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Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy a good head lamp relay valve? I purchase one from corvette central about a year ago and rarely drive at night. When vacuum is applied to the yellow port and the green port is blocked it will not maintain vacuum pressure it leaks out of the bottom/filter. Too much money for the amount of times it has been used. Any recommendation would be appreciated.
I just bought a pair from Tyler's Corvette Parts from ebay. He probably gets his from the same place everyone else gets theirs. Have only had them in since yesterday,... and so far they work great! I hope I get more than a year out of them, as you said, they are not cheap.
Hook them up with a 3-way switch. Vacuum relays are not needed either:
These pumps are kinda noisy--that's the only drawback to this.
I put in a hybrid system: I use the 3-way soleniod valves with engine vacuum for normal operation. But I also have one air pump (with switch) that I use to raise headlights when the engine is off.
Last edited by PhotoVette1; Jan 15, 2007 at 08:37 AM.
Here’s are my stupid questions. Where do I get the relay and if I tee the actuators vacuum lines together couldn’t I get away with just one of these? Thanks for your help.
Here’s are my stupid questions. Where do I get the relay and if I tee the actuators vacuum lines together couldn’t I get away with just one of these? Thanks for your help.
The relay is just a standard Bosch automotive relay.
You need two 3-way valves due to the fact that the original vacuum relay valves were 4-way valves--a 3-way valve would have no way to vent the non-operating side--4-way valves are much less common and much more expensive (somebody correct me if they find a cheap source of 12vdc 4-way valves.)
I would try Dr Rebuild or Paragon for the valve. I believe GM disco'd it about 4 years ago. Wish I had bought a few spares. Same valve is also used for GTO and Camaro with hideaway headlights.
Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy a good head lamp relay valve? I purchase one from corvette central about a year ago and rarely drive at night. When vacuum is applied to the yellow port and the green port is blocked it will not maintain vacuum pressure it leaks out of the bottom/filter. Too much money for the amount of times it has been used. Any recommendation would be appreciated.
Jesse, this is the common failure mode for these vacuum relay valves. There is a dog bone like piece with lip seals at each end that act as the switch channeling vacuum to either of the output ports. These lip seals collapse over time letting the input vacuum blow by as you discribe. I have had success filing off the crimped end of the actuator rod and removing the dog bone piece. I then slipped a correctly sized O-ring into the dog bone piece at each end in such a way as to expand the lip seal. You can then re-install the piece backed with small thin washers to capture the o-rings and keep them from sliding back out. Re-crimp the rod end and you are good to go. I added a small dab of JB weld on the rod end just as a precaution.
I think there is a web site that discribes this whole proceedure with pictures but right now I don't remember the address.
Bullshark
By the way, I really like Photvettes ideas, they would be much more reliable.
Last edited by Bullshark; Jan 15, 2007 at 12:29 PM.
Yes, much more reliable. The stock vacuum actuator relay valves are the weak point in an otherwise robust system.
The 3-way valves I bought are the kind that are used inside McDonalds hamburger grills. If they can survive ten years in that envinoment, they ought to last forever in a C3.
Last edited by PhotoVette1; Jan 15, 2007 at 12:26 PM.
The relay is just a standard Bosch automotive relay.
You need two 3-way valves due to the fact that the original vacuum relay valves were 4-way valves--a 3-way valve would have no way to vent the non-operating side--4-way valves are much less common and much more expensive (somebody correct me if they find a cheap source of 12vdc 4-way valves.)
Thanks Bullshark, using the procedure you described I was able to repair my relay valve. I used a counterbore to remove the staked portion of the rod and did the o ring install. It's a good thing it worked as my new valve is on backorder with no delivery date. I wish I looked here before I placed my uncancelable order .
Warren
Jesse, this is the common failure mode for these vacuum relay valves. There is a dog bone like piece with lip seals at each end that act as the switch channeling vacuum to either of the output ports. These lip seals collapse over time letting the input vacuum blow by as you discribe. I have had success filing off the crimped end of the actuator rod and removing the dog bone piece. I then slipped a correctly sized O-ring into the dog bone piece at each end in such a way as to expand the lip seal. You can then re-install the piece backed with small thin washers to capture the o-rings and keep them from sliding back out. Re-crimp the rod end and you are good to go. I added a small dab of JB weld on the rod end just as a precaution.
I think there is a web site that discribes this whole proceedure with pictures but right now I don't remember the address.
Bullshark
By the way, I really like Photvettes ideas, they would be much more reliable.
I dissemble the relay and repaired it like you suggested and it works now.
I am still going to convert the system like Photo Vette 1 suggested.
My shed is getting pretty full with all the old original or original like, good condition parts that I have upgraded.
I guess I will add a couple more.
Thanks Bullshark, Photo Vette 1 and everyone else that provided input for all your help.
I will let you know how it turns out.
Last edited by Jc3vette; Jan 16, 2007 at 07:58 PM.
The aftermarket pieces are junk..>50% failure rate. The G.M. units are still available, though expensive. You can run both headlamps off of one, G.M. did it that way for a few years. The original units lasted a long time, I think the G.M. replacement units will as well.
PHOTOVETTE1 - I'm going to replace my headlight relay valves. I'd like to go electric, and your idea to use 3-way solenoid air valves is great. Could you post a schematic showing vacuum hose routing from vacuum reservoir to headlight actuators? It will certainly helpmany of us in the future. THANKS!
PHOTOVETTE1 - I'm going to replace my headlight relay valves. I'd like to go electric, and your idea to use 3-way solenoid air valves is great. Could you post a schematic showing vacuum hose routing from vacuum reservoir to headlight actuators? It will certainly helpmany of us in the future. THANKS!
I second that. I need to replace mine also and this sounds like what I would like to do.
Thanks, Daniel
Yep...I have a similar story...My Headlamps wouldnt close , after a couple days troubleshooting I ordered the relay from eklers, put it in and they still wouldnt close, so after a few hrs of testing the new relay I found it was defective, evidently they go bad on the shelf. Anyhow They sent me another one and it worked. Its a painful experience troubleshooting these C3 vacuum systems and eklers didnt help matters, by not doing a simple test to see what theyre selling works!
The alternative relays posted above look alot better than the pot metal and plastic, $70 jobs from Eklers.