I'm sure this question has already been answered but I can't seem to search the archives right now for an answer.

I just had the trailing arms rebuilt with new poly bushings. I have new stainless steel shims to replace the originals with. I taped up the originals so I would know how thick they were and in what locations but am finding that I can't put the SS shims in like the originals were; the same thickness just won't fit.

I'm assuming this is common? Would you just put equal shims on both sides of the t-arm and let the alignment shop work it out?

Thanks.

 

ran into the exact same problem so i took off a lil on both sides till i got an alignment

 

When I replaced my arms, I had to install a piece of all thread first with two nuts inside the frame. I then turned the nuts spreading the walls of the frame apart to make room for the shims. It was a bit of a pain to do, but it sure made installation of the t-arms easier.

 

The problem is the new TA bushing assy is thicker than the old one, thats why the old ones don't fit. You can spread the frame walls if you really want to but its not necessary unless the walls are pulled in. That would have happened because the shimming was not done correctly sometime in the past. The final count on both sides will likely not be the original in the end, its just a place to start from.

 

I ran into the same problem. Remove an equal amount from both sides. If you're not going to do the alignment yourself, I would still make a measurement (even if its done visually) to set the toe prior to driving it to the alignment shop. Its better to be off a little than a lot.

 

dont mean to hijack the thread here, but what issues are raised by not getting a 4 wheel alignment promptly after trailing arm rebuild? tire wear? bearing wear?

Thanks.

Tim

 

I would think tire wear could be a factor if driven with the toe severely out of whack. Driving 5,10, or 20 miles probably wouldn't be bad. The car may handle a little weird until it gets to the shop.
Changing a few shims around so that it looks like the rear wheels are headed in the right direction should not take a lot of time. Even if only one attempt is made at getting the toe corrected, I would do it. I'm not advocating to set it to spec, but to get it closer to where it belongs. Then let the alignment shop do their work.

 

Yes to the above plus poor handling, poor gas mileage and it just will not feel right.

 

Wear on all suspension parts, tires, and driveability issues. Alignments using modern, computerized, very sensitive equipment are very good things.

 

Can you do a quality alignment yourself at home? I've been worried that I'd need to find a shop that actually understands C3s for the alignment because most people won't know what do to with it and I figured they would probably end up rigging something to get it aligned. Even if I take it to a shop, I would probably trailer it there but haven't thought that far ahead yet.

 

There are some good threads on home alignments. You'll need some tools, level work area, and some patience.
The easiest things to set are front caster/camber and rear camber, followed by front toe, and rear toe being the toughest.
To set camber and caster a bubble gauge can be purchased such as one from here http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...st.asp?catid=5. I use 2 pieces of 12" floor tile with grease in between them when setting caster; it makes turning the front wheels much easier.

Measuring toe is much harder to do. I think most people think all that is needed is a tape measure. It's not that simple. It would be adequate for getting it close until it can done properly. I made up my own measuring tool using 1/2" electical conduit. It's basically a long piece of rigid conduit with 2 pieces that slide on it. These 2 end pieces are bent to go around the tire and I make my measurements off the wheel. One end of this tool contacts the wheel and I measure how far away the other side is with a digital caliper. I measure front and back, the difference is the amount of toe. Keep in mind that you also want the steering box to be on center as well.
The same applies for the rear. Since the rear tires do not turn, both tires must be point straight ahead. In other words; the rear toe could be correct but both tires could be pointing left or right. I use Norval's method of using a laser level shooting a beam forward and measuring off the front wheels until both sides are equal.

One big disadvantage is not having a rack. The car has to jacked up to make changes , lowered, and taken around the block. Then come back and retake measurements and make adjustments.