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Partial Panel Replacement

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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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Default Partial Panel Replacement

I'm have to replace the front half of my right front quarter panel. I have a replacement panel that I will be installing from approximately the center of the wheel forward. I was wondering if there was any alternative to purchasing a full-length bonding strip for $80. Is there any alternative? Can I possibly back it with layers of fiberglass as if was repairing a crack? I'm gessing no but, if there is anyone who has done a similar job without the typical bonding strip, please let me know what method you used. Is there any type of fiber resin board that can be heated and bent to the proper contour?
Thanks,
Jeff
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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I think the question is whether or not you want your car to maintain its original look. You can fiberglass the panels together, though, to answer your question.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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Thanks,
Will simply fiberglassing the panel be a lasting repair? Is the bonding strip needed for its rigidity?
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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The bonding strip is required, and IMO the only way to do the repair is to replace the whole panel.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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I would go with the bonding strip. It's the right way to go.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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He's saying the right front quarter - I assume he means the fender. He also says his replacement panel is not the entire fender. To my knowledge there is no bonding strip in the middle of the fender.

The '77 body is SMC (sheet molded compound) and fiberglass resin will not stick good enough. You need SMC adhesive, Evercoat makes pretty good stuff that comes in a 1qt can. It doesn't require the expensive mixing applicator gun like 3M (Duramix).

If you want it to look 'correct' I'd replace the entire fender and glue at the stock bonding strips. If you glue the replacement panel that you already have and use fiberglass mat and the Evercoat glue it won't look correct but will be a lot cheaper and easier and good enough for the next 30 years
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 02:39 PM
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Why can't he do what that guy in the flare install on corvettefaq did? He scored the outline of the replacement panel, dropped 1" or 2", then scored a second line. Cut on the scores and you have yourself a custom made, perfectly shaped bonding strip...

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/flares/

Maybe I'm just dumb... don't know much about glass work, but that makes sense to me. Plus, it saves $80 on a bonding strip. I would think if done right, it would not show.

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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by big_G
The bonding strip is required, and IMO the only way to do the repair is to replace the whole panel.


It's actually going to be more labor intensive to section it, than to replace the whole panel. And if the spliced area isn't glued spot on, you'll have a kink that will always be there.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ahoover


It's actually going to be more labor intensive to section it, than to replace the whole panel. And if the spliced area isn't glued spot on, you'll have a kink that will always be there.
If it's done right, you'll never know it when viewing the outside. I did a '75 about 10 years ago and I saw the car recently. It still looked perfect. However, I do agree to replace the entire panel.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 03:56 PM
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The worst place to make a splice is in the center of the wheel well opening .This area is prone to stress. Not saying it can't be done strong, but time-wise it is more efficient to just do the complete panel.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 77vettejeff
I'm have to replace the front half of my right front quarter panel. I have a replacement panel that I will be installing from approximately the center of the wheel forward. I was wondering if there was any alternative to purchasing a full-length bonding strip for $80. Is there any alternative? Can I possibly back it with layers of fiberglass as if was repairing a crack? I'm gessing no but, if there is anyone who has done a similar job without the typical bonding strip, please let me know what method you used. Is there any type of fiber resin board that can be heated and bent to the proper contour?
Thanks,
Jeff
Yes and no...I replaced half (center wheel forward) of my right front fender, but I was rebonding the whole fender on to the car. I used a reproduction full length bonding strip, the rear half of my original fender, and the front half of a press-molded new front fender. I cut a bonding strip from the part of the new fender that I didn't use, bonded it all together, it's looking good.

Steve
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 05:15 PM
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I got to go with the full fender guys on this one, you will spend a lot more than $80 worth of your time fartin around with it. It can be done and can be made to look good and last a long time, but will take more time.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 05:20 PM
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Just bonding new glass/epoxy resin to old lay-up without installing a doubler behind the fender will only provide a short-term fix. that the stress in the unsupported section of the fender will fatigue rapidly. An $80 kit is by FAR the most cost effective repair... short of a fender replacement (which is what I would do).
rg
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 07:01 PM
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isn't a bonding strip fiberglass? as long as you fiberglass the front and rear of the panel it should hold fine. just like when fiberglassing on bumpers or hood scoops.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 07:12 PM
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Here is an old, old trick you might want to try.

Mark and cut out the damaged section.
Measure your old bonding strips and you cut strips out of the old fender. It is easier to grind the paint, dirt off while still in a bigger section. If you feel the strips will be too thick, you can grind them thinner.
Now you have bonding strips and they do work well and with some experience they can also look close to original
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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thanks for the replies. The entire fender is not an option. Unfortunately, I do not have enough overlap between the replacement panel and original panel to make a bonding strip. I will just but one. I'm sure it will look good. Thanks!
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