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From: Peoplez Republik (communist portland) Orygun
Tach wire/distributor...LOST! eeks!
On my 1980 350, I have been without use of tach for 6 months. The tach needle flacidly sits at 6000 & doesn't move at all. Dead...So, I finally decided to figure it out...But wait...After scouring over the 1980 build book & owners manuals, numerous publications & pictures, I am still stumped.
What wire goes here? Is this why I have no tach? If you have HEI, do you have a wire that goes to this?
Does this wire lead go to it? Or anywhere? (orange wire w/ brown cap)
Does anything snap in there? I can't find anything. Your knowledge & brainpower I humbly seek.
Yes, it looks simple right? well dummy, plug that orange wire (with brown cap) into the spot marked TACH on the coil cover right? Not so easy, that little wire is ablout 2 inches too short to reach the fitting on the distributor. Plus, as you know with HEI, it's MUCH better to be safe than sorry by blindly plugging hot leads into open sockets.
-Tachless in Portland
Last edited by Vette80regon; Jan 7, 2007 at 12:27 PM.
You have a spot of luck, and have been driving without a tach needlessly. According to my working HEI tach, and the color of wires I have...all you have to do is plug in the brown wire and you're good. But, I cannot see where it originates. It should come from the same place as the red wire. If it's not...trace it and find it's source and test it with ignition on.
The tac wire should be white, with a silver canister at one end. This is the tach "filter", and should be mounted to a good ground. Your "orange " wire may be it, as these sometimes fade and look different.
You have a spot of luck, and have been driving without a tach needlessly. According to my working HEI tach, and the color of wires I have...all you have to do is plug in the brown wire and you're good. But, I cannot see where it originates. It should come from the same place as the red wire. If it's not...trace it and find it's source and test it with ignition on.
I know, but he has to trace that brown wire. If it does not go back to the tach than hooking it up, short or not, will not help him. He may have to crawl on his back, and find the correct tach wire and run it through the firewall if that brown wire is not it.
There should be a wire on the distributor plug marked "tach". I have my motor out of the car right now so I'm not sure what wire goes there. I'm sure that someone here will be able to help you out. Good luck.
There should be a wire on the distributor plug marked "tach". I have my motor out of the car right now so I'm not sure what wire goes there. I'm sure that someone here will be able to help you out. Good luck.
The brown wire and plug from my pic is what was plugged into the tach spot. But as I said, if that brown wire doesn't go to the tach than it's not gonna do anything. I think a 12V source into that wire should make the tach jump...but that's just something I heard.
From: Peoplez Republik (communist portland) Orygun
Thanks gang, I'm gonna jack 'er up and roll under the car & trace it all out before I connect it. If I can't find the location point (ie...bundles up to the wiring harness), I'll just go for broke & plug in the "Orange" wire into the TACH socket on the distributor & hope for positive results..."ZZZZsssshpppt!" If my wife hears that sound and me shriek "OUCH!!!!" Then we'll know it didn't work.
c- = tach signal, it even says so on the cap. The wire should indeed be white. Is yours a 305 LG4 calif emissions car? If so, and the tan wire has a black stripe then that's the hei bypass..if that's the case, connect it since the EST will be bypassed and you will run @ base timing.
The brown wire and plug from my pic is what was plugged into the tach spot. But as I said, if that brown wire doesn't go to the tach than it's not gonna do anything. I think a 12V source into that wire should make the tach jump...but that's just something I heard.
The tach signal is a "pulse" signal less than 5 volts. 12 volt will fry the board.
The tach signal is a "pulse" signal less than 5 volts. 12 volt will fry the board.
Even just a touch? If it'll fry it then yeah, bad idea. I still think it's best to trace the wire from the inside out. Try to find it from behind the knee dash pad and trace it out.
From: Peoplez Republik (communist portland) Orygun
I hooked it up (fire extinguisher nearby ) then fired the car up. It must be the correct wire as the tach needle jumped to life when it started. It pulsed with the engine correctly for about 5 seconds. Sadly & Unfortunately it spun itself off the charts and is eternally driving at what I would guess 14,000 RPM (sarcasm for being buried totally clockwise). After a 10 minute joy ride around the neighborhood I shut the car off and it still is buried, hasn't budged.
Now...Could it be the circuit board? Has this ever happened to you?
To access the circuit board I have to remove the dash/bezel correct?
I hooked it up (fire extinguisher nearby ) then fired the car up. It must be the correct wire as the tach needle jumped to life when it started. It pulsed with the engine correctly for about 5 seconds. Sadly & Unfortunately it spun itself off the charts and is eternally driving at what I would guess 14,000 RPM (sarcasm for being buried totally clockwise). After a 10 minute joy ride around the neighborhood I shut the car off and it still is buried, hasn't budged.
Now...Could it be the circuit board? Has this ever happened to you?
To access the circuit board I have to remove the dash/bezel correct?
Thanks for all the input this morning!
Well, Now we know why it was unplugged.
You need to trace that wire and see what Bubba did about that filter.
You will probably need to pull the tach, unstick the needle, and replace the circuit board.
There may be a tech paper on this, but I don't know. Good luck
Well, Now we know why it was unplugged.
You need to trace that wire and see what Bubba did about that filter. You will probably need to pull the tach, unstick the needle, and replace the circuit board.
There may be a tech paper on this, but I don't know. Good luck
My tach stopped working the other day. Found out that the filter was getting 12v from the distributor and 12v on the other side of the filter which fried the board. Now I have to get a new filter and a new circuit board.
My tach stopped working the other day. Found out that the filter was getting 12v from the distributor and 12v on the other side of the filter which fried the board. Now I have to get a new filter and a new circuit board.