Wheel bearing torque specs?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
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From: Park Ridge IL
Re: Wheel bearing torque specs? (Rhys)
Front or Rear?
The rear spindle nut should be torqued to 100 ft lbs. I believe the front only require 12 ft lbs or so, depending on which bearing preload procedure you subscribe to.
The rear spindle nut should be torqued to 100 ft lbs. I believe the front only require 12 ft lbs or so, depending on which bearing preload procedure you subscribe to.
Thread Starter
Platinum Supporting Dealership
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 6,425
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From: Traveling the US
Re: Wheel bearing torque specs? (Monty)
Front. I torqued the nut, spun the rotor, then backed the nut off, spun, retorqued. Now the problem is that I can not get very close to 12 ft lbs and still line up the cotter pin with the hole thru the spindle.
So I went tighter. I am still feeling the play in it when I drive the car and jerk the wheel back and forth. I believe that only the outer bearings were replaced.
I guess I should take the hubs apart and replace all of them. I assume I need to take the calipers off?
So I went tighter. I am still feeling the play in it when I drive the car and jerk the wheel back and forth. I believe that only the outer bearings were replaced.
I guess I should take the hubs apart and replace all of them. I assume I need to take the calipers off?
Thread Starter
Platinum Supporting Dealership
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 6,425
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From: Traveling the US
Re: Wheel bearing torque specs? (Rhys)
After drilling the front rotors apart from the hub, is it necessary to re-rivet or bolt them back in place?
The Lindsay Porter book says "NO"
The Lindsay Porter book says "NO"
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Re: Wheel bearing torque specs? (Rhys)
You don't need to rivet the rotor to the hub. They were rivetted together to ease assembly at the plant. Use a standard lug nut but with the flat side facing the rotor. Tighten three of these lugs to hold the rotor to the hub.
You might need to wiggle the rotor/hub assembly to push the outer bearings into their position. I didn't use the 12lb test---my installation is more of a "feel". I'd say the castle nut is tightened to about 20 ft/lb. then back off to the nearest opening.
Yes the caliper will need to be moved out of the way to remove the rotor.
[Modified by 1970 Stingray, 9:17 AM 10/2/2001]
You might need to wiggle the rotor/hub assembly to push the outer bearings into their position. I didn't use the 12lb test---my installation is more of a "feel". I'd say the castle nut is tightened to about 20 ft/lb. then back off to the nearest opening.
Yes the caliper will need to be moved out of the way to remove the rotor.
[Modified by 1970 Stingray, 9:17 AM 10/2/2001]
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
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From: Moon Township PA
Re: Wheel bearing torque specs? (Rhys)
The whole idea is to slowly torque the front wheel bearings to 12 foot-pounds while spinning the tire and wheel. If the cotter pin doesn't line up, LOOSEN the nut, do not tighten it! :eek: You can loosen it to the next flat and that will allow the cotter pin to go in. If you still have play you have a bearing problem on the inner or outer bearings. If you do replace them, always replace them as a set, including the races. This is not an area to go cheap on and always insist for US made bearings such as Timkin (sp?).
Gary
Gary
