls unheated air from ahead of the radiator and duct it between the radiator and hood. I have plenty of room for an air cleaner box up front because I don't have any vacuum junk up there for headlights. (The Firebird Trans Am headlight motors take up very little room.) I will probably make the system out of fiberglass.
An induction system that draws from the back of the hood won't work on my '80 with a stock hood. The flow forward is blocked off and too low to modify.
Are you sure, my hood is pretty low profile? The air entering the holes actually flows over the rear internal brace of the hood (less than 2" gap). I would think your hood would be manufactured similarly. It's not a huge area, but when compared to the size of a carb's ventures I figured it was large enough.
Are you sure, my hood is pretty low profile? The air entering the holes actually flows over the rear internal brace of the hood (less than 2" gap). I would think your hood would be manufactured similarly. It's not a huge area, but when compared to the size of a carb's ventures I figured it was large enough.
Yes, I'm sure. I just looked again to be sure. The bottom edge of the rear internal brace is about 1" below the top edge of the firewall. I thought about cutting down the firewall but can't because the wiper motor is mounted 1/2" below the edge. There is <1/2" between the top edge of the firewall and the outer skin of the hood when the hood is closed, and the hood stiffener is below that.
The original engine in my car had dual air ducts to an enclosed air cleaner bowl. The air ducts connected to a wide flat center duct that went over the top of the radiator. The stock air cleaner didn't fit on my GMPP crate, so I couldn't use any of the cool air ducts to the carb. My engine sucks heated air from the engine compartment.
Yes, I'm sure. I just looked again to be sure. The bottom edge of the rear internal brace is about 1" below the top edge of the firewall. I thought about cutting down the firewall but can't because the wiper motor is mounted 1/2" below the edge. There is <1/2" between the top edge of the firewall and the outer skin of the hood when the hood is closed, and the hood stiffener is below that.
The original engine in my car had dual air ducts to an enclosed air cleaner bowl. The air ducts connected to a wide flat center duct that went over the top of the radiator. The stock air cleaner didn't fit on my GMPP crate, so I couldn't use any of the cool air ducts to the carb. My engine sucks heated air from the engine compartment.
Your loosing about 1% of your HP for every 11*F warmer the air is...
That's why I'm trying to figure out a way to get unheated air from ahead of the radiator.
I think the C5-like duct over the top of the radiator has the most potential, but Im always open to suggestions.
I don't know if there is enough room, but you could look at running ducts out thru the inner wall of the front fender wells, along the top inner corner, and out the front to get around the radiator w/o spending huge $$$'s for one of the C5 ducts ... man those things seam expensive. Maybe use some brake cooling duct material and tuck up nice and tight in the corner away from the tire.
I can fabricate a low and wide snorkel to go between one of the single/wide units to the top of the radiator. I think I have a couple of inches if height to work with there. If not, I can use a Y-type unit and run dual snorlels behind the radiator, down and under or around the radiator. I don't have a fan on my engine (electric puller only), so I have room to work with.
I just checked my options under the hood. It looks like I can use the 17" x 3" air box with the 17x3 rectangular tube (#14x3SC at http://www.ramairbox.com/models.html) on the filter base I have now with flat or 3/4" rise coverI already have too.
I will need to make a snorkel that goes from 22" x 1 3/4" in front narrowed and heightened to fit the 17 x 3 box tube.
The snorkel will mount to the underside of the radiator support and the air box. Fiberglass with a 1/8" Divinycell foam core (for stiffness) will probably be easiest. I will need something to absorb flex and twist somewhere along the way, probably at the snorkel-box junction.
The whole project will cost less than $200. I'll can save that much by spring when I will get to this project.
i doubt it would hav any "Ram" qualities, but would it be bossible to some screening in the air vent behind the front wheels and plumb your way up to your air filter? it would be cold air, thats for sure, but its facing the wrong way to b "Ram" at all, unless it has some wierd air flow to the vents, if its been done post some pics, if it can be done, elaberate, i was just reading the thread and got to thinking
i doubt it would hav any "Ram" qualities, but would it be bossible to some screening in the air vent behind the front wheels and plumb your way up to your air filter? it would be cold air, thats for sure, but its facing the wrong way to b "Ram" at all, unless it has some wierd air flow to the vents, if its been done post some pics, if it can be done, elaberate, i was just reading the thread and got to thinking
randommj
I think that is a vent/extractor for hot Engine air
i just went out and looked in and it runs into the wheel well, then turns in and goes into a small 3x3 whole, it cant be doing much at all, you could clear that out and hav it be an actual hot air extractor or put the ducting in and hav cold air go to the air filter
I did this for getting more air to the rad...not sure if it helps reduce ambient heat underhood,but coolant temps reduced by 4-5 F at highway speeds with my old C/B rad...