Front End Alignment Shims
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
Front End Alignment Shims
Hello to all,
I have yet another question for the forum. I am attempting a front end alignment at home. I have a 0 degree Camber on both wheels. I would like to adjust the Camber to about -.07 degrees. I'm not sure if I need to remove some shims or add them for a more negitive Camber. If I'm looking at the set up correctly I think I need to add about .250 thickness of shims to both sides and then adj the Caster as well. Thanks for any help or advice Tim
I have yet another question for the forum. I am attempting a front end alignment at home. I have a 0 degree Camber on both wheels. I would like to adjust the Camber to about -.07 degrees. I'm not sure if I need to remove some shims or add them for a more negitive Camber. If I'm looking at the set up correctly I think I need to add about .250 thickness of shims to both sides and then adj the Caster as well. Thanks for any help or advice Tim
Racer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 416
Likes: 40
From: Swansea IL
Camber Adjustment
What type of gauge are you using to adjust your camber and caster? Just curious as I have an older Bill Mitchell model that I really like.
In order to increase negative camber you have to move the upper a-arm in toward the centerline of the chassis. You add shims to both front and rear a-arm attach points.
For caster, you need to check the specs for manual vs PS. The manual will have a greater setting as you don't have the PS to assist the steering in returning to neutral.
The more caster you run, the harder it is to steer, BUT, the more stable the car is on the road. Wheel returns to neutral more readily.
HTH
Bob
In order to increase negative camber you have to move the upper a-arm in toward the centerline of the chassis. You add shims to both front and rear a-arm attach points.
For caster, you need to check the specs for manual vs PS. The manual will have a greater setting as you don't have the PS to assist the steering in returning to neutral.
The more caster you run, the harder it is to steer, BUT, the more stable the car is on the road. Wheel returns to neutral more readily.
HTH
Bob
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 27
From: Eastern North Carolina
What type of gauge are you using to adjust your camber and caster? Just curious as I have an older Bill Mitchell model that I really like.
In order to increase negative camber you have to move the upper a-arm in toward the centerline of the chassis. You add shims to both front and rear a-arm attach points.
For caster, you need to check the specs for manual vs PS. The manual will have a greater setting as you don't have the PS to assist the steering in returning to neutral.
The more caster you run, the harder it is to steer, BUT, the more stable the car is on the road. Wheel returns to neutral more readily.
HTH
Bob
In order to increase negative camber you have to move the upper a-arm in toward the centerline of the chassis. You add shims to both front and rear a-arm attach points.
For caster, you need to check the specs for manual vs PS. The manual will have a greater setting as you don't have the PS to assist the steering in returning to neutral.
The more caster you run, the harder it is to steer, BUT, the more stable the car is on the road. Wheel returns to neutral more readily.
HTH
Bob
Thats what I thought I just am feeling a lack of confidence since this is my first attempt. The Gauge that I'm useing is a make shift angle finder that read out in degrees. Not sure how accurate it is, but I just want to get close. Your response will be very helpful to me Thanks Tim
