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Manual conversion frame bracket

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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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Default Manual conversion frame bracket

Im changing my 71 from an auto to a muncie. Anyone have any measurements,pics,info as to the location where the frame mount stud bracket needs to be welded to the frame.Engine and tranny are out and Id linke to do it before dropping in the big pieces!
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 07:26 AM
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Now is a good time to go hydraulic and get rid of all that mechanical linkage.
Bernie
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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TotalC,
I can take some measurements off my '69 that has the body off now. I'll write back this morning.

Jimbo
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:51 AM
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I did an auto to manual conversion on my 76 using the stock mechanical linkage. Here's how I welded the bracket.
1) Install the ball stud in the engine
2) Assemble the cross shaft (bolts, seals, etc) and install frame bracket on it.
3) Place the cross shaft/bracket onto ball stud of engine and position it 90 degrees from engine.
4) Carefully lean over fender and spot weld it in place. Do not generate alot of heat at this point. Just enough weld to keep it from moving ... two spot welds should be enough.
5) Remove cross shaft and ball stud from bracket.
6) Fully weld bracket on to frame.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Now is a good time to go hydraulic and get rid of all that mechanical linkage.
Bernie
I agree!!!
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 10:33 AM
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Jason is correct. However, your engine and tranny must be installed and anchored to get the right verticle angle on the engine. I did this with my '73, using a piece of angle iron. Since yours is removed, you can use this pictures as a reference. The distance from the apex of the frame bend to the leading edge of the bracket is exactly two inches. The bracket parallels the angled section of the frame and is one inch from outside edge to outside edge. I know these deminsions sound too general, but I measured them multiple times. Good luck.





Jimbo
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 01:08 PM
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Default Thanks!

Thanks for all the info and pics guys,I did consider going hydraulic but decided to stay old school mechanical. I did want to do it the way Jason described but as I said the big parts are missing, so the measurements will help out immensely!
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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You can go hydtaulic for about $120.00, so much easier to do and a softer clutch pedal at red lights. Good luck!
Bernie
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