I know that this question has been asked a thousand times, but could someone please explain to me what I'm checking for and the best way to check for worn ball joints, tie rods ends, or wheel bearings? I have the car jacked up in the front with the front end free. I grab the tire at 12 o clock and 6 o clock and push with one hand and pull with another. I don't feel any play or movement. I do the same with my hands at 9 o clock and 3 o clock and I feel a slight amount of play and a clunking sound. Does this mean the tie rods are bad? The results are the same for both sides of the front end. Should there be a little play in the joints? I'm confused any help would be great.

 

Best way to ck lower ball joints is with a jack under the control arm. With all the weight off front end and jackstands under frame, the ball joints are under tension from the springs and it's hard to tell much. So either stick a jack under one control arm, or make sure jackstands are under control arms to take tension off ball joints. THEN....get a big prybar....like the 4 ft handle off your floorjack and stick it under tire and lift upwards to check for play in lower ball joints.

The upper ones are a little trickier. This is all easier with two people..one to pry and one to watch stuff. With wheel off and jackstand under lower arms, you can put a prybar between upper arm and frame and lift up and down to look for wear in upper joints. With wheel on, you can get someone to lift with big bar under tire and try to look real close at uppers for any movement. Any up and down movement of the ball stud within the joint socket is cause for replacement.

The upper and lower bushings are going to be a visual ck. Look for any rubber tearing or worn/oblong looking holes where bolts/shafts go through.

Steering linkage is best checked with both wheels on the ground...but it's pretty tough to see that way. Another way is to raise one side and leave the other wheel on the ground. Then have someone shake the steering wheel and look for play and slop. Having one wheel on the ground puts some tension on the linkage and shows up slop easier. the next thing to do is to grab onto tie rods and push in the direction of the joint and look for play. On the outers, that will be pushing and pulling directly vertical. On the inners you will be pushing and pulling towards the front and rear of the car. ANY in/out movement in the socket requires replacement. If you can't get any help...do the same as you did before..grab wheel at 3/9 oclock and shake looking for movement. But again..it's tough to shake and look at the same time. But key is to have at least one wheel stationary so that wear in linkage will show up.

You will likely find play in the idler arm. It wears usually. Do the same..push up and down on the linkage and look for it to move up and down when someone is shaking the wheel as described above. Any movement will make it drive real sloppy.

There might also be play at the connection of the drag link to the pitman arm on the steering box. Good news is there is a screw adjuster on the end of it and you can adjust it tighter as needed.

The other areas of play are the steering box itself. careful adjustment can eliminate a lot of play. It doesn't take much.'

Also check the *rag joint* where steering box attaches to column. Hold onto shaft going into steering box and have someone wiggle steering wheel to see if there is play. It's easy to rebuild/replace the rag joint.

Grabbing wheel at 6/12 oclock is a good check for wheel bearings. Should be none to very little movement.

Hopefully this gets you going in right direction.


JIM

 

427's answer on the ball joints was correct. RE the movement you get along with the clunk, when you move the wheel side to side: It will be something within the tie rod assembly. Get another pair of eyes to look at the assembly while you move the tire between 3:00 and 9:00 like you were doing.

By 'whole assembly' what I am referring to is everything between the front spindles on the tie rod. You will have inner and outer tie rod ends, a sleeve between them where the toe-in is adjusted, then also the drag link and the knuckle where it attaches to the Pitman Arm. Make sure the Pitman Arm is tight on the steering box sector shaft.

Of course while you are there, watch for vertical movement on the Idler Arm. It should have no discernable play if you try to move it up and down by hand.

These parts are rather inexpensive and not hard to change (except the Pitman Arm) so if the car has a few miles on it, just do yourself a favor and replace them all.

 

Thanks very much to both of you guys. I have a much better understanding of the front-end now. I really appreciate all the help. The guy I bought the car from said the front-end was recently worked on. I can see that it has new upper and lwr control arm bushings. The front tires are showing a lot of wear on the outter edges and the wheel does feel a little sloppy. What worries me the most is that there are no alignment shims behind the left upper control arm mount. I guess I should rip it apart and replace everything. Tim