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This probably sounds really dumb, and in TIME even I will think it is, BUT I don't yet have the manuals; so can anyone WITH a C3 (preferably circa 1980) tell me the proper jacking points for them? I am a C3 newbie still.
The C4 is easy; pretty well ANYWHERE along either 'rocker panel' and the car goes up, but the C3's rely on using part of the frame I understand, as the lifting points.
Anyone?
Thanks!
Last edited by smacko; Dec 15, 2006 at 08:42 PM.
Reason: ps
This probably sounds really dumb, and in TIME even I will think it is, BUT I don't yet have the manuals; so can anyone WITH a C3 (preferably circa 1980) tell me the proper jacking points for them? I am a C3 newbie still.
The C4 is easy; pretty well ANYWHERE along either 'rocker panel' and the car goes up, but the C3's rely on using part of the frame I understand, as the lifting points.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
There are really only 2 points recommended on each side, both directly on the frame rails, one in front of the rear wheels and the other just in front of the door line
So when you say "frame rails" you are in fact referring to the steel chassis BEHIND the rocker panel? Am not totally sure that mine is flush with the steel part due to the cars customisation...Don't know if I have posted any pics of the car here yet, but some are at:http://www.australiancorvettes.com/p...opic.php?t=707
Yes, just as motor head said. The vehicle from the outside does not look customized. I like the interior, a nice departure from the standard
C-3 interior. What type of dash is that? The paint job is also nice. I even like the hood. Dont care to much for the front end spoiler.
...I like the interior, a nice departure from the standard C-3 interior. What type of dash is that?
The dash AND spoiler are a one-off; Both are custom made by my mate who built the car back up from scratch. Car is in effect a 2 year old C3; only ~7000kms on it and tranny is now a brand new tricked up TH700-R with B&M Hammer shifter, with about 60 kilometers only on it still.
There are really only 2 points recommended on each side, both directly on the frame rails, one in front of the rear wheels and the other just in front of the door line
Jacking the car up at any other point could create indentations where the jack contacts, depending of course, on the size of the jack pad. Bottle jacks will definitely make a dent almost anywhere other than the recommended jack points on each side.
Isn't it cool how you can learn from everybody else's mistakes on the CF?
Jacking the car up at any other point could create indentations where the jack contacts, depending of course, on the size of the jack pad. Bottle jacks will definitely make a dent almost anywhere other than the recommended jack points on each side.
Isn't it cool how you can learn from everybody else's mistakes on the CF?
...That's EXACTLY why I asked the question; the paint jobs a $15,000 custom one, so as car has to go up on hoist next week, I don't PARTICULARLY want the garage to wreck it! (Call me strange...call me weird!)
PS; thanks 'ME2': You're not the first to say that about my hood emblem
if i'm putting the front of the car on jackstands i also put a jack under the crossmember that goes under the engine just to help support the front end.
if i'm putting the front of the car on jackstands i also put a jack under the crossmember that goes under the engine just to help support the front end.
Good idea. In this instance however, the car's only going up briefly on a lift for it's 'safety Inspection' so that I can re-register it.
Coincidentally; I picked up the manuals from the cars previous owner yesterday afternoon, so now have the diagram in the book...Thanks so much for your trouble though, and for the next C3 'newbie' that comes along, I'll add the following to go with the diagram above, as also mentioned earlier:
Axle stand points are 3 inches in FRONT or rearmost rocker panel and 5 inches forward of front of doors.