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yes. by memory, theres two male pins going through two rectangular holes on the fitting on the harness side.(eng comp side, not int side) The pins have a half arrowhead on them. If you push heads one way that would allow the harness fitting to be pulled. It's tricky because they both should be done at the same time and the placement of the whole thing isnt very easy to get at. unless the vaccume tank and master cyl and even some parts of the steering shaft are clear.
that's the concept, anyway.
It's also hard to get it off because theres lots of connected pins inside for all the wires and other surface contact that hasn't moved for 30 years that has to be overcome. So the force feels like you could wreck things even if the pins are moved the right way.
by memory, could be wrong about some points. I think they may have an exploded view of this in the assembly manuals.
Pssssssssssssst There is a bolt in between the 2 harnesses (ignition & headlamp) as they mount to the engine side of the fuse box. Usually well hidden with sealant and dirt. You will need a 3/8" socket and extension. Extreme force could break the 20-30 year old plastic connectors. They only run a few hundred dollar EACH when you buy a new harness, dash, ignition, headlamp.
Geoffrey Coenen
PS just working on my 75 I notice the GM wiring schematic left off two wires in their diagram. One goes to the starter and the other is for automatic only. I'll bet all those copied GM ebaby colored in materpieces are wrong also.
I'm having trouble removing the engine wiring harness from the connector on the firewall. Is there a trick?
Yes.
First remove the hex head bolt from the center of the engine and headlight plug at the firewall. There is probably some sealant around the plugs which should be removed. Now work both plugs loose at the same time until they are free. The plugs will slide apart now. There is a half round pin at the top part that keeps the two plugs together. Sort of like a snap. Do you have the new harness? You'll see the slide and the detent for the pin. You may get to it from the side vent.
PS just working on my 75 I notice the GM wiring schematic left off two wires in their diagram. One goes to the starter and the other is for automatic only. I'll bet all those copied GM ebaby colored in materpieces are wrong also.
Dr. Rebuild didn't mention that he is now selling some nice plastic laminated wiring diagrams that also include photos of the actual connectors at the end of wire runs. For my 1968, for complete coverage I had to buy two sheets for complete car coverage. I think they were $12.50 each (?????). I've used them for re-installing wiring on my dash harness. Photos of the actual connectors did help me solve a confusing problem as to what went were. Well worth the money since I would guess that a whole lot of work/time went into making them.
Pssssssssssssst There is a bolt in between the 2 harnesses (ignition & headlamp) as they mount to the engine side of the fuse box. Usually well hidden with sealant and dirt. You will need a 3/8" socket and extension. Extreme force could break the 20-30 year old plastic connectors. They only run a few hundred dollar EACH when you buy a new harness, dash, ignition, headlamp.
Geoffrey Coenen
PS just working on my 75 I notice the GM wiring schematic left off two wires in their diagram. One goes to the starter and the other is for automatic only. I'll bet all those copied GM ebaby colored in materpieces are wrong also.
Doc,
How do I go about getting the laminated wiring diagrams?