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Brake Caliper Spring Elimination

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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:44 AM
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Default Brake Caliper Spring Elimination

What is the verdict on removing the springs from the calipers...good or bad idea?
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
What is the verdict on removing the springs from the calipers...good or bad idea?

I would think there could be no gain. The springs are there for a reason. Where did you get the idea to remove the springs?
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:53 AM
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I seen several comments about removing them on this forum and here's a paper that suggests eliminating them:

http://iotech.no/corvette/technical/corvette_brakes.htm
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
I seen several comments about removing them on this forum and here's a paper that suggests eliminating them:

http://iotech.no/corvette/technical/corvette_brakes.htm

Man that hurt to read...white on black like that. Anyway, if you have a big runout problem I doubt it's the spindle. The rotors are the culprit more often than not. Pull them and have them turned at any Oreilly with a brake lathe. $10 each. If the spindle is warped...replace it. Older calipers should have either o-ring seals or lip seals installed or replaced with newer calipers that have been sleeved and sealed. I would leave the springs in if I were tracking down a problem like that, and solve it with new parts and true rotors.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Man that hurt to read...white on black like that. Anyway, if you have a big runout problem I doubt it's the spindle. The rotors are the culprit more often than not. Pull them and have them turned at any Oreilly with a brake lathe. $10 each. If the spindle is warped...replace it. Older calipers should have either o-ring seals or lip seals installed or replaced with newer calipers that have been sleeved and sealed. I would leave the springs in if I were tracking down a problem like that, and solve it with new parts and true rotors.
I don't really have a problem other than one leaking caliper. I just posted that paper because the writer says to remove the springs as they serve no purpose and can actually have a negative effect.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
I don't really have a problem other than one leaking caliper. I just posted that paper because the writer says to remove the springs as they serve no purpose and can actually have a negative effect.

I think the springs keep the pads slightly pressed against the rotor so that when the fluid travels back to the master it doesn't suck the pads completely away from the rotor. That would start to cause problems when you eventually mashed the brake again. Probably be noisy too.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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The spring is there to keep the pads lightly touching the rotors and eliminate the "Delay" that you would have if the pads were allowed to retract very far from the rotor. 1/32" might not sound like a lot, but multiply that times 16 pistons with an Inch and whatever bores and you can see that the fluid volume would be a lot, requiring multiple pumps on the brakes to get it to stop
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
I don't really have a problem other than one leaking caliper. I just posted that paper because the writer says to remove the springs as they serve no purpose and can actually have a negative effect.
I dont think GM engineers would put them in if that was the case... I wouldnt mess with my brakes like that without truly knowing the consequences....

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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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When rebuilding my brakes the first time, some dozen years ago, I noted I allready had SS calipers.....by now I think everyone does, cna't imagine a shark that has moved anywhere in the last 25 years that DONT have them.....

having said that, I could see no reason to use the springs, and so I tossed them.....the lip seals worked fine for about 5 years.....so down here in Florida, I rebuilt with O ring pistons/seals from VBP, once again no springs....
just recently, wouldn't I know it, a driver's side front brake hose got locked up but good, woud not release the caliper....so another O ring kit, set of hoses, and rotors and pads.....

on the road again....

hey brakes, see you in 5 years...
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 03:22 PM
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Hi

When I installed the O-ring kit, I also left the springs out. With the O-rings, they apparantly don't serve any purpose anymore because the O-rings are stiffer than the springs are strong.
The idea was to keep the pads slighlty touching to keep the pads warm in order to eliminate/evaporate nay water that could affect the first stopping effort. ( heavy rain etc ).
I don't have any problems for the 3rd summer now without the springs.

Leaving them in there with the O-ring kit will not harm anything either, I guess.

Before I installed the O-ring kit, I had rear brake problems with air. The spings and slight bearing wear caused air to enter through the lipseals. After installing the O-ring kit, leaving the spings out, the brake problem was solved. Drove like that for an other 2 summers before I installed new aft wheel bearings.

There are many brakes out there on other cars not using any springs and they still work fine. I think it is up top the individual to install them or leave them out, don't think that any method harms the safe operation of the system.

Günther
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 03:47 PM
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Thanks for all the good input. Jud
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeRags
I dont think GM engineers would put them in if that was the case... I wouldnt mess with my brakes like that without truly knowing the consequences....


Unless they are hurting something why remove them?
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Unless they are hurting something why remove them?
Nah, going to put them back in when I rebuild the calipers next week.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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I seem to remember that it was a racing trick... want to say that 7 horsepower is lost keeping the pads ready.

Don't remember where I read it however.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ZD75blue
I seem to remember that it was a racing trick... want to say that 7 horsepower is lost keeping the pads ready.

Don't remember where I read it however.
I'll sacrifice that 7hp for my brakes to be ready when I need them...
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeRags
I'll sacrifice that 7hp for my brakes to be ready when I need them...

True dat my beer brewing buddy.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 01:36 AM
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Springs are there to prevent soft brake pedal from pad/piston knockback from rotors. I would leave them in if you like a firm brake pedal.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by WESCH
Hi

When I installed the O-ring kit, I also left the springs out. With the O-rings, they apparantly don't serve any purpose anymore because the O-rings are stiffer than the springs are strong.
Günther
You may need the sprint with lip type seal but I have never seen an o-ring type capiler with springs (Alcon, Wilwood, AP, US Brakes).

Any brake expert in the forum????

Pacha
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Pacha
You may need the sprint with lip type seal but I have never seen an o-ring type capiler with springs (Alcon, Wilwood, AP, US Brakes).

Any brake expert in the forum????

Pacha

Could it be a difference in the master that allows the springs to be taken out? Maybe the master keeps the pads pressed on the rotors.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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The business of omitting the springs came about with the advent ogf O-ring pistons...the springs would no longer serve their intended purpose of maintaining piston/pad contact........
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