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Man that hurt to read...white on black like that. Anyway, if you have a big runout problem I doubt it's the spindle. The rotors are the culprit more often than not. Pull them and have them turned at any Oreilly with a brake lathe. $10 each. If the spindle is warped...replace it. Older calipers should have either o-ring seals or lip seals installed or replaced with newer calipers that have been sleeved and sealed. I would leave the springs in if I were tracking down a problem like that, and solve it with new parts and true rotors.
Man that hurt to read...white on black like that. Anyway, if you have a big runout problem I doubt it's the spindle. The rotors are the culprit more often than not. Pull them and have them turned at any Oreilly with a brake lathe. $10 each. If the spindle is warped...replace it. Older calipers should have either o-ring seals or lip seals installed or replaced with newer calipers that have been sleeved and sealed. I would leave the springs in if I were tracking down a problem like that, and solve it with new parts and true rotors.
I don't really have a problem other than one leaking caliper. I just posted that paper because the writer says to remove the springs as they serve no purpose and can actually have a negative effect.
I don't really have a problem other than one leaking caliper. I just posted that paper because the writer says to remove the springs as they serve no purpose and can actually have a negative effect.
I think the springs keep the pads slightly pressed against the rotor so that when the fluid travels back to the master it doesn't suck the pads completely away from the rotor. That would start to cause problems when you eventually mashed the brake again. Probably be noisy too.
The spring is there to keep the pads lightly touching the rotors and eliminate the "Delay" that you would have if the pads were allowed to retract very far from the rotor. 1/32" might not sound like a lot, but multiply that times 16 pistons with an Inch and whatever bores and you can see that the fluid volume would be a lot, requiring multiple pumps on the brakes to get it to stop
I don't really have a problem other than one leaking caliper. I just posted that paper because the writer says to remove the springs as they serve no purpose and can actually have a negative effect.
I dont think GM engineers would put them in if that was the case... I wouldnt mess with my brakes like that without truly knowing the consequences....
When rebuilding my brakes the first time, some dozen years ago, I noted I allready had SS calipers.....by now I think everyone does, cna't imagine a shark that has moved anywhere in the last 25 years that DONT have them.....
having said that, I could see no reason to use the springs, and so I tossed them.....the lip seals worked fine for about 5 years.....so down here in Florida, I rebuilt with O ring pistons/seals from VBP, once again no springs....
just recently, wouldn't I know it, a driver's side front brake hose got locked up but good, woud not release the caliper....so another O ring kit, set of hoses, and rotors and pads.....
When I installed the O-ring kit, I also left the springs out. With the O-rings, they apparantly don't serve any purpose anymore because the O-rings are stiffer than the springs are strong.
The idea was to keep the pads slighlty touching to keep the pads warm in order to eliminate/evaporate nay water that could affect the first stopping effort. ( heavy rain etc ).
I don't have any problems for the 3rd summer now without the springs.
Leaving them in there with the O-ring kit will not harm anything either, I guess.
Before I installed the O-ring kit, I had rear brake problems with air. The spings and slight bearing wear caused air to enter through the lipseals. After installing the O-ring kit, leaving the spings out, the brake problem was solved. Drove like that for an other 2 summers before I installed new aft wheel bearings.
There are many brakes out there on other cars not using any springs and they still work fine. I think it is up top the individual to install them or leave them out, don't think that any method harms the safe operation of the system.
When I installed the O-ring kit, I also left the springs out. With the O-rings, they apparantly don't serve any purpose anymore because the O-rings are stiffer than the springs are strong.
Günther
You may need the sprint with lip type seal but I have never seen an o-ring type capiler with springs (Alcon, Wilwood, AP, US Brakes).
The business of omitting the springs came about with the advent ogf O-ring pistons...the springs would no longer serve their intended purpose of maintaining piston/pad contact........