When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I actually ended up going with a 90-92 speed density set-up so after it was said and done I went with one of those K & N conical breathers.
I have a dual spal fan set-up, no mech fan plenty of elbow room now.
I do have one question....what did you do for the throttle cable? I bought a TPI f-body cable but the end that connects to the firewall is a little bigger in size so that means I'll have to enlarge the factory opening some. Plus the cable is a little too long, it will still work, just will be curled a bit in the engine compartment.
One more question, did you re-use the stock upper radiator hose? The TPI set-up puts the thermostat housing at a weird angle and the stock hose is a little too long. I'm thinking of trimming it.
I bought a steel braided flexible hose but it's a hair too short and the huge clamp covers look funny on the short tpi thermostat neck....it's a little too small for the hose too begin with and I'm afraid it'll leak.
Originally Posted by PatsLs1vette
I used the same thing when i did my tpi but didnt rivet it just filed it and snapped it into place
but used a upper 96 caprice radiator hose and trimmed it and fit fine.
And when i removed it from my 73 and installed it in a 80 vette i did the same thing and fit fine.
My cable just didn't seem to hold against the fire wall even with filing a notch as well as I thought it should. So I rivited it for added insurance.
The '87 cable sheath was a tad bit long, and that might have been the issue, but it works very well now with no binding, and full throttle function.
OK, up and over pix are taken just now, and I will start a thread, but since I can't figger out how to post pix here, I will add to my site so you all can see if you want....
it's still not totally cleaned up and finalized, but what hotrod/work in progress ever IS???
I wanted to post a pic of my install, I'm hoping to have it fired up sometime this afternoon.
I wanted to thank DR Jay for the inspiration, it was reading on this thread that helped me make the jump to EFI. (My car had a carb on it when I bought it.)
I'll make a thread and do a write up of my experiences when I'm done
I wanted to post a pic of my install, I'm hoping to have it fired up sometime this afternoon.
I wanted to thank DR Jay for the inspiration, it was reading on this thread that helped me make the jump to EFI.
(My car had a carb on it when I bought it.)
I'll make a thread and do a write up of my experiences when I'm done
I'm glad I was an inspiration I just wanted to post an informative thread as a way of passing along the knowledge that some of the other members here had given me.
Thanks for the kudos.
You look like you are doing great. The red, and polished runners look
I wanted to post a pic of my install, I'm hoping to have it fired up sometime this afternoon.
I wanted to thank DR Jay for the inspiration, it was reading on this thread that helped me make the jump to EFI. (My car had a carb on it when I bought it.)
I'll make a thread and do a write up of my experiences when I'm done
Looking good. While the TPI does have some flow restrictions in high-RPM situations, it's one of the coolest-looking intakes ever...and it is a pretty good performer.
...are you still using EGR and the fuel vapor canister purge on your set-up?
On my Vette I am not using either. On my truck I am using canister purge, but not EGR. If you use a C4 TPI intake and want to use EGR you have to use C4 exhaust manifolds or modify headers to have an exhaust source. C4 TPI intakes (or aluminum heads) do not have a center-of-head source for exhaust, F-body intakes do. I like the canister purge. You can keep the system non-vented then. If you don't use canister purge then swap to a vented gas cap.
Quick question...are you still using EGR and the fuel vapor canister purge on your set-up?
The EGR valve is still on the intake, but it is not connected. The custom prom I had burned eliminated the emissions so I don't have the computer controled canister purge or smog pump, but the orrigional Vapor Canister is still on the car, and is hooked up to vacuum, and the fuel tank.
...........C4 ECMs are mounted under the hood...........
The same 7727 ECM was used on a bunch of vehicles. All you need is the 350 V8 memcal programmed for your engine specs, and you're good to go. No need to find one that came specifically from a Corvette.
I just saw this thread and saw that you did an in tank electric fuel pump install.
My question is, why didn't you save yourself some time and effort and just use a piston pump from www.racepumps.com ? You could have retained all of your stock fuel lines and such and not had to drop your tank and still have plenty of fuel pressure for probably less money and work.
I just saw this thread and saw that you did an in tank electric fuel pump install.
My question is, why didn't you save yourself some time and effort and just use a piston pump from www.racepumps.com ? You could have retained all of your stock fuel lines and such and not had to drop your tank and still have plenty of fuel pressure for probably less money and work.
To answer that, I had replaced the fuel lines when I did the body off with solid steel lines, and didn't want to cut them.
On my '78 you can remove the sender through the rear deck if you remove the flip up lid to the fuel filler. The new in tank carter fuel pump, and strainer cost less than $50.oo for the set with a lifetime warranty.
Thats alot less than the $99.oo www.racepumps.com starts at for a piston pump.
I like to fabricate so the two or so hours I had into converting the existing sender into a in-tank sender, and installing it was honestly good theropy for me.
I started the project on 12-22-06, and had it running on 12-29-06. If I didn't have to wait for parts shipments, and the holidays, I would have had it up, and running in about 24 hours of strait labor.
Actually the cheapest pump they sell is like $300. $100 is for their regulator.
I'm mainly not a big fan of electric fuel pumps because I fear them burning out or, with an intake pump, them starving for fuel around a tight corner if you don't have enough gas in tank. Plus they kinda make your tank hold less, in theory, because you can't let it go below a few gallons or else you risk the pump burning out. With a mechanical pumps you don't have any of those problems.
I didn't realize you did a whole body off, though. Since you were already in that process you might as well go that route. I just personally dislike electric fuel pumps for the reasons I already mentioned.
I'm working on mating an LT1 intake to my vortec heads and am going to use the piston pump because the part itself may cost more, but the work involved is A LOT less.
I just saw this thread and saw that you did an in tank electric fuel pump install.
My question is, why didn't you save yourself some time and effort and just use a piston pump from www.racepumps.com ? You could have retained all of your stock fuel lines and such and not had to drop your tank and still have plenty of fuel pressure for probably less money and work.
Have you actually used this pump?? It looks like a great idea, someone posted a reference to this a while ago, maybe it was you. If so, how well does it work out at startup before the engine is running, the electric provides pressure by just turning the key on, with this you have to at least crank the motor for pressure.
I think you said you went with speed density instead of MAF. Reason behind that? I'm planning on going with MAF as I like the fact that the computer doesn't need to be completely reconfigured for engine changes with it. Comment?
I think you said you went with speed density instead of MAF. Reason behind that? I'm planning on going with MAF as I like the fact that the computer doesn't need to be completely reconfigured for engine changes with it. Comment?
I have the MAF. It was what was on the donor car, and I agree with you about not having to reconfigure the prom with every engine mod as it would have to be done with a speed density system.
The engine in my Vette has been rebuilt prior to my purchasing the car, and I don't have any idea what kind of internals it has (pistons, cam, rocker ratio, etc) and the MAF system has worked great.
What I was truly surprised about during the conversion was with the '87 f-body wire harness, and how well it fit into the C-3 engine bay.
Actually the cheapest pump they sell is like $300. $100 is for their regulator.
I'm mainly not a big fan of electric fuel pumps because I fear them burning out or, with an intake pump, them starving for fuel around a tight corner if you don't have enough gas in tank. Plus they kinda make your tank hold less, in theory, because you can't let it go below a few gallons or else you risk the pump burning out. With a mechanical pumps you don't have any of those problems.
I didn't realize you did a whole body off, though. Since you were already in that process you might as well go that route. I just personally dislike electric fuel pumps for the reasons I already mentioned.
I'm working on mating an LT1 intake to my vortec heads and am going to use the piston pump because the part itself may cost more, but the work involved is A LOT less.
Oops, I didn't read it correctly
Got pics of the LT1 on the heads, or have you not gotten that far yet?