BATTERY CABLE SHOT?
I WOULD PULL OVER, WHAT A MINUTE, START IT UP, AND IT WOULD GO MAYBE 50 FEET, AND BOG DOWN AGAIN. THEN THE BATTERY GOT SO LOW, START WAS A NO GO. I GUY PULLED OVER TO JUMP ME, BUT I WOULD GET NOTHING WHEN TURNING THE KEY, AND THEN WHEN IT WOULD CONTACT, NOT ENOUGH JUICE TO GET IT TO TURN OVER, SO I CALLED A TOW TRUCK.
NOW HERE IS A CLUE: EVER SINCE I GOT IT RUNNING A FEW DAYS BACK, I WOULD EVERY NOW AND THEN JUST GET A CLICK WHEN STARTING. AFTER A FEW TIMES, STARTER WOULD CATCH FINE, AND CRANK RIGHT UP. I HAD A VERY SIMILIAR PROBLEM ABOUT A YEAR AGO, AND FOUND IT WAS DUE TO MY POS CABLE NOT HAVING GOOD CONACT WHERE IT CLAMPS INTO THE POS CABLE TOWER CLAMP AT THE BAT
I LOOKED AT MY POS CABLE AT THE BATTERY, AND ITS FLAKEY AT BEST. ITS ONE OF THOSE CABLES THAT GET CLAMPED IN THE BATERRY POST CLAMP. AND IT BARELY HAS ANY SLACK, SO IT ALWAYS HAS TENSION ON IT. AND NOW IT LOOKS AS IF ONLY ABOUT HALF OF THE CABLES INNER CORE IS ACTUALLY MAKING CONTACT WITH THE POS TERMINAL CLAMP.
NOW THIS CONTACT MAY BE ENOUGH TO KEEP JUICE TO THE DASH LITES AND RADIO AND SUCH, IT SURE ISNT ENOUGH TO TAKE THE AMPS WHEN TURNING A MOTOR OVER. I ALSO BELIEVE THAT WHILE DRIVING OVER TIME, THE CONDITION HAS GOTTEN WORSE, SO THE CABLE MAY BE JITERRING AROUND ENOUGH TO CUT POWER, CAUSING THE BOG.
WHEN I GOT HOME, I CHECKED THE FUEL PUMP BY REMOVING A FUEL LINE, WITH THE LOW CHARGE THAT WAS IN THE BATTERY. WORKS FINE. OF COURSE, NOT ENOUGH JUICE TO TURN THE MOTOR OVER
IM CHANGING OUT BOTH BAT CABLES TONITE.
I HAVE ALREADY TRIPLED CHECKED ALL COIL CONNECTIONS, ETC, AND EVERYTHING LOOKS OK.
ILL GET PICS POSTED TONITE, AND GIVE AN UPDATE.
ANY OTHER THOUGHTS OUT THERE?
Took cable off, cleaned it up, reattached so that cable hang straight down rather than on an angle as it had been.
No problem since then. I'll probably replace the cables over the winter just to be on the safe side.
Battery would not take a charge, and the real clue - while driving at night, every time I hit the brakes the lights would flicker!! I would say corroded cables is a good guess, and replacement is a good place to start. Positive cable replacement is rumored to be a beech! MJ
Positive cable was corroded about 4" from the battery connection.
A few strands of wire was enough for interior light and clock but even they wouldn't work for awhile after getting clinking with tyring to start her.
flynhi - where is engine to frame ground? Battery to frame ground is easy. I saw in another thread that the ground is supposed to be on the passenger side engine mount area, but I got under the car and saw nothing. Are there bolt holes, or should I see something to ground to? Is there a site that shows a picture or drawing of what the engine ground should look like? I've got a '70. Is the ground the same for each year?
Thanks...
Sure feels good to fix your own car.
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