When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'd love to put in a T5, but I don't have the loose cash at the moment. However, I remembered that I have a T10 with a Hurst shifter sitting on a shelf...it's a T10-H (T10H-1 on the main case, T10-H7A on the tailhousing). 6 5/8" input shaft, dual-pattern (Ford and Muncie) case, 10 spline input (output is 28 or 32, can't remember which). From what I've found online, the gear ratios are 2.73 2.04 1.50 1.00.
What are the HP and torque ratings for a T10 like this? I know that Carrol Shelby pulled the Ford Toploaders and installed T10s on his Mustangs in the 60s, so I figure that they're pretty durable.
Tom's Differentials lists a 2.73 gearset from US Gear for the cast-iron C3 differentials, but they don't list a price. I figure with the T10 (which has a steeper first gear than my current TH350), and a 14" flywheel I have laying around, I could get the highway benefits of a T5 until I can afford an overdrive transmission (I'd really love a T56). Any thoughts?
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Are saying a T10 would get better gas mileage than a TH350? They both have a final drive of 1.00. However, when I'm trying to keep from sucking down gas, I only drive in 1st and 4th. Skipping gears is worth a little in gas savings, but is it worth that much effort?
I'm dying for a t56, but not for another summer or two.
Are saying a T10 would get better gas mileage than a TH350? They both have a final drive of 1.00. However, when I'm trying to keep from sucking down gas, I only drive in 1st and 4th. Skipping gears is worth a little in gas savings, but is it worth that much effort?
I'm dying for a t56, but not for another summer or two.
Well...I was considering getting the US Gear 2.73 gears for it, too. That would drop the final drive ratio a bit. Manuals are inherently a bit more efficient than automatics, too.
Ive got some 3.55s behind my BW ST-10 and cant wait to get 4.11s, unless your going to do a good amount of highway driving I would get 3.73 or better. Also Ive read several places and heard from a few old hot rodders that the T-10 can hold lots more power than people think, the upper 400 and mid 500hp range if I recall correctly.
I made over 50 1/4 mile passes with my Super T10 and never had any problems. The old motor was about 500 horsepower and went 12.1 @ 118MPH. The new motor is around 600 horsepower I haven't had any problems with it yet. It is a strong little piece....mine is also 100% original from 1976.
Batty, the aftermarket 273 gearset is not worth the money, go for a 200 4r auto tranny, bolts in place of your 350 and get done with it....
the first gear set ratio of a stick vs automatic are apples and oranges....the converter action is worth another 2.5x torque multiplication factor....which is why they used for dragracing so much....that and consistant quicker shifts....
IMO, it's the way to go...I have ditched my 700r4 for the 200 and am much happier for it....drives far superior, FAR superior....336 rear gearset....
I think he wants a manual over an auto. I can understand why...and the cash it whats limiting everything. Sucks to be on a budget...ask me how I know.
When I have the money, it's getting a T5, TKO or T56. I'm just trying to get rid of the TH350 in the interim.
Does anyone know how the length of the T10 compares to the TH350? Am I going to have to do anything to the driveshaft? What's the spline count on a TH350 slip yoke?
Batman if you go to a 2.73 how low will it end up with the overdrive
in the future, you could end up with less then a 2.00 overall gearing.
3.08 X.064= 2.00, 273 X.064= 170. 170 gearing is pretty extreem.
Batman if you go to a 2.73 how low will it end up with the overdrive
in the future, you could end up with less then a 2.00 overall gearing.
3.08 X.064= 2.00, 273 X.064= 170. 170 gearing is pretty extreem.
IMO, keep your money in your pocket, and keep the diff as is....unless it take a tear down/rebuild to live on for a while....
the T10 is a easy swap, really just need the shifter/linkage/etc....clutch pedal/linkage....and TIME...
I went to auto from stick, so had it easy...going the other way is a BITCH....and expensive....your problem is shift linkage, clutch linkage and pedal (a total bitch to get at, let alone install).....
IMO, keep your money in your pocket, and keep the diff as is....unless it take a tear down/rebuild to live on for a while....
the T10 is a easy swap, really just need the shifter/linkage/etc....clutch pedal/linkage....and TIME...
I went to auto from stick, so had it easy...going the other way is a BITCH....and expensive....your problem is shift linkage, clutch linkage and pedal (a total bitch to get at, let alone install).....
knock yourself out man....
Got the pedals, got a 14" flywheel laying around from another project...just need the hydraulic clutch parts, the fork, the clutch and the bellhousing. I think I'm going to do it...the T10 is in good shape. It's been on my shelf for the better part of 15 years now.
Which bellhousing do I need? I'd love to get a McLeod, but that's a bit pricey at the moment.
Last edited by I'm Batman; Jan 4, 2007 at 06:44 PM.
Got the pedals, got a 14" flywheel laying around from another project...just need the hydraulic clutch parts, the fork, the clutch and the bellhousing. I think I'm going to do it...the T10 is in good shape. It's been on my shelf for the better part of 15 years now.
Which bellhousing do I need? I'd love to get a McLeod, but that's a bit pricey at the moment.