Tech Tip: Removing Upper A-Arms on '79 AC Car
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
Tech Tip: Removing Upper A-Arms on '79 AC Car
'79 L-82: Front end rebuild:
I managed to disassemble 90% of my front suspension without incident (or band aid) in about 3 hours using very basic hand tools. I got stuck when trying to remove the upper control arms from their studs under the hood. The radiator shroud is entirely too close for the control arm mounting brackets to clear after removing the nuts. I attempted to remove the radiator shroud but it wouldn't come out unless I pulled the A-Arms first (or the radiator). A bit of a catch-22. Since I'm not ready to remove the rad, It was clear that the studs had to come out to free the arms.
I took advantage of a tip in the paper from Lars on how to rebuild the front suspension of a C2/C3.
Lars also recommended using air tools and carefully "hitting" the end of the bolt to free it up, but warned that too much of a hit will spin the bolt and destroy the knurling, forcing replacement. The clamp method worked beautifully with no damage to the bolt. All done with the most basic of tools.
Cheers and thanks to Lars (as always),
Steve
I managed to disassemble 90% of my front suspension without incident (or band aid) in about 3 hours using very basic hand tools. I got stuck when trying to remove the upper control arms from their studs under the hood. The radiator shroud is entirely too close for the control arm mounting brackets to clear after removing the nuts. I attempted to remove the radiator shroud but it wouldn't come out unless I pulled the A-Arms first (or the radiator). A bit of a catch-22. Since I'm not ready to remove the rad, It was clear that the studs had to come out to free the arms.
I took advantage of a tip in the paper from Lars on how to rebuild the front suspension of a C2/C3.
- Replace the nut on the end of the stud to the point where the threads can be felt to be sticking through.
- Put a 13/16" socket for a 3/8" drive over the end of the 5/8" bolt head mounted in the frame.
- Working from inside the wheel well, place the top, unthreaded end of a quality 4" C-Clamp on the nut protecting the end of the thread.
- Position the threaded end of the clamp in the center of the socket covering the end of the bolt and tighten until snug.
- Keep applying steady pressure and the knurled portion of the bolt will pop from the frame into the oversized socket.
- Pull the bolts and the A-Arms are easily removed.
Lars also recommended using air tools and carefully "hitting" the end of the bolt to free it up, but warned that too much of a hit will spin the bolt and destroy the knurling, forcing replacement. The clamp method worked beautifully with no damage to the bolt. All done with the most basic of tools.
Cheers and thanks to Lars (as always),
Steve
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,382
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Steve -
Great to hear that the tip worked out well for you - good job! And without the use of a single BandAid..?? You're my hero! Did you use the recommended bottle of Jack Daniels?
Lars
Great to hear that the tip worked out well for you - good job! And without the use of a single BandAid..?? You're my hero! Did you use the recommended bottle of Jack Daniels?
Lars
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Another approach, which I use with great success, is to use a slide hammer. Leave the nut on the last few threads to protect the stud. Pick up the upper arm and position the slide hammer between the frame and the underside of the arm. Capture the nut/stud with the attachment on the end. (I prefer the 90* end). A couple of hard slides of the weight and it is loose. Be careful you don't hit the fender with the weight!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
Thanks again!
