Keisler Test Drive
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
Keisler Test Drive
Took my first test drive on Sunday and the transmission felt very notchy...very rough to shift at times. Usually getting into first but after thata little bit better.
Looking for some feedback...
Is this just aninitial break-in issue or do you think I am still not getting enough stroke on the master cylinder?
Thanks
Shane
Looking for some feedback...
Is this just aninitial break-in issue or do you think I am still not getting enough stroke on the master cylinder?
Thanks
Shane
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 3
From: Idaho
Shane
I have the TKO 600 in mine and it was very hard shifting at first, it will get much better after a few thousand miles. My only problem is I have to remember that I now have 5 gears instead of 4.
Russ
I have the TKO 600 in mine and it was very hard shifting at first, it will get much better after a few thousand miles. My only problem is I have to remember that I now have 5 gears instead of 4.
Russ
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
Thanks guys....Glad to know I am in the ballpark on these things. I havenot even put the floor mat back in so I have a feeling I may need to extend the pushrod even more than I already have.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 12
From: SoCal
Based on this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1595037 it should shift smoothly.
But why not ask Keisler directly?
But why not ask Keisler directly?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,826
Likes: 3
From: Tennessee
Based on this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1595037 it should shift smoothly.
But why not ask Keisler directly?
But why not ask Keisler directly?
Already corresponded thru PM.
The TKO is going to be a little "notchy" until the breakin period, roughly the first 500 miles or so. After that, it should shift like butter.
Richard
Tech Support
Keisler Engineering
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Took my first test drive on Sunday and the transmission felt very notchy...very rough to shift at times. Usually getting into first but after thata little bit better.
Looking for some feedback...
Is this just aninitial break-in issue or do you think I am still not getting enough stroke on the master cylinder?
Thanks
Shane
Looking for some feedback...
Is this just aninitial break-in issue or do you think I am still not getting enough stroke on the master cylinder?
Thanks
Shane
2 things: First, it would not hurt to check the throw on the master cylinder to ensure you are getting the presrcibed amount of travel 1.5" however, I dont think this is an issue.
Second: My shifter was tight right out of the box, but loosened during the breakin period. What kind of fluid did you use? Keisler recommends either the $10qt synchromesh from GM or automatic trans fluid. Not knowing any better, I went with the auto trans fluid (cheaper) listed in the directions. Over time the shifter seemed to loosed and after breakin I changed the fluid to the GM synchromesh (after talking to Keisler about which fluid to use), and it seems to shift much smoother. I think the GM fluid and the breakin contributed to the smoother shifts.
In retrospect, I would have used the GM synchromesh in the first place.
I am glad you won the war! Nice job! You are in a for a treat -- totally new car!
Cheers,
Crunch
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
Shane,
2 things: First, it would not hurt to check the throw on the master cylinder to ensure you are getting the presrcibed amount of travel 1.5" however, I dont think this is an issue.
Second: My shifter was tight right out of the box, but loosened during the breakin period. What kind of fluid did you use? Keisler recommends either the $10qt synchromesh from GM or automatic trans fluid. Not knowing any better, I went with the auto trans fluid (cheaper) listed in the directions. Over time the shifter seemed to loosed and after breakin I changed the fluid to the GM synchromesh (after talking to Keisler about which fluid to use), and it seems to shift much smoother. I think the GM fluid and the breakin contributed to the smoother shifts.
In retrospect, I would have used the GM synchromesh in the first place.
I am glad you won the war! Nice job! You are in a for a treat -- totally new car!
Cheers,
Crunch
2 things: First, it would not hurt to check the throw on the master cylinder to ensure you are getting the presrcibed amount of travel 1.5" however, I dont think this is an issue.
Second: My shifter was tight right out of the box, but loosened during the breakin period. What kind of fluid did you use? Keisler recommends either the $10qt synchromesh from GM or automatic trans fluid. Not knowing any better, I went with the auto trans fluid (cheaper) listed in the directions. Over time the shifter seemed to loosed and after breakin I changed the fluid to the GM synchromesh (after talking to Keisler about which fluid to use), and it seems to shift much smoother. I think the GM fluid and the breakin contributed to the smoother shifts.
In retrospect, I would have used the GM synchromesh in the first place.
I am glad you won the war! Nice job! You are in a for a treat -- totally new car!
Cheers,
Crunch
The big now is I realize how much I need to change the rear gears from a 3.08 to a little bit better like a 3.55.
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Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
If I was in your positon I would go with the 3:73s or maybe consider a 3:90. Keisler recommends a 3:73 and I think they are right.
I have 3:55s and they are fine. However, after driving I think there is room for more gear --i.e., 3:73/3:90s. The reason I didnt change was because I had just changed from 3:08s to 3:55s about a year before I bought the 5-speed, and didnt feel like doing it again until I did some driving. $800 bills per gear change gets pricey, so I wanted to see first hand what the 3:55 felt like.
BTW, 4:11s require a whole new case, plus I think they would be too low.
Cheers,
Crunch
I have 3:55s and they are fine. However, after driving I think there is room for more gear --i.e., 3:73/3:90s. The reason I didnt change was because I had just changed from 3:08s to 3:55s about a year before I bought the 5-speed, and didnt feel like doing it again until I did some driving. $800 bills per gear change gets pricey, so I wanted to see first hand what the 3:55 felt like.
BTW, 4:11s require a whole new case, plus I think they would be too low.
Cheers,
Crunch
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
If I was in your positon I would go with the 3:73s or maybe consider a 3:90. Keisler recommends a 3:73 and I think they are right.
I have 3:55s and they are fine. However, after driving I think there is room for more gear --i.e., 3:73/3:90s. The reason I didnt change was because I had just changed from 3:08s to 3:55s about a year before I bought the 5-speed, and didnt feel like doing it again until I did some driving. $800 bills per gear change gets pricey, so I wanted to see first hand what the 3:55 felt like.
BTW, 4:11s require a whole new case, plus I think they would be too low.
Cheers,
Crunch
I have 3:55s and they are fine. However, after driving I think there is room for more gear --i.e., 3:73/3:90s. The reason I didnt change was because I had just changed from 3:08s to 3:55s about a year before I bought the 5-speed, and didnt feel like doing it again until I did some driving. $800 bills per gear change gets pricey, so I wanted to see first hand what the 3:55 felt like.
BTW, 4:11s require a whole new case, plus I think they would be too low.
Cheers,
Crunch
At that price, I am assuming you had them rebuilt professionally? I think I am going to look at having VanSteel do it in a month or two. How bad was simply removintg the pumpkin?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Shane,
Pumpkin removal is easy compared to installing a 5-speed-- just another round of sitting under the car and bumping you head, smashing fingers, and whatnot. I bet you could have it out in an hour or so.
Big things to remove:
Half Shafts,
Drive shaft
Rear spring (may want to remove shocks cause they may end up supporting the trailing arms otherwise)
I used my floor jack to support the pumpkin and unbloted it from the crossmember and lowered the jack. The crossmember can be a B&t^h to get out. Those bushings are tight and mine didnt want to budge w/o a hammer and pry bar.
The list of "while I was there" = 1. crossmember bushing kit (vette brakes) and 2. (I cant remember the name) the pumpkin housing support bushing -- it is round and you will see it towards the front yolk of the rear housing. How is that for a techincal explanation?
Cheers,
Crunch
Pumpkin removal is easy compared to installing a 5-speed-- just another round of sitting under the car and bumping you head, smashing fingers, and whatnot. I bet you could have it out in an hour or so.
Big things to remove:
Half Shafts,
Drive shaft
Rear spring (may want to remove shocks cause they may end up supporting the trailing arms otherwise)
I used my floor jack to support the pumpkin and unbloted it from the crossmember and lowered the jack. The crossmember can be a B&t^h to get out. Those bushings are tight and mine didnt want to budge w/o a hammer and pry bar.
The list of "while I was there" = 1. crossmember bushing kit (vette brakes) and 2. (I cant remember the name) the pumpkin housing support bushing -- it is round and you will see it towards the front yolk of the rear housing. How is that for a techincal explanation?
Cheers,
Crunch
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
Shane,
Pumpkin removal is easy compared to installing a 5-speed-- just another round of sitting under the car and bumping you head, smashing fingers, and whatnot. I bet you could have it out in an hour or so.
Big things to remove:
Half Shafts,
Drive shaft
Rear spring (may want to remove shocks cause they may end up supporting the trailing arms otherwise)
I used my floor jack to support the pumpkin and unbloted it from the crossmember and lowered the jack. The crossmember can be a B&t^h to get out. Those bushings are tight and mine didnt want to budge w/o a hammer and pry bar.
The list of "while I was there" = 1. crossmember bushing kit (vette brakes) and 2. (I cant remember the name) the pumpkin housing support bushing -- it is round and you will see it towards the front yolk of the rear housing. How is that for a techincal explanation?
Cheers,
Crunch
Pumpkin removal is easy compared to installing a 5-speed-- just another round of sitting under the car and bumping you head, smashing fingers, and whatnot. I bet you could have it out in an hour or so.
Big things to remove:
Half Shafts,
Drive shaft
Rear spring (may want to remove shocks cause they may end up supporting the trailing arms otherwise)
I used my floor jack to support the pumpkin and unbloted it from the crossmember and lowered the jack. The crossmember can be a B&t^h to get out. Those bushings are tight and mine didnt want to budge w/o a hammer and pry bar.
The list of "while I was there" = 1. crossmember bushing kit (vette brakes) and 2. (I cant remember the name) the pumpkin housing support bushing -- it is round and you will see it towards the front yolk of the rear housing. How is that for a techincal explanation?
Cheers,
Crunch
The transmission is pretty much done now except I am waiting on a new bleeder screw, etc. I just have to figure out this rattle-like noise I get during test drives when I jump on the throttle. When cruising at any consistent speed or rpms seems fine...Only when I get on the gas. I am thinking / hoping it is the exhaust rattling as it had been welded to a bracket which was bolted to the cross member so I might try and welda newone today (fyi, I suck at welding).
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I can now have the rear pumpking on the floor in under and hour now. The first time might take longer due to rusted bolts and the crossmember removal but it is really a simple job. It is heavy though so support it with a jack and make sure it does not fall off the jack. It is a little tippy in most jacks. I just reinstalled my pumpkin back in yesterday after putting on the dual mount spring brackets. With the pumpking, crossmember and brackets it is well over 100 pounds. Probably around 130+ pounds. Eat your Wheaties!
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
Shane -- on that rattle -- check the driveline alignment coming off the transmission yolk to the driveshaft. make sure the crossmember adapter bolts and transmission attachment bolts are still tight. For example, after driving a bit, I had a rattle and got underneath to find that my transmission adapter bracket bolts had settled/worked loose during breakin and this allowed the drive shaft to rub in the body. It sounded kind of like a rattle cause the ends of the ujoints were hitting the body as the driveshaft turned. I could also feel it in the console under hard acceleration.
Just a thought...
Crunch
Just a thought...
Crunch
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
Shane, if I recall you said you did not use the lower 2 mounting points on the bracket. You only mounted the bracket using the top 2 bolts. I would think that maybe the backet is vibrating against the crossmember? Just a thought. Still waiting on my .82 TKO-600. I have 3.73 rear gear and still felt the jump from 1:1 to .67 (2004R) was to much for me.
I lengthened my clutch rod but I welded a 3/4" piece of rod in the middle of the turn buckle. I wish the turn buckle actually worked like a turn buckle...when you turn the body it will either lengthen or shorten via reverse threaded eyes. That would have made adjusting the lengh a lot easier. The maximum throw I could get on my cylinder is about 1.4". I adjusted mine with the carpet in place but only after I determined what my max travel was by bottoming out in the piston bore instead of the floor first.
I asked you in a previous post if you like your Quick Lift?
Good Luck.
I lengthened my clutch rod but I welded a 3/4" piece of rod in the middle of the turn buckle. I wish the turn buckle actually worked like a turn buckle...when you turn the body it will either lengthen or shorten via reverse threaded eyes. That would have made adjusting the lengh a lot easier. The maximum throw I could get on my cylinder is about 1.4". I adjusted mine with the carpet in place but only after I determined what my max travel was by bottoming out in the piston bore instead of the floor first.
I asked you in a previous post if you like your Quick Lift?
Good Luck.
Last edited by KJL; Jan 15, 2007 at 09:35 PM.