I'm putting EFI on my new motor and it will probably run like crap till I find someone to setup a new ECU profile for it...I just can't go back to a carb though.

 

First question: Where did you get your data log program? I'm interested in getting one (it's not safe to be driving with my scanner in my lap, and trying to read it at the same time. Plus the one you posted that was on a spread sheet was a lot better than looking at a few parameters at a time on my scanner.

Second Question: Have you pulled any new data logs, and what do they look like?

 

You might want to wait until release 2.0.... (There have been quite a few problems with users of the first type including a less than optimum review in one of the car mags.)

 

i haven't done another datalog since the first one, but at that time I had an electrical problem (alternator), plugs fouled, and PVC wasn't hooked up.

Something from the above (I think) caused my engine to run rich and dump too much gas into my engine, got in my oil and fouled the brand new bosch plugs I bought.

I've since hooked up the pvc, changed the oil, added a new powermaster alternator, and AC delco plugs....I don't think it's running rich anymore since I pulled the plugs to do a compression test and they were clean. All my cylinders except for number 4 showed a 150-152, number 4 showed 121....possibly the source of my miss.

I'm going to fix that before I pull another datalog.....hopefully it irons itself out


I got my cable / software from here....the cable came with a disc that had several prgrams on it. Took about three days to get.

http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/details.asp?item=aldlobd1u

 

The only issue I have had to date is an intermittent (soft) trouble code #43: Electrinic spark control / knock sensor error. I have checked the connections, and I have a knock sensor for a 350ci engine
I have had trouble finding the problem since it has only thrown the code 4 times, and in all my attempts to reproduce the condition, it fails to trip the code.
I have even removed the sensor, and put a different sealer on the threads. I'll figure it out as it is probably something simple I'm overlooking, but any suggestions are welcome.
But on another note, I filled up today, and got just under 17mpg around town, even with eccessive use of the loud pedal .
I just need an excuse for a some extended highway miles.

 

Thanks for the link that is just what I was looking for

How is the plug on the #4 CYL?

 

Hard to tell, I replaced them w/o checking my old one But I can say that if it was something out of the ordinary or extremely different than the others I would have noticed it. The others looked fairly fine.

 

Is there anything online with details about these criticisms? I was planning on using one of those pumps for my 412 fuelie.

 

By the way, found a good link about that.

http://www.strokerkits.com/piston_fuel_pump.htm

scroll to the bottom.

"RacePump maintains fuel pressure with the engine off for easier starting. "

 

Just saw your post, thanks. I'd be anxious to hear how it works out for you.

 

I have been driving the Corvette with the TPI for nine months now, and I have had very few problems. Of which was an intermittent code [failur to achieve timing] for the knock sensor that hasn't re-occured in almost 500 miles. I am thinking it might be caused by a bad coil that I replaced, or low fuel pressure. I might need an adjustable regulator since I only have 45psi, and I have been told that my chip might be burned for 60 psi. Since it hasn't re-occured in some time I can't be sure.
The fuel milage has varied by about 4 mpg. Around 14mpg being the low, and a little over 18 being the high. I know this has alot to do with my driving habits, and traffic. Most of the driving I have done since the TPI Conversion has been short trips under 30 miles with alot of city driving. The average speed per trip (GPS) has usually been under 45 mph. I think If I was a little more conservitive with the throttle the numbers would go up, but then I wouldn't be having as much fun.
I need to just take it on a road trip, and see how it does then to get a better figure on highway milage.

DR. Jay

 

I have finally cured the intermittent trouble code #43 (electronic spark control fault).
I found that Bubba had been in the wire harness from the donor vehicle. Bubba had the connector for the Knock Sensor & 6 inches of white wire soldered to the (black) wire for the coolant fan switch. The color of the Knock Sensor wire to the ESC module is (white).
This now explains why the fan relays on the donor car were wired to a switch in the cabin. Hey Bubba the knock sensor is not going to turn on the fans. I found the white wire to the ESC module cut & taped up about 6" in the harness.

I can partially understand the mistake as the Fan switch connector & Knock Sensor connector are the same. Also the switch and sensor are a few inches from each other on the donor car. What I can't understand, and probably never will, is why tape up the white wire into the harness, and not attach it to the Knock Sensor

I was getting the intermittent trouble code because the ECM does an ESC module & Knock sensor test every ignition cycle when two perameters are met.
The engine must be operating above 194*f , and throttle position must be open 75% or more. When these two conditions are met the ECM will advance the timing, and check for knock. If the ECM doesn't get a signal from the ESC module that it is recieving a signal from the Knock Sensor the ECM will set a fault code #43.

I do feel like a moron for not doing a continuity check test of the Knock Sensor wiring I was just doing a visual check of the connections. If I had done the test I would have found the problem months ago. I've learned my lesson. (If Bubba has been there check everything, as things may not be what they appear to be)

Dr. Jay the humbled.

 

DrJay.....don't worry over it, try having troubles related to bad grounding....cause YOU? ME in this case miswired grounds by using one ground wire for two purposes, and jumpered near the computer....

causing all sorts of un diagnose able problems.....

 

Thanks for the reassurance Gene
To tell you the truth I'm actually proud of myself for curing the problem even if I took the long way around to find it.

My first conversion to MPI was a project '86 S-10 4x4 pickup from TBI to MPI.
I fought a "cranks but no start" problem for a week strait. I thought I checked everything looking for the problem (No spark) I tested ignition modules, ECM, fuses, wiring, hall effect sensors etc. I went to pull the ignition module to retest, and had the brand new cap off the distributor and it was sitting upside down when I noticed that the rotor contact button was non existent I felt like a total dunce for over looking it. Since that time I have a new rule when trouble shooting
"Just because it is a new part doesn't mean that it is functional!"

Jason

 

This is carzy, I've never EVER heard of that happening. I pulled mine in the garage last Friday night, Saturday morning wouldn't start, crank but no ignition. I checked all over the place for the problem....finally I happened to look inside the cap and the button was gone. It had broken off, just like yours. When I pulled the cap it fell on the manifold where I found it later.

I'm glad I'm not the only one with the "Curse"!

Bill

 

Your not alone. The forum is your support group
That was the first time I had an experiance like that, but it wasn't the last.
A month ago I had a new set of spark plug wires for a '98 Jeep CJ that didn't have the metal contacts for the plugs inside the boots. I cought that before I installed the wires when I was applying the dielectric grease to the boots.

 

My TBI firebird used to throw that code when the HEI module was on its last legs, also if you're running the distributor that came with the TPI F-Body, if it just dies on you one day, that HEI control module is the culprit, so carry a spare one with you (I've had like 6 go bad on me).

Otherwise it looks like an awesome setup. I know Dr. Jay's setup was from a free donor car, but how much have the others who've done this swap spent?

Just read your last post Dr. Jay:
Sucks when bubba gets hold of a wrench and some duct tape, doesn't it?

A friend of mine with a 327HO equipped Camaro had a "heater problem" in that it was always on. Later we found out that bubba had cut a 4" x 4" hole into the firewall on the drivers side.

Glad you found the issue.

OH! By the way, I remember this from my days in FBodys, but PROM programmers can be found for $250, and they hook right up to a USB port on your computer. I'll have to dig out the links for you, but I can get them if you'd like to start dabbling in programming the ECM for your custom application, possibly picking up a bit more power and better fuel economy.

 

I am thinking about attempting this
1982 Crossfire Injection -> TPI Injection conversion

I am concerned about:
wiring
throttle cable
TV cable
Fuel lines / pump


IS an auxilary fuse block required?
not sure about throttle cable / TV cable
Is the C3 fuel pump easy to get to, I would install a walbro...

Wiring is the worst, Im not really sure about wiring up check engine lights and speed sensors... and the O2 sensor, oh my god I can only imagine pulling out a rusty exhaust piece to weld in a bung.

 

'82 can be done. I would send out your engine harness for conversion to either Howell or Street and Performance and I would set it up for Speed Density. You already have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust that you can use. The pump is in the tank on an '82, so just swap it to a TPI pump (use '89 IROC as an application). You just need a TV cable for a TPI F-body or C4 Vette and a throttle cable for a C4. You may have clearance issues with the hood on an '82 due to the intake to top of throttle bodies, I'm not sure. I would replace your rubber fuel lines with new fuel injection line, they are basically 30 years old now.

 

Thank you VERY MUCH!
Speed Density it is, I didnt know about the o2 sensor!,

how hard is the fuel pump to remove? is there an access hatch? I am unfamiliar with the corvette.

now i know which tv and throttle cable to get!
and I am warned about the hood issue!

Yes the replacement of the fuel lines makes sense. Is there any line I dont know about besides whats under the hood?
You mean the rubber by the tank probably, I would expect there to be some. I wonder how hard it is to get to both ends for replacing this or if the tank needs to drop?

and... can you be more specific about HOWELL? I am not sure what this is, or street and performance?