Thanks everyone for the tips, I installed a Mr. Gasket HP 180* thermostat
and burped all the air out of the system, this seemed to help out the temp dropped from 235* down to about 210* after running in park for about 10 to 15 minutes. I would like to see it run at 200* or less. I am going to order a shroud and thinking about going back to stock fan and clutch. I have a 16" single electric fan which is mounted on the backside of radiator and pulls air, but I think It is not running fast enough due to battery not charging full enough. I have a 65 amp alternator is this to small to run the fan and charge the battery? I have a yellow Optima battery I paid $188.88 for a good battery due to running the fan but the alternator was cheap 40 bucks, should I go with a higher amp(100 or higher)? Will 100 amp be good enough? Does this make sense?
I am hoping with more amps It will charge better and run the fan faster.
Right now if the fan runs longer than the engine the car wont start for about 10 minutes after fan shuts off. I had the alternator tested today(off the car at the part store) and its putting out 14 amps. They kept my battery overnight to slow charge it and will let me know tomorrow if it is good or bad. The salesman told me to get a higher amp alternator, What do you guys think? Also the guy that worked on my car wired the fan to the alternator is that ok? or should it be powered from some where else? Thanks you all have been a big help to me as I am new to the Corvette world and loving it. Mike

 

It looks like you're on the right track, Mike. Adding the shroud and proper seals and that may put you where you need to be. And yes, it should run under 200 degrees. Someone else should chime in for the electrical problems. Good luck.

 

Glad to hear of your progress Mike.
You need a shroud, better fan (with shroud), or back to stock.
If you keep the elec fan, or get a better one with a shroud, go to the 100 amp

 

THANKS FOR THE TIPS

 

Sounds like your $40 alternator might be a pos too. A 65 amp alternator should take a 60 odd amp load and maintain about 14v. A larger alternator will do you even better especially at idle. The shroud and radiator seals need to be good too. Does the fan run all the time after it kicks in?

 

The fan kicks on at 190-200* and runs the whole time also about 5 minutes after engine is turned off. After engine is off it won't start, but 10-15 minutes later it fires right up. Do you think I should step up to 100 amps?

 

Can you be more specific? When you turn it off, it won't.
A) Turn over
B) Won't fire off
C) Turns over real slow.

 

OK, sounds like 2 problems, maybe 3.
You will need to upgrade that alternator, it probably needs 25 amps or better to run full speed, thats not going to be available at idle with that alt.
You might still have some air in the system, drill 2 1/8" holes in the t-stat to eliminate it.
Is the radiator clean, inside and out? It needs to be. The shroud kit will improve airflow.
Start with drilling the t-stat, and upgrade the alt. The battery is discharging because of the fan running because the alt can't carry the load.

 

Big2Bird It wont start after fan runs. completely dead no click or nothing 10 minutes later itstarts with no problems

 

Thanks sixfooter I will give that a try and upgrade alternator to a 100 amp model so it can carry the load.The radiator is new oe replacment

 

Well, since batteries don't charge themselves, I wonder if your starter is heat soaking, and cools off. What do you think 6'?

 

If the fan dont run after I turn the car off due to not rising over 200* the car starts right up. I'm hoping a new alternator will do the trick.

 

Thanks for the help.I got to get to bed got to be at work atsix I will check back tomorrow night you guys hve been a big help tring to figure out these problems I'm having. Thanks again, Mike

 

Im running a 16" spahl fan on my C2 which has a powermaster 70 amp alternator - no problem, the fan draws 21 amps, it spins very high and keeps my BB running at 180. Im running a Optima red top battery, no problems.

How are you supplying 12 volts to the fan, through the existing wiring or a 12v feed directly from the battery thru a relay? (Preferred). This fan is too large in current draw to wire through your existing wiring.

I used this relay from be cool to power my fan wiring - http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

A couple of tips:

Here is a pic of your tstat showing where the holes are drilled by Stewart Pumps. Not on the flat shoulder as in a normal tstat.

That should speed up your burping.

As far as your alternator charging:
Most of the posters probably are not aware that you are not driving this car and only testing at idle. Here is a charging chart of your si 63 amp alternator.

As you can see at 1100rpm you are only getting approx 10amps and at approx 1600rpm you would be charging just enough to match your electric fan.
Under normal driving conditions, your alternator should be more than enough for your setup, as babbah described. Use his advice and use a relay with larger wiring from the Alt pos post to power the fan. At idle the battery would help to power the fan and at speed the alternator would power the fan and also quickly recharge the battery.
There is nothing wrong with upgrading the alternator, but the charge wires will have to be upgraded too. Your choice.
Make sure your bat to starter cable and battery to ground cables and ends are good. It doesn't hurt to add more ground cables especially at the core support for the elect fan. The stock ground at the core support sucks. Go directly from the alternator casing to the core dupport.

I would still go back to stock shroud etc, at least for now.
It was 86° here in Ft Lauderdale today and with a 3 core copper/brass clean cooling system with absolutely no seals whatsoever around the radiator/hood/coresupport, I was staying at the tstat temp of 180°. I'm not saying not to use seals. It just shows the importance of the shroud.
After I finish, I will put the 195° tstat back in with all the seals.

 

Thats a good point I didn't think to ask about. It most definately should go thru a relay and not use the stock aux sensor, its already way hot when that one kickes in. Heat soaking on the starter might be a problem, but I wouldn't think so that quickly. The battery will recover some of its charge after it sits for a bit, but will not be anywhere near a full chgarge, but possibly enough to fire it up. The alt would then furnish enough juice to put in some charge before the fans kick on again.

 

i have dual electric fans on my 79 and installed a 145 amp alternator on it bought it on ebay for $125 and it runs the fans and charges great

 

Is anyone familiar with the fel pro intake gasket set? My friend installed my Edelbrock performer intake and he is now telling me he is not sure he was supposed to use the small square tin tab(water restrictor ?)which came with the set of gaskets? He put it on the center port left side.
Could that have something to do with why I am running hot? He did install it, is that right? I hope so. From now on it is going to the shop for repairs as I am Not a mechanic. I am taking off the electric fan and returning to the stock set up shroud,fan and clutch this weekend, also I am going to drill two small holes in my thermostat to remove any trapped air.

 

The restrictor is not for the water, it's for the exhaust x-over. It's in the right place. Your problem lies elsewhere. And, as the engine breaks in, it will cool down a bit.

 

Thanks for the reply I just wanted to make sure that was right.The motor has less than 200 miles on it since it was rebuilt. just idle and driving around the block a bunch of times since it is not ready for the street yet no plates yet. I am going back to the stock set up this weekend and hope all will work out.