Rear spring: What would you do?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
Rear spring: What would you do?
I posted some questions this morning and didn't get any replies. I can't believe C3 CF'ers don't have answers or opinions. 
I'll try rephrasing the question:
If all you had to do was replace the rear spring mounting plate, would you:
I'll try rephrasing the question:
If all you had to do was replace the rear spring mounting plate, would you:
- Jack the car up and disconnect the spring pad bolts before removing the mounting plate?
- Just unbolt the spring mounting plate and count on the weight of the car to stop lateral movement of the spring on the diff carrier?
- Jack the car up to reduce the load on the spring before unbolting the mounting plate?
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,345
Likes: 3
I don't think the spring will move under any of your senarios.
HOWEVER, springs can bite, so you might consider making some headless bolts to allow you exchange them one at a time without ANY chance of the spring slipping.
HOWEVER, springs can bite, so you might consider making some headless bolts to allow you exchange them one at a time without ANY chance of the spring slipping.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
It would be a safer way to do it... not mandatory but safer.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
That spring has about 3/4 ton stored up. I certainly wouldn't want to be standing under it if it decided to flip out. I can remove a bolt and slip a smaller but longer bolt or two in from the top.I'll check the bolt for side force on the safety bolt and take some weight off the spring or just remove it altogether if necessary.
The spring was re-installed in August with new bolts, cushions, washers, etc. when I had the trailing arms rebuilt, new half shafts, new shocks, etc. I've only driven the car a couple hundred miles since the rebuild, so everything is pretty clean.
Thanks for the input!
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
I'm a little confused - why would you try to slip a smaller bolt in ????
Remove the 4 bolts (I think they're 7/16") and replace them with 4 pieces of all-thread ....one at a time
Reverse the process when re-assembling .....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
Thanks!
Last edited by MN80Vette; Jan 1, 2007 at 11:56 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Whitmore Lake MI
I just started my rear suspension last week. Only took me about 2 hours to remove the rear spring all together including putting the car up on stands.
I'm just a novice, but in my opinion, the extra time to do the job right is worth it.
Jeff
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
I notice that your current spring is a fiberglass spring. My experience with my car is that the fiberglass spring is easy to remove at the trailing arm attaching bolt. The fiberglass spring doesn't seem to have that much "spring" in it when it comes time to remove the end attachmnet. The steel springs still have a lot of spring force left when you undo them at the ends, and so are a lot more dangerous.