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Replacing wire harness

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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 10:01 AM
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Default Replacing wire harness

Has anyone ever replaced the wire harness(s) in their 69?

Im just curious as to how big a job it is and if it can be done without doing a frame off.

Where is the best place to buy a replacement harness?

Thanks!
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 10:15 AM
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I've replace all of them on my 71. Only tough one is the dash as the dash needs to be removed along with center console. Cheapest place at the time was The Last Detail. They all come from the same harness Suppliers no matter which Vette Parts place you go to.

http://www.tld-corvette.com/oldindex.htm
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 11:20 AM
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Well, i have my dash pulled out right now for other reasons and was contemplating swapping out the dash harness while i have it apart.

Lets say i want to replace the engine harness at a later date. Would it be that much of an ordeal, or would i have to pull the dash apart again?
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 Vette
Well, i have my dash pulled out right now for other reasons and was contemplating swapping out the dash harness while i have it apart.

Lets say i want to replace the engine harness at a later date. Would it be that much of an ordeal, or would i have to pull the dash apart again?
No problem, the engine harness plugs into the bulkhead/fuseblock from the engine side so you can do each separatly. The harnesses are basically plug and play, but it will make it easier if you label all the connectors when you disconnect them.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 12:58 PM
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Got my wiring harnesses from Lectric Limited. Very pleased.

I did my engine and front light harnesses. They plug in at firewall. My engine was out so putting the harnesses in was a snap. Should be pretty simple with engine in.

The dash harness looks difficult but since you have your dash pads out it should be pretty straightforward. I would lay the new harness out on the floor before taking the old one out of the car. Compare orientation of harness and connectors. Take pictures too.

The connectors should be pretty simple. The automakers try to make it a simple as possible so assembly goes faster.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 01:04 PM
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Great info guys. Thank you very much!
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 05:54 PM
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Default 68 wiring harness bulkhead connectors

Is there a trick to disconnecting the connectors or am I missing something? I removed the center bolt but the connectors still won't pull out. It's hard to tell where they come apart at.
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wrencher60
Is there a trick to disconnecting the connectors or am I missing something? I removed the center bolt but the connectors still won't pull out. It's hard to tell where they come apart at.

The whole thing pulls out as one unit. Everything that appears as darker black plastic in your picture (not including the crusty looking flange) is the actual plug you will remove. The headlight harness slides out of the side of the engine harness AFTER the whole plug is out.
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 06:56 PM
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Default Thanks TSW

Thanks, I thought at least the engine side looked like it was all one piece with the plastic, I was tuggin' pretty hard and wiggling it around, I guess it is just 47 years of being in there and it wants to stay in there. I'll work at it some more and see if I can persuade it to turn loose.
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 11:20 PM
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Dash harness is the hardest due to the interior. But is usually the most needed as folks really cobble up the console wiring in these cars for some reason.

I did all of mine. No need for body to be off. Really would not help anyway unless you are replacing the positive battery cable up to the starter as well.

Take lots of good pictures of where everything runs and hangs and is supported. If your even contemplating doing the engine harness then you may as well do it now as the big black firewall bulk head connector connects to that behind the fuse panel. The warmer the wires the easier they work with.

The headlight harness is also at that bulk head and the fiber run is just below them.

That bulk head connector is probably just stuck as they have a heavy black electrical contact grease in the connector to prevent water issues. again a warm day will help that separate easier. The connectors also interlock so one actuly covers the other at the bolt to keep them fully seated.

Keep this in mind when you assemble those bulk head connectors again. If its a cold day you wont get the connectors fully seated and down the road your car will cut out. My buddy did this to himself (he is very afraid of stripping bolts and sometimes doesn't tighten his fasteners as tight as he should) car died on him and he had no power. He found that bulk head connector wasnt full seated.

Lectric limited is where I got mine. I waited for a ZIP holiday sale with free shipping.

Last edited by mysixtynine; Jun 5, 2015 at 11:26 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2015 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by tsw71
...The whole thing pulls out as one unit...
After the bolt is removed.

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