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NON captive, upper control arm bolts...

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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 10:49 AM
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Default NON captive, upper control arm bolts...

Guys, I started pulling my front end apart today. I don't have a slide hammer and was wondering whether I would have the room to get the upper control arm off the "captive" mounting bolts.

When I started undoing the first nut, the bolt spun too and I had to try and hold the bolt while I removed the nut. I ended up putting a spanner on the nut and undid the bolt with a socket and ratchet. The second bolt was the same.

When I removed both bolts, the knurling that is supposed to keep them captive is worn/chewed over so that the bolts slide in and out of the hole now. They're a snug fit and not sloppy, but certainly not captive any longer.

Will that be a problem when I put it back together? I mean, is it imperative that the bolts are captive?

Thanks in advance for any info...
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 10:56 AM
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I don't think it's a problem. May make it tougher on the alignment shop, though.
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by saudivette
When I removed both bolts, the knurling that is supposed to keep them captive is worn/chewed over so that the bolts slide in and out of the hole now. They're a snug fit and not sloppy, but certainly not captive any longer.
Replacement sets are available. For example:

http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...t&SubGroup=102

Item #8, $12 for all 4

Best of luck with the rebuild!
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 12:45 PM
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Thanks guys. I'll get some new ones, but I couldn't really see the old ones being a problem. I wouldn't have thought that they would move once they were torqued up...
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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You might need to wrap a little bit of thin brass shim stock over the splines to get it to tighten up.
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 12:44 AM
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Default Those bolt holes are hogged out and the new bolts will continue to turn.

I brazed the 2 bolts on the drivers side. Holes where hogged out too much and new bolts continued to spin. U could weld them instead but u would no be able to adjust or reweld the bolt as easy as brazing. Downside of brazing is once u braze it u can't weld that steel again - have to cut it out and weld in new steel.

Please becareful of the fire hazard - close to brake lines and somewhat close to the EVC. Use fire blankets.

Sorry for the bad news but thats what i did.
cardo0
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 01:32 AM
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I can get new bolts so I don't think I need to be welding anything just yet. I still can't see though, how they would spin when torqued up to 50 ft lbs? I think I'd even run lock wire holes into the bolt heads and nuts and lock them that way before I started to braze or weld anything...
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by saudivette
I can get new bolts so I don't think I need to be welding anything just yet. I still can't see though, how they would spin when torqued up to 50 ft lbs? I think I'd even run lock wire holes into the bolt heads and nuts and lock them that way before I started to braze or weld anything...
The holes in the frame can enlarge. I had one bad hole, the brass shim stock tightened things up nicely. Even the new bolt spun at first.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 02:23 AM
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I like your idea Batman, rather than brazing or welding anything...
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 07:16 AM
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I actually just used a set of old wheel studs. The other alternative is to tack weld the heads from the back side.
The wheel studs are the same 7/16 thread and are knurled to the right size.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I actually just used a set of old wheel studs. The other alternative is to tack weld the heads from the back side.
The wheel studs are the same 7/16 thread and are knurled to the right size.
I wouldn't have even thought of wheel studs! I've already organised 4 new bolts and nuts, but thanks for the idea. I'll wait till the new ones arrive to see if I need to weld or shim anything...
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by saudivette
I wouldn't have even thought of wheel studs! I've already organised 4 new bolts and nuts, but thanks for the idea. I'll wait till the new ones arrive to see if I need to weld or shim anything...
the only thing with using old wheel studs is they are slightly shorter then the original bolts. I used the wheel studs because I don't use alot of shims and they are certainly long enough. That and I had alot of them when I upgraded the wheel studs to 1/2 inch.
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