body prep before sanding
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
body prep before sanding
I started some body work following the guide from Lars. He recomends ppg dx440 for the prep solvent. I have not been able to find this in my area so I was wondering if I could use dupont 3919s. In the tech manual for the solvent it states, "Note: Do not use on unprimed plastic or fiberglass substrates due to possible static buildup, which may cause a flash fire". I do have some unpainted fiberglass that I need to clean. So, if I make sure I work in a ventilated area, is this ok? Will it damage the fiberglass or cause a problem any layers of primer I plan to put on? Thanks, -Jeff
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I started some body work following the guide from Lars. He recomends ppg dx440 for the prep solvent. I have not been able to find this in my area so I was wondering if I could use dupont 3919s. In the tech manual for the solvent it states, "Note: Do not use on unprimed plastic or fiberglass substrates due to possible static buildup, which may cause a flash fire". I do have some unpainted fiberglass that I need to clean. So, if I make sure I work in a ventilated area, is this ok? Will it damage the fiberglass or cause a problem any layers of primer I plan to put on? Thanks, -Jeff
You'll be better off if you stop using solvents down around the last layer of original primer. You don't want any of it getting into the fiberglass. I would suggest using the solvents to get the clear, paint, and most of the primer off the body. Block sand the rest by hand. This is important because the solvents can soak into the fiberglass, and re-appear after you have finished painting the car. Just my thoughts...others may agree or disagree.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I use mostly water with a tiny bit of dish soap. Spray it on, and wipe it all down. Then make sure you have lots and lots of tack clothes to get the final bits of dust and lint off the surface right before you prime it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,357
Likes: 427
From: Seattle Area WA
I don't think water is a very good idea on bare glass, if this is a glass and not SMC car the glass will wick it right up and it will come out as blisters later. I would stick with an Acrylic Enamel Reducer like PPG DT860 or 870 or even lacquer thinner to wipe it down but it evaporates pretty darn fast to really clean well. Just give the reducer time to evaporate before top coating.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I don't think water is a very good idea on bare glass, if this is a glass and not SMC car the glass will wick it right up and it will come out as blisters later. I would stick with an Acrylic Enamel Reducer like PPG DT860 or 870 or even lacquer thinner to wipe it down but it evaporates pretty darn fast to really clean well. Just give the reducer time to evaporate before top coating.
Yeah I usually let it sit for a few days before I start priming, so I really didn't think about that water retention.
Oreilly has a product called Paint Prep that helps get what's left of the old primer dust off the surface, and it too evaporates VERY quickly. It should work just fine on fiberglass.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
If you are ready for primer, you have 2 types of contamination (water soluable and oils) to remove in order to have a clean enough surface to paint over. It takes 2 types of cleaners to remove them. Use a spray glass cleaner first to remove water soluable contamination followed with the Prep Sol you mentioned to remove solvent based contamination. Wipe on and wipe off immediately. Let the car sit for a day, then blow it off and go over it lightly with a tack rag to remove dust that has settled. Solvent alone will not remove water soluable contamination.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: Partlow VA
http://autobody101.com/forums/forum-5.html
You might want to try this web site. Great information!!! about painting and body work.
You might want to try this web site. Great information!!! about painting and body work.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 9,206
Likes: 17
From: Sewell NJ
Thanks guys. Actually, its an old picture. I have to take some new ones with the Billet Specialties valve covers and air cleaner. I have a few but they suck. I'm better at turning wrenches than pressing a shutter.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
We know that for sure now, because no one presses a shutter anymore...it's a button that tells the camera to take a digital picture. I still have some old film cameras, but it's almost too much of a hassle when I can get just as good of shots from my digital cameras.