HELP: Found C3 frame, help identifying issues
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
HELP: Found C3 frame, help identifying issues
I've been looking for a C3 frame for my '69 manual convertible for a LONG time and I finally found what looks like a screamin' deal from a guy that just wants it out of his garage. It's a '69 auto frame, and I'm looking for any easy checks I can do to be reasonably sure it's solid and straight. I have the frame "crash" sheets for dimensions, and I'll poke in the appropriate spots for rust, but is there anything else I should be doing? Is there an easy way to be sure of the application of the frame (P/N, etc.)?
Also, anyone brought one of these home in the back of their Chevy (of course
pickup? I was thinking I might be able to brace it in the back and up over the cab....or I need to get a flatbed - suggestions?
Man, I'm pumped about this - might be able to get my forever stalled project back on track!
Thanks!!
Also, anyone brought one of these home in the back of their Chevy (of course
pickup? I was thinking I might be able to brace it in the back and up over the cab....or I need to get a flatbed - suggestions?Man, I'm pumped about this - might be able to get my forever stalled project back on track!
Thanks!!
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
A real quick check for straightness is to measure the frame in an X pattern - LF to RR and RF to LR. The measurements should be the same.
Feel inside the frame to see how much rust scale is in there. Look especially in the differential crossmember. If you pull out scale that is 1/8" thick look out.
Bring a hammer - preferably one with a pointed end - and tap everywhere along the side rails and diff crossmember, especially around the trailing arm pockets and end plates. You should hear a nice metallic sound when you tap. A dull thud of hammer going through the metal is bad.
Here are a couple of pics of the original frame on my 72. The diff crossmember only had a couple of visible holes until I started hammering and the chunks of scale were as bad inside the frame as outside.
Rick B.
Feel inside the frame to see how much rust scale is in there. Look especially in the differential crossmember. If you pull out scale that is 1/8" thick look out.
Bring a hammer - preferably one with a pointed end - and tap everywhere along the side rails and diff crossmember, especially around the trailing arm pockets and end plates. You should hear a nice metallic sound when you tap. A dull thud of hammer going through the metal is bad.
Here are a couple of pics of the original frame on my 72. The diff crossmember only had a couple of visible holes until I started hammering and the chunks of scale were as bad inside the frame as outside.
Rick B.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 86
From: Rotonda FL
I brought mine home (300 mine trip) in the back of a rented GMC Savana van. It was tilted slightly on its side and stuck out the back, but no problem. With the benefit of a lowered tailgate you should have no problem hauling it home. HOPE THE DEAL WORKS OUT FOR YOU! GOOD LUCK!!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Guys, thanks for the advice and thoughts. I *think* I made a great score - can I ask you folks with an experienced eye to take a look at the frame pictures at http://www.warbird.org/photox to see if I've got what I think I've got? The pics are thumbnailed, so just click for a closeup.
The frame is ROCK SOLID with virtually no rust anywhere as far as I can see. There are some assorted dings and dents, but the only one that makes me a bit nervous is the lower a-arm mount on the driver's side; I'll post a close-up of that one.
Next step is to get the frame blasted and start prepping per the 1976 Chevy Power Manual...I've been saving that thing since I was 12!
The frame is ROCK SOLID with virtually no rust anywhere as far as I can see. There are some assorted dings and dents, but the only one that makes me a bit nervous is the lower a-arm mount on the driver's side; I'll post a close-up of that one.
Next step is to get the frame blasted and start prepping per the 1976 Chevy Power Manual...I've been saving that thing since I was 12!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
One project at a time :-D I've got some bedsides, just need to get it together
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2206636
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2206636
