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I was on the highway Friday night and thought I heard something funky reverberating from the concrete barrier almost like I had an exhaust leak. The next thing I knew, I lost power almost like a plug wire got burnt by the header. I was close to home, so I limped it back there. I got a chance to check it out today, and all the plug wires looked fine. This turned out to be the culprit:
And here I thought the rumor of those new sideways rocker arms wasn't true!!!
It sure scared the hell outta me. I was praying for something simple while in the back of my mind I was thinking wiped cam lobe. Everything seems fine, but I will show the pic to the guy that installed the cam on Tuesday. I figure if he wants to take the valve covers off and replace all the nuts, I'll let him.
Stock rockers are fine. Just go by your local GM dealer and pick up a new set of nuts. If you like you can even get the long slot rockers from Chevy along with there grooved socket *****.
But I have found that you do not really need the long slots unless you have about 480 lift or more.
Even if you don't go with the rollers, I would highly recommend the polylocks. They're inexpensive and will guarantee that your "situation" won't happen again.
Even if you don't go with the rollers, I would highly recommend the polylocks. They're inexpensive and will guarantee that your "situation" won't happen again.
Poly locks are good, no question, but I have had them come loose too....
use a fresh set of chebby locks nutz from your dealer/supply house....I"m told to not reuse them....which I have, fairly successfully...but I have had them fail too, brand new OR used....
course I been working on cars for what now?? 45 years??
The setscrew type *polylocks* are great....but MAKE SURE your studs are long enough. There are a couple of versions and most don't have the threads start until way up in the nut. In those cases you will only have a few threads engaged at top of stud and it will pull them off.
They are made *deep* to allow them to drop down over the shank portion of stud if needed in some cases.
Just from the photo hard to tell, but, MOST of the rocker arm studs being manufactured by the aftermarket are using the "rolled" thread method. Not a true "machining" of them, and these studs CANNOT be used in conjunction with factory style "stock" locking nuts. Over time the nuts will become loosened. Many times you'll be lucky the nuts don't "tear" up the threads on the initial install.
There are very few vendors still making the original type studs. I must keep these here on the shelf for the stock "resto's" we build regularly, along with the stock rockers and "slotted" *****!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. These "warnings" are printed right in ARP's catalog's. You cannot use an ARP stud with stock rocker arm nut!